UNINESS

Upon entering the alley between Jalan Petaling and Jalan Sultan, the warm, comforting smell of delicious food makes one’s mouth water. Situated directly behind Kong Wooi Fong Tea Merchants, tucked beneath gray tarpaulin sheets, is the last remaining stir-fry stall in this alley – Sai Kee, which offers homely Cantonese cuisine made to order.

In the past, the alleyways around Petaling Street were filled with simple food stalls and temporary seating, offering a variety of affordable meals while also serving as community gathering spots. However, in recent years, such “Dai Pai Dong” hawker culture has gradually declined, and now the number of food stalls in the alley is few and far between. Despite the abundance of restaurants and cafés along the main streets, laneway hawkers are the go-to for comfort food.

The stall has always occupied the same spot since being established decades ago by Uncle Lai Seng Wai’s grandfather, who hailed from Panyu in Guangdong, China. At first it was an unnamed stall with no fixed menu, which served claypot chicken rice at one point, economy rice at another, and changed to serving Hokkien noodles when Uncle Lai’s father inherited the stall. Towards the end of 1969, the menu was revamped to serving stir-fry. Uncle Lai sees no reason for change when he took over the reins, therefore he retains his father’s cooking method and recipes.

Popular dishes include braised fish with tofu, sweet and sour pork, french beans with roasted pork, and fish paste soup, among others. All ingredients are freshly purchased and prepared daily. The signature fish balls are made from wild-caught mackerel, chopped, mixed, and beaten by hand to achieve a firm, chewy texture.

Bright orange flames momentarily shoot up as Uncle Lai Seng Wai ladles oil into a hot wok, engulfing the ingredients upon their being added. Uncle Lai stirs deftly with a stainless steel spatula, then instead of tossing the wok, he covers it with a flat metal lid and let the flames lick around the wok. Within a matter of moments, he removes the lid – the food is thoroughly cooked and ready to be served.

The fiery stir-fry is a technique that combines speed and precision, maintaining a high temperature throughout the cooking process. The intense heat elevates the flavors and imbues “wok hei” (breath of the wok), an enticing smoky savory aroma, to the food. The practice of covering the wok with a lid instead of tossing speeds up cooking, improving evaporation as well as flavor due to Maillard reaction. 

Among the Petaling Street community, the stall is verbally known as “Ah Sai” (scrawny lad), the nickname of Uncle Lai’s father due to his rake-thin physique. Later on, it was registered as the official name to be displayed on the stall’s signboard. The main clientele consists of long-time regulars whose families have been frequenting the stall over three generations. In recent years, the crowd consists of more office workers from the nearby area and tourists. 

Uncle Lai, who helms the wok at Sai Kee, displays his multitasking ability to handle four woks simultaneously during peak hours. He is also in charge of procuring goods from the wholesale market late at night after work, and picking up miscellaneous ingredients from the supermarket and wet market in the morning before heading to work. His younger brother Hoong Wye is in charge of taking orders, cutting ingredients and preparing steamed dishes, with the help of their aunt and a few workers. 

For Uncle Lai and his brother, helping their parents since a young age and taking over the family business in adulthood comes to them as something natural. They have been working together for more than 40 years, and as business partners in the past two decades, each taking care of their own duties, continuing the legacy of the alley’s bustling food scene. Unfortunately, there is no one to take over. The food industry requires constant, tireless work, and few are willing to accept the long hours and hard labor. Like many other food stalls that have gradually disappeared from the alley, once they can no longer work, they have no choice but to close.

有你 UNI Production
Producer : Daniel Lim
Cinematographer : Amelia Lim / Michael Lerk
Drone : Daniel Lim
Video Editor : Michael Lerk
Copywriter : Pua Hui Wen

COPYRIGHTS 2024 ECHINOIDEA SDN BHD

At dawn, the sound of bells and conch shells from the Sri Maha Mariamman Temple on Jalan Tun H.S. Lee in Kuala Lumpur heralds the start of daily prayer sessions. At the same time, about a dozen flower garland vendors set up their stalls in the adjacent alley. Fresh flowers in pure white, bright yellow, and vibrant red are skillfully woven into garlands and displayed on stands, creating an eye-catching scenery. Occasionally stirred by a playful breeze, the garlands emit delightful fragrances.

