Seong Ying Chai Artisanal Bakery

Pastries are not just a type of food; they are also an essential part of life rituals. Whether for celebrations or important festivals, pastries are often given as gifts. In Chinese culinary culture, pastries are said to have originated during the Han Dynasty and was a general term for wheat-based products. Depending on the region and heritage, the methods of making pastries, their flavors, and shapes vary. After early generations of Chinese migrants settled in Malaysia, the tradition of Chinese pastries, or “Han bing”, became diluted through time and cultural integration. However, Seong Ying Chai, a longstanding establishment at Jalan Sultan in Kuala Lumpur, continues to keep the legacy of Chinese pastries alive.

The exact founding year of Seong Ying Chai is not clearly documented, but it can be traced back to a business license issued in 1935. In its early years, it was a Shunde cuisine restaurant, famous as one of the “Four Greatest Restaurants of Petaling Street alongside Bunn Choon, Seng Kee, and Yook Woo Hin. All members of the staff underwent rigorous training to master various skills, from cooking and pastry-making to performing arts, ensuring that everyone is a capable all-rounder. After the restaurant closed down a few years ago, the third-generation heir, Lee Kim Fook (Leonard), decided to shift the focus to the production and cultural preservation of Chinese pastries. The three most popular categories being bridal pastries, mooncakes, and new year cookies.

Seong Ying Chai keenly promote bridal pastries due to their profound significance. In the traditional betrothal ceremony, the groom prepares six or twelve gifts to the bride’s family, bridal pastries occupy two of them. This serves two purposes: first, to express the groom’s gratitude to the bride’s parents for raising her; in the past they were transported by carrying poles or bullock carts, the larger the amount of pastries, the greater the sincerity. Second, the bride’s family distributes them to relatives and friends to announce the joyous occasion of the marriage. The bride’s family also prepares return gifts for the groom’s family: for the pair of large pastries featuring dragon and phoenix designs, one is kept by the bride’s family and one is gifted back to the groom’s family; half of the small boxed cookies for distributing among family and friends also given in return to the groom’s family.

Mooncakes are the signature product of Seong Ying Chai, especially during the Mid-Autumn Festival, when the Cantonese have the custom of moon worship. Mooncakes were originally offerings to the moon, later evolved into premium festive gifts. In addition to traditional Cantonese mooncakes, Seong Ying Chai was the first shop in Kuala Lumpur to introduce Hong Kong-style snow skin mooncakes. In the 1950s, the second generation (Leonard’s aunt) learned from a master in Hong Kong and then developed their own unique flavors that are still cherished today. Many longtime customers, even after moving away from Petaling Street, still make a special trip to buy them before the festival.

In addition to mooncakes, “Gong Zai Bing” (mooncake biscuits) are also popular during the Mid-Autumn Festival. Made from leftover mooncake dough and fillings, mooncake biscuits come in various shapes, from deities to animals, which are attractive to children. In the era when Kuala Lumpur’s economy had not yet flourished, the average family could not afford expensive mooncakes, while mooncake biscuits were relatively affordable. The handmade piglet pastries are put into bamboo cages and hung high from the shop’s beams, and customers must tiptoe to cut them down.

With modern development, the significance of Chinese pastries and associated customs has waned, and the values and functions of traditional festivals have gradually changed. Having rooted itself in Kuala Lumpur for nearly a century, Seong Ying Chai carries the taste memories of generations, conveying emotions and blessings through Chinese pastries while continuing a rich cultural legacy.

[Set of Six Gifts] Traditional betrothal ceremony  

  • Dragon and Phoenix pastries
  • Small cookies in boxes
  • Rice crackers
  • Ingredients for making tangyuan (sweet glutinous rice balls)
  • Gold jewellry  
  • Dragon and Phoenix candles

[Bridal pastries fun facts]

  • The bride cannot eat her own bridal pastries, as this symbolizes consuming her own good fortune.  
  • The filling of bridal pastries is significant: red date paste mixed with pine nuts symbolizes sweetness and convey a wish for fertility; salted egg yolks should not be included as they imply marrying due to pregnancy.

[Gong Zai Bing fun facts]  

  • The piglet pastries in bamboo cages symbolizes prosperity, and are hung high in the shop, customers must tiptoe to cut them down, a gesture that carries a wish for continuous success.

