Around 3AM, when the surroundings are enclosed in darkness, and most people are still sound asleep, the five-foot-way of a double-storey shophouse in Kampung Simee, Ipoh, is brightly lit. A few white-haired ladies are either seated in front of a rectangular charcoal stove or shuffling between two rows of round charcoal stoves (ten in total), busy making traditional Chinese New Year cookies. The aroma of cookies wafts alongside the red-hot smoldering charcoal, music plays from the radio in the corner, sometimes interrupted by lively chatter. They are busy as bees from before sunrise until sunset.
This double-storey shophouse has been around since Kampung Simee was founded, acting as a grocer and home to four generations of the Low family, where all members of the family would now gather. Ranked seventh out of ten sisters in the third generation, Low Siew Tiong sparked an interest in cookie-making from a tender age. Each year, as the festive season approached, she would help neighbours to make cookies after school. After becoming an adult, she suggested to her sisters that they all work together to make Chinese New Year cookies for sale. Unexpectedly, they kept it up for over forty years. Before getting married, they all lived under the same roof. After getting married, during the two months preceding Chinese New Year until New Year’s Eve, they would make a special effort to return to their old home, where they busied themselves with their annual cookie-making.
The charcoal stoves and cast-iron moulds resurfaced from the storeroom to make mouthwatering kuih kapit, egg rolls, and Indonesian style cookies. The inspiration for Indonesian style cookies was a local delicacy they tasted during a trip decades ago where they visited friends in Indonesia. Upon returning home, they come up with their own version: fry a thin round pancake, fill it with peanuts or meat floss, and fold it into a square. Egg rolls are the bestseller, coming in two varieties: hollow or filled with meat floss (inspired by a trip to Hatyai). Kuih kapit, Indonesian style cookies, and egg rolls may appear similar, but the makeup of each batter is different. The Low sisters stick with the same ingredients’ ratio, without making adjustments to suit consumers. They insist on using charcoal, as it instills a unique flavor which consumers love.
Kuih kapit is baked using the rectangular charcoal stove. The sisters work closely together, handling 20 moulds at the same time. From baking, folding, to packing, each step is carried out in an orderly manner. There are no fixed roles, they can swap with each other anytime. The round charcoal stoves are for Indonesian style cookies and egg rolls, which Low Siew Tiong can single-handedly take care of five at a time. The Low sisters, all of whom have genetically white hair, bustle around the shophouse and the five-foot-way. Apart from charcoal-baked cookies, they also make deep-fried honeycomb cookies, and the older sisters are in charge of oven-baked cookies, totalling up to over twenty types.
The making of cookies is not sophisticated, but the process is gruelling, especially as they get older, they endure sore limbs after work. The Low sisters could only accept orders according to their physical capacity, estimate the production time, and close orders one month before the Chinese New Year, focus on completing orders, then wrap up work to enjoy the holidays. In previous years, they used to work right up to New Year’s Eve, and the siblings pooled money to dine out together for the reunion dinner. What they look forward to the most is on the first day of the Chinese New Year, all members of the family gather at their old home and take family photos.
Year in, year out, the making of Chinese New Year cookies became a family ritual, where family members and neighbours help each other out, sit together, chat, and bond. Handmade traditional Chinese New Year cookies, whether gifted to relatives and friends, served to guests, or enjoyed by the family, carry a legacy of warmth and festive spirit.
有你 UNI Production
Producer : Daniel Lim
Cinematographer : Amelia Lim / Michael Lerk
Drone : Daniel Lim
Video Editor : Amelia Lim
Copywriter : Pua Hui Wen
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