The nutty aroma of peanuts, paired with the rich aroma of lard, and a thick mouthfeel, the almost extinct lard cake was a must-have specialty dessert in Fú Zhōu banquets. Within 15 minutes by car from Bukit Pelanduk, at the rear of a sky blue wooden cottage in the village of Tanah Merah Site C, Mr Chong Teck Fong (transliteration) could be sighted busying himself in the kitchen, attentively crafting traditional lard cake. Lard cake, also known as Manchuria cake, is a Fú Zhōu treat made from a mixture of lard, peanuts, sugar, and flour. It is also commonly found in Sitiawan, Perak and Sibu, Sarawak, however the preparation methods and mouthfeel may differ.
In the mid-18th century, the Manchuria Eight Banners army were garrisoned at Fú Zhōu, leaving a plethora of snacks and treats, among them is lard cake, which was rumoured to be a royal dessert. Migrating from Yún Nán, China to Malaysia, Mr Chong’s father mastered the skills of making lard cake in his hometown, even though he set up a swine farm in Malaysia, he continues the craft in supplying banquets, gaining fame due to the familiar native birthplace taste.
The process of making lard cake is complicated and time-consuming, stressing on the quality of ingredients as well as the skills of the chef, requiring at least two days to complete. The ingredients include lard, flour, sugar, peanuts, sesame, and egg, slowly mixed together, poured into a wooden mould, and then steamed. Nowadays, the production of lard cake found in other regions rely on machinery, even substituting lard with vegetable oils, resulting in a shriveled oily cake. Reluctant to affect the mouthfeel and quality of lard cake due to the crude production process, Mr Chong persists in genuine handcrafting, without involving machinery.
First of all, lard is scraped off the pork flesh, cut into small cubes, stir fry and season, mix evenly, add in flour, rub into a paste, then add in sugar to maintain a thick mouthfeel. Peanut is the most laborious ingredient involved, requiring selection of suitably sized peanuts, ensuring the peanuts are evenly heated during stir frying, then pick out peanuts with the same cookedness and colour to crush. These procedures take a lot of patience to be completed smoothly.
The advice of Mr Chong’s late father on how to make lard cake still rings in his ears, especially how to determine the suitable cube size when cutting the lard. As Mr Chong starts to learn making lard cakes in his middle-aged years, dispersed together with the lard cake aroma wafts are strands of discreet yet earnest love from his father, hugging him in an embrace. Time flies without leaving any trace, reminiscence and missing the family becomes more apparent. On the annual mark of his father’s death day, Mr Chong always makes lard cake as a tribute to his late father.
The wooden moulds made by Mr Chong himself have removable corners to ease taking out the end product of lard cakes; underneath the wooden pane are small holes to eliminate excess fat so that the mouthfeel would not be too oily. The length of steaming duration depends on the volume, as well as affecting the oiliness, where extending the duration may eliminate more excess fat, however steaming for too long will cause dryness to the lard cake. As the piping hot lard cake is removed from the steaming pot, it needs to be cooled down to set before cutting into inch-size cubes, so that it won’t stick to the knife.
The 60-year-old Mr Chong is the only person in his family to master the skill of making lard cakes, besides worrying about the continuity of lard cakes, he is also uneasy about people lacking the will to learn and persistence in enduring the strenuous traditional making process, therefore he has not passed on the skill to anyone yet. As tides of time sweep through, will this centuries-old legacy regain its glory?
Text: Daniel Lim & Pua Hui Wen
有你 UNI Production
Producer : Mok Yii Chek
Coordinator : Daniel Lim
Cinematographer : Amelia Lim / Evon Pang
Video Editor : Evon Pang
Production Assistant : Michael Lerk
Music : The Path from Serenity Studio – YouTube
COPYRIGHTS 2019 ECHINOIDEA SDN BHD