The Petaling Street area is a cultural melting pot. While the majority of residents are of Chinese ethnicity, there are also many from other ethnic groups, each building their own temples in the neighbourhood. The Hindu temple and the Kuan Ti Temple sit across from each other, coexisting peacefully for over a century. A row of garland stalls are located next to the Hindu temple, providing convenience for worshippers from both temples to purchase garlands as offerings. Uncle Anamalay Nadaraj (Kartik) has been making and selling garlands in the Petaling Street area for the longest duration, working up to fifteen hours a day i conjunction with the temple’s opening hours, and rarely taking a break in over thirty years. During major festivals like Thaipusam and Deepavali, he even work overnight to fulfill orders.

Uncle Kartik was born into a family constantly filled with the fragrance of flowers. His grandfather planted various flowers in their yard, and from a young age, he helped to pluck fresh flowers in the morning, hence developing an interest and learning to make garlands from his grandfather and mother. After graduating from high school, he set up his own stall in Brickfields to make and sell garlands. By chance, he obtained a business license in the Petaling Street area and relocated there. Due to the different demographic makeup of the area, compared to the predominantly Indian community in Brickfields, he expanded his customer base to include people from all three major ethnic groups as well as foreign tourists.

Flowers commonly used for making garlands include jasmine, chrysanthemums, roses, and carnations. Hindus choose flowers based on the preferences of individual deities, while Chinese typically buy lotus flowers to worship Guanyin, and tourists often favor colorful orchids. In addition to flowers, Uncle Kartik’s stall also sells items like limes and incense, a one-stop shop for worshippers before they enter the temple.

Customers can customize the size and flower selection of garlands based on different occasions and usage, from small ones to hang in cars for fragrance, medium ones for welcoming guests or during traditional Indian weddings, to large ones used for entrance or venue decorations. Different colors and types of flowers carry different meanings across cultures; for example, red garlands are chosen for Indian funerals, while white garlands are preferred for Chinese funerals. In recent years, gifting garlands instead of bouquets at graduation ceremonies became a trend, which Uncle Kartik finds amusing.

By weaving garlands for over thirty years, Uncle Kartik’s family also flourished. As he is getting advanced in years, he has started hiring help. Unfortunately, few local youths are willing to work in this trade, so he brought in staff from his ancestral home in India. Uncle Kartik’s son helps in managing social media and online orders during his free time and runs errands for deliveries. Perhaps in the future, he will inherit this family business, allowing the vibrant garlands to continue spreading their fragrance in Petaling Street.

有你 UNI Production
Producer : Daniel Lim
Cinematographer : Amelia Lim / Michael Lerk
Drone : Daniel Lim
Video Editor : Michael Lerk
Copywriter : Pua Hui Wen

COPYRIGHTS 2024 ECHINOIDEA SDN BHD

Raw rattan vines grow in the tropical rainforests, and require meticulous processing to be made into furniture. Rattan furniture maker Chiau Tai Huat, born and bred in Gurun, has been working in the industry for decades. Throughout his career, he worked in several different places before returning to his hometown and set up his own shop – Ban Lee. At 78 years old, he is still using his strong physique and skillful hands to craft all sorts of rattan furniture and household goods, at the same time accepting custom order requests.

Gurun is the second largest Chinese new village in Kedah, with around 300 households, the majority of them being TeoChew. Agriculture used to be the main local economy, later on there came manufacturing and industrialisation. In the early days, there were limited furniture options, almost every household used rattan furniture, which was inexpensive and of good quality. The rattan furniture industry in Gurun was most prosperous from the 1960s to the 1980s. Compared with wooden sofas or leather sofas, rattan sofas are light, cool and not easily damaged, therefore especially popular.

The first rattan furniture shop in Gurun, Eng Thye Lee, used to be an ironsmith shop ran by Chiau Tai Huat’s father. Chiau’s elder brother, who was unwilling to learn the trade, went outstation and learned to make rattan furniture instead, thus transforming the business but still operating under the same trade name. Back then he employed a dozen or so apprentices, providing livelihood for young dropouts. After mastering the craft, they would start their own rattan workshops at home in the new village. During peak seasons, Eng Thye Lee would even outsource some projects to them.

Chiau Tai Huat learnt to make rattan furniture from his elder brother, and became his aide in Eng Thye Lee. After a while, he went around Sungai Petani, Kulim, Yan, Alor Setar, and Kota Bharu, Kelantan, working in various rattan shops and gained much experience. He then returned to his hometown to set up his own shop, and took great pains to reclaim a shoplot that his father rented to an Indian barber. Ban Lee officially opened in 12th May 1986, with beautiful hopes of “prosperous” and “everything goes well”.

