In the courtyard, hanging fully on numerous wooden frames are strands of fine yarn-like mee sua, the scene comprising of thread curtain layers looking splendid and spectacular. Sitiawan is known as mini Fú Zhōu due to local inhabitants mainly originating from Fú Zhōu, China. In addition, mee sua is one of the most sentimental traditional Fú Zhōu foods, no matter during relatives and friends visit, or during celebrations and festivals, when a bowl of mee sua is served, not only taste is consumed, but also a wish for safety, happiness, and longetivity.
As times progress, the production of mee sua gradually converted into semi or fully motorised, eventually a bowl of genuine handmade Fú Zhōu mee sua became a rare indulgence. Mr Ding Hock Gong is one of the incredibly few masters who persists in the laborious craft of purely handmade mee sua.
Observing the 66-year-old Mr Ding carrying five clusters of noodles hanging on bamboo chopsticks in one go, firstly he inserts one end into the matching hole on the wooden rack, with his wife lending a hand in steadying the chopsticks; the other end is hooked in between his fingers, his body reclining backwards, by pulling strongly, the noodles will stretch into long fine strands, up to 5-6 metres in length. The seemingly simple action needs to be carried out smoothly to ensure good viscosity and mouthfeel of the mee sua, and could not be mastered within a short timeframe. The force employed in pulling not only needs to be powerful but also spread evenly, a bit lesser it fails, a bit more it breaks.
Nevertheless this is merely one out of almost ten procedures in producing handmade mee sua, other procedures include kneading the dough, twisting into strands, flouring the strands, hanging the strands onto bamboo chopsticks, stretching the noodles, and a few sequences of fermentation then proofing etc. The process is extremely time-consuming, being busy since before dawn breaks until the late afternoon, and could be said as an ingenious artisanal unique craft.
Mr Ding’s mastery in this craft is apprenticed to his father who migrated southwards from China to Malaysia. He grudgingly feels pity for the craft being almost extinct, however he respects that his children did not wish to succeed this laborious industry. Nevertheless Mr and Mrs Ding still enjoy the production of handmade mee sua in their courtyard, indicating that it is one of the ways to exercise, living a relaxed life in this rustic village.
Text: Daniel Lim & Pua Hui Wen
有你 UNI Production
Producer : Mok Yii Chek
Coordinator : Daniel Lim
Cinematographer : Amelia Lim / Evon Pang
Video Editor : Amelia Lim
Music : Breakfast In Bed from Felt Music
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