有你 UNI Production
Producer : Daniel Lim
Cinematographer : Amelia Lim / Michael Lerk
Drone : Daniel Lim
Video Editor : Amelia Lim
Copywriter : Pua Hui Wen

COPYRIGHTS 2024 ECHINOIDEA SDN BHD

Bee Tai Bak in Lunas

Everything is still and quiet in the wee hours, except for a slight drizzle and gushes of cold breeze gently swaying the coconut trees. Upon driving into the narrow path among the coconut trees in the heart of Lunas, a few wooden houses are scattered around, of which only one is brightly lit. The kitchen is filled with steam, a world apart from the cold outside. A large pot of boiling water sits on top of the wood stove. A stainless steel perforated metal mesh encased in a wooden frame is placed across the pot, a pair of seemingly heat-resistant hands work deftly; the right hand kneads the half-cooked, thick rice batter through the sieve, while the left hand retrieves the cooked, snow-white rice noodles – Bee Tai Bak.

Bee Tai Bak is a term transliterated from the Hokkien dialect. It is a type of noodle that is round and slender, tapering to a fine point at the end. In the Minnan region, Bee Tai Bak is typically served as a sweet cold dish, while in Singapore and Malaysia, it is more commonly found as a savory hot dish, prepared either dry or in soup. The chewy and bouncy Bee Tai Bak is often tossed in a fragrant sauce or submerged in a delicious broth, accompanied by fish balls, dark sauce minced pork, barbecued pork in slices as well as chunks, with chili sauce adding an extra kick.

As the first rays of dawn illuminate the sky, customers begin to arrive, conscientiously parking their vehicles under the coconut trees to avoid obstructing others. Uncle Teh Guan Cheng and his wife Aunty Koh move from the kitchen inside the house to the stall in the back, busily serving bowl after bowl of Bee Tai Bak. Customers enjoy a hearty meal of steaming Rice Taimu in the soft morning light, plenishing energy to kick start the day. By 9:30 AM, the sunlight grows stronger, and those going to school or work have left, prompting Uncle Teh and his wife to close up.

Closing after merely three and a half hours of operation does not mean they can return to bed for extra sleep; instead, they seize the time to head out to purchase fresh groceries, preparing ingredients for the next day. Fresh pork needs to be marinated for several hours before being processed into dark sauce minced pork and barbecued pork. Barbecued pork is made from pork loin, which is the tenderest, best, and most expensive part of the pig. The chili sauce, which is free for customers to consume, is entirely handmade—from chopping the chili to simmering two large pots of aromatic sauce, each step is handled with delicate care.

This home-based Bee Tai Bak stall has stood in the same location for over 60 years without relocating. The previous owner, Mr Tan, ran it for 23 years, sourcing fish balls from Uncle Teh’s mother-in-law. Upon learning that Mr Tan planned to retire and sell the business, she suggested her son-in-law, who was a vegetable farmer, try his hand at it. After about six months of observation and research, Uncle Teh officially took over at the end of 1986, moving his family from Tasek Gelugor to operate this food stall in Lunas. Day in and day out, he and his wife work diligently, paying meticulous attention to each step from selecting and preparing ingredients to cutting and cooking, embodying the spirit of craftsmanship.

In this unassuming township, Uncle Teh and his wife embrace a leisurely lifestyle, living in simplicity while making each day busy and fulfilling. Before long, their young children are grown up and helping them out. The humble noodles from this village home under the coconut trees may one day succumb to the tide of development and eventually disappear, and now they seem closer to vanishing than ever.

有你 UNI Production
Producer : Daniel Lim
Cinematographer : Amelia Lim / Michael Lerk
Drone : Daniel Lim
Video Editor : Amelia Lim
Copywriter : Pua Hui Wen

COPYRIGHTS 2024 ECHINOIDEA SDN BHD

Rattan in Gurun: Ban Lee

Raw rattan vines grow in the tropical rainforests, and require meticulous processing to be made into furniture. Rattan furniture maker Chiau Tai Huat, born and bred in Gurun, has been working in the industry for decades. Throughout his career, he worked in several different places before returning to his hometown and set up his own shop – Ban Lee. At 78 years old, he is still using his strong physique and skillful hands to craft all sorts of rattan furniture and household goods, at the same time accepting custom order requests.

Gurun is the second largest Chinese new village in Kedah, with around 300 households, the majority of them being TeoChew. Agriculture used to be the main local economy, later on there came manufacturing and industrialisation. In the early days, there were limited furniture options, almost every household used rattan furniture, which was inexpensive and of good quality. The rattan furniture industry in Gurun was most prosperous from the 1960s to the 1980s. Compared with wooden sofas or leather sofas, rattan sofas are light, cool and not easily damaged, therefore especially popular.

The first rattan furniture shop in Gurun, Eng Thye Lee, used to be an ironsmith shop ran by Chiau Tai Huat’s father. Chiau’s elder brother, who was unwilling to learn the trade, went outstation and learned to make rattan furniture instead, thus transforming the business but still operating under the same trade name. Back then he employed a dozen or so apprentices, providing livelihood for young dropouts. After mastering the craft, they would start their own rattan workshops at home in the new village. During peak seasons, Eng Thye Lee would even outsource some projects to them.

