Category: Native Cuisine

A few decades ago, there was a Sentosa Cinema in Section 17, Petaling Jaya. In its immediate surroundings, there were plenty of roadside stalls, a wet market by day and a food court by night, fulfilling the community’s living needs. After the cinema burned down in 1997, the site became a carpark, until Seventeen residence and mall was constructed in 2014. Beside the building, Petaling Jaya city council offered a sheltered space for the hawkers, many of whom had been there for over four decades, standing witness to the changes in the neighbourhood, and frequented by local residents. Among them is Chinese Herbal Tea.

The stall owner, Uncle Ngui Pong, is in his seventies. Hailing from Bukit Kepong in Johor, at 17 years old he moved to Selangor to learn martial arts and Tit Tar from Master Chow Tin Sang in SEA Park. Master Chow sold herbal tea for a living, and taught Uncle Ngui the traditional recipes for him to start his own business at the neighbouring Section 17. There are a few types of herbal teas: Five Flower Tea, monk fruit tea, Prunella vulgaris tea, and bitter tea (also known as “Wong Lo Kat”). One may opt to add Chinese medicine powder to bitter tea, to help relieve bodily discomforts. Later on, Uncle Ngui studied Traditional Chinese Medicine, and made minor adjustments to the recipes according to the therapeutic properties of medicinal herbs. 

Selling herbal tea is a tedious task that takes up the entire day. At 8AM, Uncle Ngui starts preparing to boil herbal teas in the kitchen at the rear of the house, one large pot of each type. In the past, he used charcoal stoves, the heat was not stable, hence requiring close attention and the need to add firewood. Now that he uses gas stoves, the heat is stable, and Uncle Ngui is able to make time throughout the several hours of boiling to attend to patients who visit his Tit Tar clinic. Around 3PM to 4PM, the herbal teas are ready, and it is time to set up the stall. He travels back and forth between the food court and his house to bring the herbal teas, tables and chairs, and the stall itself. His wife also helps him to set up and do sales. Meanwhile, if there are patients, he returns to the clinic at home to attend to them. The herbal teas are prepared fresh daily and sell out. Uncle Ngui used to sell until late night, but in recent years he closes around 10PM.

Uncle Ngui usually sports white attire, the signboard of his stall is written in red on a white background, such is his appearance from youth to elderly. Day in, day out, he set up his stall in Section 17 regardless of the weather, the local residents drop by for herbal tea whenever they feel “heaty”. Many of his regular customers used to study at Universiti Malaya, and have been supporting him since they were students. Whenever they meet Uncle Ngui and his wife, they greet them with respect. The city council did not provide a dining area in the sheltered space for hawkers, therefore Uncle Ngui and his wife bought dozens of tables and chairs with their own money, providing convenience to fellow hawkers as well as customers, without demanding any return for their extra efforts. It would be great if customers could order a cup of herbal tea priced at RM2.50 as a gesture of appreciation. 

Despite always looking serious, Uncle Ngui is honest and selfless, his herbal teas are authentic and priced reasonably, enabling him to blend into an unfamiliar neighbourhood and stay for decades. Each cup of herbal tea not only helps promote health, but also acts as a relationship bond between Uncle Ngui and the local community, a sweet sight in this Chinese new village within the city. 

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【About Herbal Tea】

Herbal tea originated from LingNan, which encompassed the modern regions of Guangdong, Guangxi, Hainan, Hong Kong, and Macau. Due to being located in the subtropical monsoon climate zone, the combination of humidity and heat causes discomforts to the human body. Herbal tea is a herb-based healthy drink based on Traditional Chinese Medicine knowledge to relieve such discomforts. Herbal tea formulas can be divided into single and compound formulas, namely utilising a single type of medicinal herb and multiple types of medicinal herbs, which have therapeutic properties, such as honeysuckle and Prunella vulgaris.

Boiling herbal tea requires careful control of heat and time. The herbs need to be boiled just right, neither overboiled and lose all efficacy, nor underboiled and less efficient. Put the herbs and water into a pot, bring to a boil, then simmer over low heat for at least three hours. After that, it is left to stand for a period of time, to enrich both the flavor and the color of the herbal tea, before it is considered done.