A rattan stick with a diameter of an inch or so does not change colour when burned, but gradually soften under the high temperature. Bend it while it is hot, and it will retain the shape when it cools down. To achieve a specific curvature, it may be necessary to repeat heating and apply force several times. Over time, the surface of the rattan furniture will appear shiny due to being moisturised by sebum, no maintenance is required. Even if the rattan strips wear out, Uncle Chiau provides repair services.

With the rapid rise of industrialisation around the 1990s, there were more furniture choices at affordable prices, demand for handmade rattan furniture decreased. Moreover, the government enacted strict laws to control forest harvesting, resulting in skyrocketing raw material prices. As things went from bad to worse, most rattan furniture makers had no choice but to switch careers, only a handful remain in Gurun new village. Till this day, Ban Lee and Eng Thye Lee are still standing on the old street. 

Rattan furniture provides excellent ventilation and is durable, suitable for both indoor and outdoor use, its natural colour exudes a simple and tranquil atmosphere. Furniture made from raw materials in local tropical rainforests has evolved from crude products in the early days to fashionable artisanal crafts, albeit less in demand. Uncle Chiau is optimistic about the future of rattan furniture, and he is glad to see his son taking interest in inheriting the trade. With passion, perseverance, and patience, one will manage to make a living.

有你 UNI Production
Producer : Daniel Lim
Cinematographer : Amelia Lim / Michael Lerk
Drone : Daniel Lim
Video Editor : Amelia Lim
Copywriter : Pua Hui Wen

COPYRIGHTS 2024 ECHINOIDEA SDN BHD

At 4.30AM, night owls have not yet fallen asleep, the city has not yet woken up, street lights illuminate dust that has not yet been kicked up by traffic. A MPV drove slowly into the dark alley behind the Public Bank building on Jalan Tun HS Lee and pulled over aside. Uncle Wong Hoong Hon got out of the car and unlocked the fence of “Wong Mee Coffee Stall”. This small plot accommodated his daily necessities. Uncle Wong turned on the lights, washed the cups and plates, boiled the drinking water, and then set up tables and chairs on the roadside. With everything in place, he sat on the stool in front of the stall, looking at the brightening sky and waiting for customers.

The rosy morning glow peeked out shyly from behind the tall buildings, and the alleys began to crowd with people. Around 7.30AM, customers flock in, filling the empty seats. Neighbourhood residents came for their daily drinks, office workers hurriedly left after eating, and travellers from afar took a rest. Long-term close friends with graying hair on their temples gathered here as usual. Everyone smoked, chatted, and spent the morning laughing and joking. When Uncle Wong’s finally made it through the morning rush, he joined them until other customers show up.

The rich coffee and tea has maintained the livelihood of Uncle Wong Hoong Hon and his father Wong Mee for two generations, and the fragrant aroma lingers in their ordinary lives. Wong Mee started a coffee and tea-making business decades ago in a small shack not far from the current location, and his wife and children helped deliver it to customers in nearby shops. The busiest times every day were the tea breaks at 10AM and 3PM. Wong Hoong Hon, who was still young at that time, had to bring a tray laden with drinks and send to a dozen shops. When he grew up, he went out to work, but when his father passed away in 1987, he resigned and returned home to run the coffee stall with his mother.

Despite having relocated about 30 years ago, Wong Mee Coffee Stall has always been tucked in the alley, just a stone’s throw away from the bustling streets. The current location of the stall was provided by a regular customer, who hopes that Uncle Wong Hoong Hon will continue to operate the coffee stall as a gathering place for the neighbourhood community. The signboard handwritten by his father on red paper was damaged by rain, but he kept his father’s name and printed it on an acrylic signboard. At this point, Uncle Wong was running the business alone. Due to lack of manpower, he could not continue to deliver, so customers had to dine in. He also sells some light bites, such as bread, eggs, bao and dimsum. Earlier on, the menu included chee cheong fun and fried noodles homecooked by his wife, but was omitted after MCO.

Traditional coffee and tea making is not about technique, but achieving a balanced flavour between the base coffee or tea and condensed milk. This is what Uncle Wong surmised from decades of practical experience, and he can tell the difference at a glance. Cups of unpretentious fragrant coffee or tea capture the taste buds of customers and became a daily part of life, therefore customers willingly come back to Uncle Wong. He is reluctant to see his old friends break up, and he will continue to work until he is no longer able to.