Chiau Tai Huat learnt to make rattan furniture from his elder brother, and became his aide in Eng Thye Lee. After a while, he went around Sungai Petani, Kulim, Yan, Alor Setar, and Kota Bharu, Kelantan, working in various rattan shops and gained much experience. He then returned to his hometown to set up his own shop, and took great pains to reclaim a shoplot that his father rented to an Indian barber. Ban Lee officially opened in 12th May 1986, with beautiful hopes of “prosperous” and “everything goes well”.

A rattan stick with a diameter of an inch or so does not change colour when burned, but gradually soften under the high temperature. Bend it while it is hot, and it will retain the shape when it cools down. To achieve a specific curvature, it may be necessary to repeat heating and apply force several times. Over time, the surface of the rattan furniture will appear shiny due to being moisturised by sebum, no maintenance is required. Even if the rattan strips wear out, Uncle Chiau provides repair services.

With the rapid rise of industrialisation around the 1990s, there were more furniture choices at affordable prices, demand for handmade rattan furniture decreased. Moreover, the government enacted strict laws to control forest harvesting, resulting in skyrocketing raw material prices. As things went from bad to worse, most rattan furniture makers had no choice but to switch careers, only a handful remain in Gurun new village. Till this day, Ban Lee and Eng Thye Lee are still standing on the old street. 

Rattan furniture provides excellent ventilation and is durable, suitable for both indoor and outdoor use, its natural colour exudes a simple and tranquil atmosphere. Furniture made from raw materials in local tropical rainforests has evolved from crude products in the early days to fashionable artisanal crafts, albeit less in demand. Uncle Chiau is optimistic about the future of rattan furniture, and he is glad to see his son taking interest in inheriting the trade. With passion, perseverance, and patience, one will manage to make a living.

有你 UNI Production
Producer : Daniel Lim
Cinematographer : Amelia Lim / Michael Lerk
Drone : Daniel Lim
Video Editor : Amelia Lim
Copywriter : Pua Hui Wen

COPYRIGHTS 2024 ECHINOIDEA SDN BHD

Orang Orang Drum Theatre

The drum’s origins can be traced back thousands of years to ancient civilizations across the globe, in a wide variety of shapes and sizes. Drums were used in military communications and warfare, religious rituals, as well as dance and music performances. A drum produces simple sounds: “dum dum” by hitting the drumhead and “da da” by hitting the rim. Even with varying tempos, rhythms, and force, it does not suffice to express emotional changes. Orang Orang Drum Theatre takes drumming to another level by combining drums with vocals, movement, theatrical aspects and ethnic musical instruments, as well as traditional folk songs, into their works. The integration of theatrical expression and music’s ability to convey emotions nonverbally turns drummers from percussion accompaniment into performers enacting stories onstage.

Splitting the Chinese character “众” (crowd) into three “人” (people) side by side symbolizes everyone is equal, and it can also be interpreted as “There is always someone that one can learn from among a trio”. Orang Orang Drum Theatre was founded in 2013 by Boyz Chew and Zyee Liew, with the core belief that performing arts is people-oriented, thus striving to break down barriers between performing arts and the audience. The essence of performing arts lies in fostering connections, expressing and eliciting thoughts and feelings at the same time, and cannot exist without involving people. Their ultimate goal is to make performing arts accessible to all, to create resonance between people, and to create shared memories.

Boyz and Zyee realised that performing arts encompass a wide range of forms and styles, despite their started out from 24 Festive Drums instead of receiving formal performing arts education. By keeping their minds open, apart from being proficient in drumming, they explore different possibilities of narratives and expression methods, and collaborate with artists from various fields. Whenever they perform abroad, they sought out local folklores, musical instruments, and folk songs, collecting inspiration to fuel creativity. They are also deeply observant, finding creative themes in the mundane everyday life, then they tell stories, portray characters, and convey ideas by the symbolic use of props, costumes, and gestures.

The productions of Orang Orang Drum Theatre appeal to a broad audience, be it an international stage performance or casually engage with residents of rural villages. The major difference between the two is that in a relatively enclosed space, one can be distraction-free and focus on the performance; on the streets, one needs to cope with all sorts of situations in order to perform. They also organise community percussion workshops using plastic buckets and sticks, leading everyone into a world of non-verbal communication with only beats and rhythms, where they can sway instinctively and relax their bodies and minds.