Herbal tea is not only a drink, but a health-preserving wisdom based on Traditional Chinese Medicine originating from the general public and passed down over thousands of years. Drinking herbal tea to stay healthy is a major feature of LingNan folk culture. As our forebearers migrated to tropical Southeast Asia, herbal tea became widely popular due to its remarkable efficacy, and people of all nationalities and ethnicities could drink it. Herbal teas may be light or dark in color, and sweet or bitter in taste, yet each offers benefits that support one’s well-being. 

有你 UNI Production
Producer : Daniel Lim
Cinematographer : Amelia Lim / Michael Lerk
Drone : Daniel Lim
Video Editor : Amelia Lim
Copywriter : Pua Hui Wen

COPYRIGHTS 2025 ECHINOIDEA SDN BHD

Fish wrapped in aluminium foil packets are neatly arranged on the brick stove, getting licked by bright flames from the charcoal fire. The chef is unable to see through the packet, and therefore can only determine whether or not the fish is fully cooked from the duration and degree of heating. When deemed ready, the foil packets are transferred to stainless steel oval plates and served to customers. Upon ripping open the steaming hot packets, one is greeted by the mouthwatering aroma and the delicate, tender flesh of a whole fish. The freshwater Tilapia fish takes about six months to grow from fish seeds to about one kilogram in weight, yet was caught, gutted and scaled, then cooked and served in the blink of an eye.

The grilled fish restaurant founded by Kok Sack Swee is situated within the hilly countryside of Broga, surrounded by verdant greenery, where one can listen to chirping birds and insects, view glimmering ponds, and embrace the tranquility and serenity. Uncle Kok lives in a small cottage on the plantation grounds. Early in the morning, he busied himself tending various fruit trees and medicinal herbs, as well as feeding the fish in the ponds. Although the work is tedious, he finds enjoyment in it.

Ancestors of the Kok family migrated from HuiZhou in GuangDong, China to Broga in the 1910s. Kok Sack Swee was a Broga lad born and bred. In his youth, he started his career in the agricultural sector, including a stint in oil palm cultivation at Kuantan, which he afterwards returned to Broga and developed fruit plantations. In the mid-90s, he started a fish pond in his durian plantation, and opened it to recreational fishing. As a way to attract more customers, Uncle Kok and his wife decided to offer cooking services.

Inspired by the relaxed charm of picnics, the freshly-caught fish are gutted and scaled, coated in homemade paste, wrapped in an aluminium foil packet, and grilled on a charcoal fire. Due to foil packets absorb heat relatively quick and distribute it evenly, as well as effectively retaining the food’s moisture, lending the grilled fish a delicate and tender texture. Captivating the customers’ taste buds with fresh ingredients, and charging a fair price, Uncle Kok gradually gained popularity. He is the first in Broga to offer grilled fish in aluminium foil packets, attracting foodies from near and far. 

In 2000, Uncle Kok shifted to the current premises inside a rubber plantation, built additional fish ponds, and established a grilled fish restaurant. His wife, sister-in-law, son, daughter-in-law, and daughter readily help with operations. The entire family work together to serve up the freshest delicacies. Earlier on, while at the old premises, his son, Kok Chee Yee, used to only help out during weekends. Upon Uncle Kok founded the restaurant in his 60s, Kok Chee Yee decided to stay home to help, and took over the reins shortly after.

Now aged 81, Uncle Kok is no longer in charge of the grill, but he is still actively helping in the restaurant. From time to time, he worked in the fruit orchard behind the restaurant, tending various fruit trees and medicinal herbs. Whenever regular customers visit, he would converse with them in the Hakka dialect. Sometimes he would help to gut and scale fish, chop vegetables, and wash the dishes. In the evening, after business hours, is his time to relax and play with his grandchildren.

Kok Sack Swee leads an idyllic lifestyle in the countryside, Kok Chee Yee also shares his father’s sentiments, keeping a distance from the hustle and bustle of city life, relishing in the natural environment and his culinary pursuits. Living a simple life, surrounded by beloved family members, is the epitome of happiness.