As Uncle Wong Honghan is getting older and lacks physical strength, his operating hours from 5AM to 8PM were shortened to 12PM. Whenever passing by this alley in the afternoon, the space where the seats were placed is full of cars, and the stall is fenced up tightly. The scene in the morning is like a dream and a fantasy that has never really happened. Want to have a cup of tea in this alley? Please be early tomorrow.

有你 UNI Production
Producer : Daniel Lim
Cinematographer : Amelia Lim / Michael Lerk
Drone : Daniel Lim
Video Editor : Amelia Lim
Copywriter : Pua Hui Wen

COPYRIGHTS 2023 ECHINOIDEA SDN BHD

The morning mist gradually dispersed under the gentle sun rays, at the same time in Ayer Tawar New Village, thick white smoke slowly rose from the rear end of a double-storey wooden house next to the community garden. Locals are familiar with this sight, knowing that it is not a fire, but a sign that Kim Hock Bakery is open today. The second generation owner, Hwa Kia Hwa, piled rubber wood and dried coconut shells into the wood-fired oven, then lit the fire at 9A.M. for four hours of pre-heating.

The oven stands at two metres high, three metres wide and three metres deep. It is built with red mud bricks and cement. Its inner insulation layer is made of heat storage materials such as broken glass and coarse salt. Firewood is kindled within the oven, the temperature rose, allowing the oven walls to absorb and store the heat. After cleaning out the remaining ash, the residual heat is used for baking. Unlike ordinary ovens with adjustable heating elements, it is heated only once to sustain the whole day, which is only enough to bake a few batches of bread.

Hwa Kia Hwa grew up surrounded by the bread aroma, and helped his parents after school. After graduating from high school in 1968, he intended to pursue other careers, but at his father’s request, he inherited the family business and learned traditional bread baking skills. His father passed away in 1979, his mother continued to work until she breathed her last, Hwa Kia Hwa and his three younger sisters (Puah Yuat Mooi, Puah Guat Soon, and Puah Juan Nam) jointly manage the bakery for decades. It is still a family-run production, without employing workers. Hwa’s son Alvin worked outside for some years before choosing to return and take over as the third generation successor.

The wood-fired oven is difficult to handle due to inability to measure or control the temperature, relying on accumulation of experience to gauge the temperature and to predict how long the baking process may take. Puah Juan Nam uses a long-handled wooden peel to transfer proofed bread into the oven, fully utilizing the space to neatly arrange 42 baking pans. When baking is completed, she has to endure high temperatures to slowly and skilfully removing the breads. She alone is able to master this important task, hence nicknamed “The Oven’s Nanny”. 

Due to limited capacity and heat efficiency, Kim Hock Bakery bakes four rounds of bread daily, at a fixed production rate using 75 kilograms of flour plus other ingredients. In early days, bread dough is mixed by hand, a toilsome task. In the 1970s, a custom-made mixer was installed to ease the burden. The remaining procedures are still carried out manually, such as stir-frying desiccated coconut fillings on the wood-fired stove, bread shaping, placing onto baking trays to proof, inserting fillings and packaging. Such is their way of bread-making. The best-sellers are Hainanese white loaf, coconut buns, and red bean paste buns. Recently, new items such as pumpkin buns and muffins are also introduced.

Apart from regular customers and occasional tourists, Kim Hock Bakery established long-term business relationships with traditional coffee shops, mamak stalls, and traditional grocers in the vicinity. In the past, the founder had to deliver breads on a bicycle, riding more than ten miles in distance. It was not until they acquired a car in the 1970s that the delivery process became easier. Roti Kok has a high market demand, which they find it hard to meet despite daily production of minimum 200 packs.

From the 1980s to the 1990s, tight market competitions caused sales to plummet. Fortunately the siblings work together hand in glove to overcome the difficulties. Trending food nostalgia coupled with media exposure drove up demand for traditional bread. Although the wood-fired oven has become a signature attraction, Kim Hock Bakery now faces another challenge: firewood shortage. What once were vast rubber estates in the nearby areas are now planted with palm instead. Rubber wood has to be sourced elsewhere, which led to increased costs.

Food aroma is comforting. Kim Hock Bakery, as the only Hainanese family within Ayer Tawar New Village where FuZhounese makes up the majority, keeps up a comfortable daily life by baking bread with their wood-fired oven, allowing nostalgic flavours to continue their legacy.

有你 UNI Production
Producer : Daniel Lim
Cinematographer : Amelia Lim / Michael Lerk
Drone : Daniel Lim
Video Editor : Michael Lerk
Copywriter : Pua Hui Wen

COPYRIGHTS 2023 ECHINOIDEA SDN BHD