24 Festive Drums, which is derived from traditional drums, combined with various theatrical elements, led to the creation of “Drum Theatre”, where multiple dimensions of creativity come together with an overarching theme and multi-sensory expression. Performing arts and culture are vital sources of nourishment for our souls, enriching the quality of our lives. Orang Orang Drum Theatre dedicate their hard work to pass on the multi-cultural performing arts of Malaysia.

有你 UNI Production
Producer : Daniel Lim
Cinematographer : Amelia Lim / Michael Lerk
Drone : Daniel Lim
Video Editor : Amelia Lim
文案 Copywriter : Pua Hui Wen

COPYRIGHTS 2024 ECHINOIDEA SDN BHD

Wong Mee Coffee Stall

At 4.30AM, night owls have not yet fallen asleep, the city has not yet woken up, street lights illuminate dust that has not yet been kicked up by traffic. A MPV drove slowly into the dark alley behind the Public Bank building on Jalan Tun HS Lee and pulled over aside. Uncle Wong Hoong Hon got out of the car and unlocked the fence of “Wong Mee Coffee Stall”. This small plot accommodated his daily necessities. Uncle Wong turned on the lights, washed the cups and plates, boiled the drinking water, and then set up tables and chairs on the roadside. With everything in place, he sat on the stool in front of the stall, looking at the brightening sky and waiting for customers.

The rosy morning glow peeked out shyly from behind the tall buildings, and the alleys began to crowd with people. Around 7.30AM, customers flock in, filling the empty seats. Neighbourhood residents came for their daily drinks, office workers hurriedly left after eating, and travellers from afar took a rest. Long-term close friends with graying hair on their temples gathered here as usual. Everyone smoked, chatted, and spent the morning laughing and joking. When Uncle Wong’s finally made it through the morning rush, he joined them until other customers show up.

The rich coffee and tea has maintained the livelihood of Uncle Wong Hoong Hon and his father Wong Mee for two generations, and the fragrant aroma lingers in their ordinary lives. Wong Mee started a coffee and tea-making business decades ago in a small shack not far from the current location, and his wife and children helped deliver it to customers in nearby shops. The busiest times every day were the tea breaks at 10AM and 3PM. Wong Hoong Hon, who was still young at that time, had to bring a tray laden with drinks and send to a dozen shops. When he grew up, he went out to work, but when his father passed away in 1987, he resigned and returned home to run the coffee stall with his mother.

Despite having relocated about 30 years ago, Wong Mee Coffee Stall has always been tucked in the alley, just a stone’s throw away from the bustling streets. The current location of the stall was provided by a regular customer, who hopes that Uncle Wong Hoong Hon will continue to operate the coffee stall as a gathering place for the neighbourhood community. The signboard handwritten by his father on red paper was damaged by rain, but he kept his father’s name and printed it on an acrylic signboard. At this point, Uncle Wong was running the business alone. Due to lack of manpower, he could not continue to deliver, so customers had to dine in. He also sells some light bites, such as bread, eggs, bao and dimsum. Earlier on, the menu included chee cheong fun and fried noodles homecooked by his wife, but was omitted after MCO.

Traditional coffee and tea making is not about technique, but achieving a balanced flavour between the base coffee or tea and condensed milk. This is what Uncle Wong surmised from decades of practical experience, and he can tell the difference at a glance. Cups of unpretentious fragrant coffee or tea capture the taste buds of customers and became a daily part of life, therefore customers willingly come back to Uncle Wong. He is reluctant to see his old friends break up, and he will continue to work until he is no longer able to.

As Uncle Wong Honghan is getting older and lacks physical strength, his operating hours from 5AM to 8PM were shortened to 12PM. Whenever passing by this alley in the afternoon, the space where the seats were placed is full of cars, and the stall is fenced up tightly. The scene in the morning is like a dream and a fantasy that has never really happened. Want to have a cup of tea in this alley? Please be early tomorrow.

有你 UNI Production
Producer : Daniel Lim
Cinematographer : Amelia Lim / Michael Lerk
Drone : Daniel Lim
Video Editor : Amelia Lim
Copywriter : Pua Hui Wen

COPYRIGHTS 2023 ECHINOIDEA SDN BHD

Ho Yoke Kee : Traditional Cantonese Candies

Traditional Cantonese candies embody ancient wisdom. They preserve the shape and taste of the original fruit, albeit more exquisite. Before the invention of the refrigerator, slicing fruits and vegetables to boil with sugar and then air-dry could extend their shelf life without causing wastage and make them more delicious. The Cantonese use homophones to give candies auspicious meanings, making them a must-have festive snack during Chinese New Year. Candied coconuts mean three generations living together; candied ginger slices mean longevity; candied green peppers mean attracting wealth; candied carrots mean a house full of gold and jade; candied lotus seeds mean having children; and candied horseshoes mean getting things done successfully. Traditional Cantonese candies are also used in worship as offerings to welcome wealth and blessings, hence also known as fortune candies or five-color candies.