有你 UNI Production
Producer : Daniel Lim
Cinematographer : Amelia Lim / Michael Lerk
Drone : Daniel Lim
Video Editor : Amelia Lim
Copywriter : Pua Hui Wen

COPYRIGHTS 2025 ECHINOIDEA SDN BHD

“Lift the pot lid!” Upon lifting the lid of the steamer, scorching hot gusts of steam escape. Smoke from the woodfire and the steam create a misty cloud-like effect, filled with the sweet aroma of glutinous rice and sugar. Fresh from the pot, glutinous rice cakes have a dark caramel surface while the inner layer is golden in colour, with a smooth and soft texture. Stir using a chopstick, curl up a morsel, take an eager bite despite its high temperature, a pleasant sweetness lingers on the palate.

Glutinous rice cakes are a must-have for Chinese New Year celebration, used for prayers or gifting among family and friends. In the past, almost every family will make glutinous rice cakes before Chinese New Year. In Hakkanese it is called Tài Lǒng Cí (big basket glutinous treat), because it is contained within a bamboo basket that is one foot in diameter. Line the bamboo basket with heat-treated banana leaves, mill the glutinous rice into semi-liquid form, add equal parts of sugar and mix evenly, then pour the mixture into the container and steam for at least 18 to 20 hours.After the steamed glutinous rice cakes cooled down, cut into long strips and put into a tiered bamboo basket alongside other festive gifts, to bring along when visiting family and friends.

49-year-old Lim Swee Lin, whose ancestry is traced back to HeXi Hakkanese village in southern China, is a fourth-generation immigrant, born and bred in Kepong, Kuala Lumpur. His mother, who learned to make traditional treats from both his maternal grandmother (from JiaYing, MeiXian) and his paternal grandmother (from HeXi), ran a wholesale business in Kepong from the 70s to the 90s. As he grew up, he would help out after school. Glutinous rice cake making starts from one month before Chinese New Year, in Lim’s teenage years, he would stay up throughout the night to help tend the fire, adding firewood or water when necessary. Under a subtle influence, he gained glutinous rice cake making skills.

Now a maker of micro landscapes, Lim frequently participate in artisan markets. In conjunction with the Chinese New Year themed You Ni Market 18.0, he decided to share the taste of Chinese New Year he experienced while growing up, replicating the hard and weary process of making traditional glutinous rice cakes to acquaint market-goers with authentic Tài Lǒng Cí. Lim insists on sourcing natural ingredients, using untreated wood (rubber and acacia) for firewood, opting to use bamboo tubes from edible species as containers, which he also line with banana leaves. Lim’s glutinous rice cake mixture is not made from commercially available glutinous rice flour and refined sugar, instead glutinous rice is soaked overnight and ground into semi-liquid form, and then add raw cane sugar which is rich in nutrients and minerals.

Piling firewood, starting a fire, and building a simple red brick stove are all muscle memory to Lim. Boil water in a large iron-cast pot, layer some wood in the pot and arrange the bamboo tubes filled with glutinous rice cake mixture on it, then close the lid. During the cooking process, it is crucial to maintain a burning fire, making sure that the fire does not die out as the weather changes. After steaming for eight to twelve consecutive hours, the glutinous rice and raw cane sugar mixture became fully incorporated and caramelization took place. The aromas of the bamboo tubes and banana leaves became infused into the glutinous rice cakes as well. Consuming while hot, sweetness is at its prime, yet more complex flavours may develop after cooling down.

As Lim takes up the challenge of making glutinous rice cakes on-site, to ensure that things go well, he sought advice from his mother, and engaged his son’s help while providing him with hands-on training. The making of traditional Tài Lǒng Cí passed over four generations, not only strengthening family bonds, but also a continuation of Chinese New Year celebration, wisdom and cultural heritage.