In Petaling Street, ​​Kuala Lumpur, which used to be a dominant Chinese settlement, only Ho Yoke Kee, a long-established street vendor that has been operating for decades, is still manually making and selling traditional Cantonese candies. On one side of the stall is a steamer filled with a hill-like pile of various rice dumplings, whereas on the other side is a wide selection of traditional Cantonese candies. From 6AM to 6PM, mother-in-law and daughter-in-law duo Yap Nyat Foong and Chong Yoke Yean take turns looking after the stall, while the third-generation successor Ho Chee Keong is in charge of preparations.

Ho Yoke Kee was originally named Ho Dui Kee. The founder, Ho Dui, came to Petaling Street from Dongguan, Guangdong, China in the first half of the 20th century and settled down in Petaling Street, selling lotus roots and other fruits and vegetables to make a living. Facing the unsold lotus roots, fruits and vegetables, he came up with the idea of making them into candies according to the traditional method of his hometown. Later, his son Ho Yoke and his daughter-in-law Yap Nyat Foong inherited this skill and worked together. When the stall had enough manpower, they expanded goods variety and started selling dessert soups and rice dumplings.

Although they have been street vendors in the same location for many years, they were unlicensed and had to evade the city council’s frequent crackdowns. They successfully obtained a license in the 1980s, and the stall was renamed Ho Yoke Kee, still in use today.They mainly sell rice dumplings and only a few types of candies. As Chinese New Year approaches, the variety of candies increased to more than a dozen types. During peak business period, the original stall sells rice dumplings, and they set up another stall selling in Cantonese candies for customers to buy by catties. Preparations must be done one to two months in advance in order to have sufficient supply.

Upon entering the kitchen, all the steps, from preparing the ingredients, such as peeling and splitting the coconut, grating and cutting the coconut meat, are all done by hand. The prepared ingredients need to be blanched to sterilize and remove impurities. Sugar is poured into the heated copper wok to boil into syrup to coat the ingredients. The most difficult variable to control during the cooking process is the heat. The viscosity of the syrup needs to be checked from time to time, as well as stirring constantly to avoid burning. Finally, the sugar-coated ingredients are placed in a bamboo tray and allowed to dry naturally until crystallization forms on the surface, which takes three days to complete.

Ho Chee Keong grew up living in Petaling Street, helping his parents at the stall, and was nicknamed “Rice Dumpling Keong” by the neighbours. After his father passed away, his mother struggled to take care of the family livelihood single-handedly. He made good use of the skills he had learned from childhood to help shoulder the burden of supporting the family, and gradually found an interest in his daily work. His grandfather Ho Dui passed away a few years before he was born, but the art of making Cantonese candies has been passed down from generation to generation. Only in recent years he made some adjustments to reduce sugar, in line with the modern concept of healthy eating.

The process of making rice dumplings and Cantonese-style candies is cumbersome, time-consuming and labor-intensive, but Mr Ho does not feel that life is hard, because the entire family work together and the days are filled with the fragrance of rice dumplings and the sweetness of candies.

有你 UNI Production
Producer : Daniel Lim
Cinematographer : Amelia Lim / Michael Lerk
Drone : Daniel Lim
Video Editor : Amelia Lim
Copywriter : Pua Hui Wen

COPYRIGHTS 2024 ECHINOIDEA SDN BHD

Ripples: Yap Hong Ngee at 80 – Looking Ahead

A touch of red at the end of the golden-green spiral sparked curiosity in the sparrow and it hopped over to take a closer look. Mr Yap Hong Ngee’s Chinese ink paintings are bright and funny, reflecting his inner child. In conjunction with his 80th birthday, “Ripples: Yap Hong Ngee at 80 – Looking Ahead” was held at the Oriental Art & Cultural Center in Kuala Lumpur from 4th to 12th November 2023, where 138 paintings were put on exhibition, both old friends and new ones were welcomed to meet and exchange views.

Three years ago, the epidemic hit and disrupted our peaceful lives. Mr Yap likened it to a huge stone thrown into the lake of the heart, causing ripples in the form of concentric circles. When he stayed at home in compliance with the movement control order and was bored, he expressed his feelings through his paintbrush, which resulted in a series of works. Later, when he planned this exhibition, he used ripples as the theme to connect three recurring elements in the paintings: stones, sparrows, and flowers.

Mr Yap draws inspiration from trivial things in life, blends personal experience into the paper, and imbues them with deep meaning. Stones symbolize solidity and permanence; sparrows are lively and chirping; flowers and plants symbolize the changing seasons, fragile and fleeting life. The painting that seems to be completed in three or two strokes within moments showcases the artist’s skills accumulated after years of experience. The subjects of the paintings are easy to understand, and the inscriptions are made up of straightforward or inherently funny words, which not only attract the attention of the audience, but also trigger them to think and explore.

Looking at a painting from different perspectives will give you different views. Although Mr Yap has been famous for many years, he has always remained humble and believes that his works do not need to be perfect, just as his conduct in life should be moderate. He does not seek to fill up the picture when he paints, as he believes that there is the possibility of development if there is space, leaving blank spaces for the audience to fill in. In Mr Yap’s opinion, if a painting can attract people to stop and take a second look, reflect on it and make their own assumptions, it is a great piece of work that touches people’s hearts and resonates.

Despite being elderly, Mr Yap still looks forward to the future with a positive attitude. In conjunction with his 80th birthday, this exhibition serves to invite people from all walks of life to celebrate his continuous efforts in art and painting. He set a personal goal to hold at least one art exhibition every year to motivate himself to stay active Having been painting for more than sixty years, Mr Yap has never intended to retire. Even if he can no longer hold a paintbrush, he will find another way to express and present his artwork. Perhaps this is why his paintings always reveal a tenacious vitality and contain strong emotions.

Ripples encircle stones, sparrows and flowers. One after another, color and ink paintings gather the ordinary bits and pieces of life to create meaning. Paintings notwithstanding, Mr Yap Hong Ngee’s excellent advice is “be yourself”. Experience and cherish every moment in order to lead a fulfilling and happy life.

有你 UNI Production
Producer : Daniel Lim
Cinematographer : Amelia Lim / Michael Lerk
Drone : Daniel Lim
Video Editor : Amelia Lim
Copywriter : Pua Hui Wen

COPYRIGHTS 2023 ECHINOIDEA SDN BHD

Kim Hock Bakery

The morning mist gradually dispersed under the gentle sun rays, at the same time in Ayer Tawar New Village, thick white smoke slowly rose from the rear end of a double-storey wooden house next to the community garden. Locals are familiar with this sight, knowing that it is not a fire, but a sign that Kim Hock Bakery is open today. The second generation owner, Hwa Kia Hwa, piled rubber wood and dried coconut shells into the wood-fired oven, then lit the fire at 9A.M. for four hours of pre-heating.

The oven stands at two metres high, three metres wide and three metres deep. It is built with red mud bricks and cement. Its inner insulation layer is made of heat storage materials such as broken glass and coarse salt. Firewood is kindled within the oven, the temperature rose, allowing the oven walls to absorb and store the heat. After cleaning out the remaining ash, the residual heat is used for baking. Unlike ordinary ovens with adjustable heating elements, it is heated only once to sustain the whole day, which is only enough to bake a few batches of bread.

Hwa Kia Hwa grew up surrounded by the bread aroma, and helped his parents after school. After graduating from high school in 1968, he intended to pursue other careers, but at his father’s request, he inherited the family business and learned traditional bread baking skills. His father passed away in 1979, his mother continued to work until she breathed her last, Hwa Kia Hwa and his three younger sisters (Puah Yuat Mooi, Puah Guat Soon, and Puah Juan Nam) jointly manage the bakery for decades. It is still a family-run production, without employing workers. Hwa’s son Alvin worked outside for some years before choosing to return and take over as the third generation successor.

The wood-fired oven is difficult to handle due to inability to measure or control the temperature, relying on accumulation of experience to gauge the temperature and to predict how long the baking process may take. Puah Juan Nam uses a long-handled wooden peel to transfer proofed bread into the oven, fully utilizing the space to neatly arrange 42 baking pans. When baking is completed, she has to endure high temperatures to slowly and skilfully removing the breads. She alone is able to master this important task, hence nicknamed “The Oven’s Nanny”. 

Due to limited capacity and heat efficiency, Kim Hock Bakery bakes four rounds of bread daily, at a fixed production rate using 75 kilograms of flour plus other ingredients. In early days, bread dough is mixed by hand, a toilsome task. In the 1970s, a custom-made mixer was installed to ease the burden. The remaining procedures are still carried out manually, such as stir-frying desiccated coconut fillings on the wood-fired stove, bread shaping, placing onto baking trays to proof, inserting fillings and packaging. Such is their way of bread-making. The best-sellers are Hainanese white loaf, coconut buns, and red bean paste buns. Recently, new items such as pumpkin buns and muffins are also introduced.

Apart from regular customers and occasional tourists, Kim Hock Bakery established long-term business relationships with traditional coffee shops, mamak stalls, and traditional grocers in the vicinity. In the past, the founder had to deliver breads on a bicycle, riding more than ten miles in distance. It was not until they acquired a car in the 1970s that the delivery process became easier. Roti Kok has a high market demand, which they find it hard to meet despite daily production of minimum 200 packs.

From the 1980s to the 1990s, tight market competitions caused sales to plummet. Fortunately the siblings work together hand in glove to overcome the difficulties. Trending food nostalgia coupled with media exposure drove up demand for traditional bread. Although the wood-fired oven has become a signature attraction, Kim Hock Bakery now faces another challenge: firewood shortage. What once were vast rubber estates in the nearby areas are now planted with palm instead. Rubber wood has to be sourced elsewhere, which led to increased costs.

Food aroma is comforting. Kim Hock Bakery, as the only Hainanese family within Ayer Tawar New Village where FuZhounese makes up the majority, keeps up a comfortable daily life by baking bread with their wood-fired oven, allowing nostalgic flavours to continue their legacy.

有你 UNI Production
Producer : Daniel Lim
Cinematographer : Amelia Lim / Michael Lerk
Drone : Daniel Lim
Video Editor : Michael Lerk
Copywriter : Pua Hui Wen

COPYRIGHTS 2023 ECHINOIDEA SDN BHD

Fuzhou Mooncakes in Ayer Tawar

The old-fashioned paper package is topped with a festive red brand flyer, tightly knotted with a thin string. Untie the string, remove the flyer, unwrap the paper package to reveal 12 small, round savoury mooncakes. Grab a piece and break apart layers of flaky crust, the filling is packed with umami, mildly oniony, with a hint of sweetness, yielding a springy texture. In Ayer Tawar, a small town in Perak where most of the population originated from FuZhou, savoury mooncakes are a Mid-Autumn Festival staple, perfect for gifting or own consumption, selling out fast when the season draws near.

The moon is exceptionally bright in mid-autumn, signifying a bountiful harvest in ancient agrarian societies, hence people pay homage to the moon, and mooncakes were originally an offering for the moon deity. Since the Yuan and Ming dynasties, the custom of admiring the beauty of the full moon while indulging in mooncakes, as well as gifting mooncakes, gained popularity and imbued mooncakes with cultural significance. To the FuZhounese pioneers of Ayer Tawar, traditional festivals sustain their earnest longings for their hometown. Back when resources were scarce, mooncakes were a precious delicacy, sharing among family members symbolizes unity and togetherness.

Most commonly seen are Cantonese-style mooncakes with soft glossy crust and sweet dense fillings. However, savoury mooncakes are SuZhou-style with flaky crust and savoury fillings, baked in a traditional grill oven. The savoury filling is made using pork containing both fat and lean portions, which is chopped by hand to ensure a supple texture instead of a sticky mince. Seasoned with salt, pepper, five spices, peanuts, sesame seeds, and green onions, it imparts a rich aroma after stir-frying. Lard is incorporated into the pastry dough to form a layered flaky crust, then manually insert the filling. The wrapped mooncakes are transferred onto a charcoal grill pan and covered with a charcoal-fired lid, baked on both sides for about 10 minutes until well done. 

Apart from savoury mooncakes, lard shortbread cookies are also a festive treat in Ayer Tawar. Made using steamed flour combined with castor sugar, eggs and lard to form a crumbly dough, pressed into wooden moulds, knocked to dislodge the pressed cookies, which are then neatly arranged onto trays to be oven-baked. Lard shortbread cookies can be eaten on its own, or made into a drink by adding hot water.

Fried glutinous rice sticks is a must-have during Mid-Autumn Festival family and friends gatherings. It is nicknamed “Mice Biscuits” due to its resemblance to newborn mice. Cute, crispy, and highly enjoyable, its production process is in fact cumbersome and time-consuming, with various factors affecting the success rate. The dough is made of glutinous rice flour, water, and yeast. After fermentation, the dough is rolled out and manually cut into inch-long strips, which are deep-fried until puffed up and golden in colour, then set aside and let cool. The fried glutinous rice sticks are first coated in a boiling maltose and sugar syrup, immediately followed by a layer of steamed flour. Excess flour is sifted off and it is ready.

Siew Hua Biscuits is among the few bakeries still producing traditional Chinese pastries in Ayer Tawar. Mid-Autumn Festival goodies such as savoury mooncakes, lard shortbread cookies, and fried glutinous rice sticks are only produced and sold in the month preceding the festival. Due to all items being freshly made with natural ingredients and no preservatives added, the shelf life is quite short, therefore orders need to be placed in advance, be it local pickup or interstate delivery. The second generation owner, 71-year-old Yak Sing King, said that he has retired and his son Yak Chou Liong is now in charge, yet he still toils away in the kitchen. The family members and a couple of workers start production from the wee hours till around 10P.M.

Gifting savoury mooncakes, lard shortbread cookies, and fried glutinous rice sticks together, the bulging paper package is full of delicious treats and sincere wishes from the giver.

Nowadays, these traditional foods do not conform to mainstream healthy eating habits, however they retain Fuzhou folk customs and etiquette, and reflect the cultural significance of traditional festivals.

有你 UNI Production
Producer : Daniel Lim
Cinematographer : Amelia Lim / Michael Lerk
Drone : Daniel Lim
Video Editor : Michael Lerk
Copywriter : Pua Hui Wen

COPYRIGHTS 2023 ECHINOIDEA SDN BHD

Sin Han Seong Restaurant

As the clock strikes 11A.M., Uncle Ling Hing Kooi rolls up the shutters of Sin Han Seong Restaurant, sunlight pours into the half-brick and half-wood double-storey old shophouse, lending brightness and warmth to the interior. The ancient wooden counter is his fortress, and the small round table opposite is laden with glass beer bottles, containing not beer but homemade barley drink instead. Uncle Ling arranges dimsum handmade in-house into the steaming cabinet, and greets customers as they enter. At least one of the signature dishes will appear on each table: spicy and sour fish fillets, spicy and sour pork ribs, Fuzhou mixed vegetables, spicy and sour fish maw soup, red rice wine noodles, or Fuzhou braised noodles.

Ayer Tawar in Perak is situated between Ipoh and Lumut, adjacent to Sitiawan. Most of the residents are Chinese, originating from Fuzhou in China, who retain their ancestral dialect and food culture even after a century of settlement. Sin Han Seong Restaurant was established within a row of shophouses facing the main road, originally belonged to the same landowner as the cinema behind it, built around 1935. Previously named Han Seong Teahouse, it was renamed Sin Han Seong upon changing ownership to Ling Hing Kooi’s father in 1954.

The senior Mr Ling hailed from China, at first he settled in Kampung Koh working as a hot kitchen cook, then he moved to work in Ayer Tawar, where he acquired a shop and brought his family over. In the face of difficult living conditions at the time, the entire family worked together to run the restaurant. Upholding the hardworking spirit of the Fuzhou clan, they open for long hours every day. Serving bao, dimsum, and porridge from 6A.M. onwards, so that rubber tappers may fill their stomachs before work; cooking hot meals all day long to cater for local residents, especially at night when many Indian customers dine in; late night supper spot for movie-goers. Through joint effort by all family members, Sin Han Seong’s business flourished, and the second floor was expanded as a banquet hall, which hosted various banquets during the 1970s and 1980s.

In the 1990s, emerging market competition dealt a blow to Sin Han Seong’s glory, therefore they focused on dine-in foodservice instead. After the senior Mr Ling retired, his seven sons take turns to run the restaurant. However, as the second generation grew older and some passed away, they resumed joint operation, with shorter opening hours from 11A.M. to 7P.M. Among the three siblings still actively involved in the business, the eldest brother is semi-retired and only helps occasionally. The fourth brother, Ling Hing Kooi, is in charge of operations and beverage-making. He sources goods at the wet market in the morning, then rushes back to prepare barley drinks, cook rice, and take care of general affairs at the restaurant. The youngest brother, Ling Hing Tee, is in charge of the cooking, together with two nephews and a few hired help.

Since the opening of the West Coast Expressway, lesser travellers drop by the town, business declined but fortunately there still are regular customers. On weekends and public holidays, foodies flock from Kuala Lumpur and Penang to get a taste of authentic Fuzhou cuisine. During Chinese New Year, when those working outstation return to their hometown, they would come for the nostalgic childhood taste. The cinema behind the restaurant ceased operations 20 or 30 years ago, most of the shophouses in the same row were abandoned due to disrepair. Word has it that the government intends to reclaim the area to widen public roads, and lawyers are handling property valuation. Uncle Ling is already in his 70s, all the restaurant employees are also ageing, it is beyond their capabilities to start over in a new place. As his nephews have no intention of taking over the restaurant, there is a possibility that it will eventually close down.

Decades of serving Fuzhou-style delicacies, shaping collective food memories of Ayer Tawar residents, Sin Han Seong restaurant has a warm atmosphere where most conversations are carried out in Fuzhou dialect, family and friends gather happily around tables full of sumptuous dishes that are mostly red in colour. These scenes may no longer exist in the future, but forever sealed in memory.

有你 UNI Production
Producer : Daniel Lim
Cinematographer : Amelia Lim / Michael Lerk
Drone : Daniel Lim
Video Editor : Amelia Lim
Copywriter : Pua Hui Wen

COPYRIGHTS 2023 ECHINOIDEA SDN BHD