有你 UNI Production
Producer : Daniel Lim
Cinematographer : Amelia Lim / Michael Lerk
Drone : Daniel Lim
Video Editor : Michael Lerk
Copywriter : Pua Hui Wen

COPYRIGHTS 2025 ECHINOIDEA SDN BHD

Around 3AM, when the surroundings are enclosed in darkness, and most people are still sound asleep, the five-foot-way of a double-storey shophouse in Kampung Simee, Ipoh, is brightly lit. A few white-haired ladies are either seated in front of a rectangular charcoal stove or shuffling between two rows of round charcoal stoves (ten in total), busy making traditional Chinese New Year cookies. The aroma of cookies wafts alongside the red-hot smoldering charcoal, music plays from the radio in the corner, sometimes interrupted by lively chatter. They are busy as bees from before sunrise until sunset.

This double-storey shophouse has been around since Kampung Simee was founded, acting as a grocer and home to four generations of the Low family, where all members of the family would now gather. Ranked seventh out of ten sisters in the third generation, Low Siew Tiong sparked an interest in cookie-making from a tender age. Each year, as the festive season approached, she would help neighbours to make cookies after school. After becoming an adult, she suggested to her sisters that they all work together to make Chinese New Year cookies for sale. Unexpectedly, they kept it up for over forty years. Before getting married, they all lived under the same roof. After getting married, during the two months preceding Chinese New Year until New Year’s Eve, they would make a special effort to return to their old home, where they busied themselves with their annual cookie-making.

The charcoal stoves and cast-iron moulds resurfaced from the storeroom to make mouthwatering kuih kapit, egg rolls, and Indonesian style cookies. The inspiration for Indonesian style cookies was a local delicacy they tasted during a trip decades ago where they visited friends in Indonesia. Upon returning home, they come up with their own version: fry a thin round pancake, fill it with peanuts or meat floss, and fold it into a square. Egg rolls are the bestseller, coming in two varieties: hollow or filled with meat floss (inspired by a trip to Hatyai). Kuih kapit, Indonesian style cookies, and egg rolls may appear similar, but the makeup of each batter is different. The Low sisters stick with the same ingredients’ ratio, without making adjustments to suit consumers. They insist on using charcoal, as it instills a unique flavor which consumers love.

Kuih kapit is baked using the rectangular charcoal stove. The sisters work closely together, handling 20 moulds at the same time. From baking, folding, to packing, each step is carried out in an orderly manner. There are no fixed roles, they can swap with each other anytime. The round charcoal stoves are for Indonesian style cookies and egg rolls, which Low Siew Tiong can single-handedly take care of five at a time. The Low sisters, all of whom have genetically white hair, bustle around the shophouse and the five-foot-way. Apart from charcoal-baked cookies, they also make deep-fried honeycomb cookies, and the older sisters are in charge of oven-baked cookies, totalling up to over twenty types.

The making of cookies is not sophisticated, but the process is gruelling, especially as they get older, they endure sore limbs after work. The Low sisters could only accept orders according to their physical capacity, estimate the production time, and close orders one month before the Chinese New Year, focus on completing orders, then wrap up work to enjoy the holidays. In previous years, they used to work right up to New Year’s Eve, and the siblings pooled money to dine out together for the reunion dinner. What they look forward to the most is on the first day of the Chinese New Year, all members of the family gather at their old home and take family photos.

Year in, year out, the making of Chinese New Year cookies became a family ritual, where family members and neighbours help each other out, sit together, chat, and bond. Handmade traditional Chinese New Year cookies, whether gifted to relatives and friends, served to guests, or enjoyed by the family, carry a legacy of warmth and festive spirit.

有你 UNI Production
Producer : Daniel Lim
Cinematographer : Amelia Lim / Michael Lerk
Drone : Daniel Lim
Video Editor : Amelia Lim
Copywriter : Pua Hui Wen

COPYRIGHTS 2025 ECHINOIDEA SDN BHD

Pastries are not just a type of food; they are also an essential part of life rituals. Whether for celebrations or important festivals, pastries are often given as gifts. In Chinese culinary culture, pastries are said to have originated during the Han Dynasty and was a general term for wheat-based products. Depending on the region and heritage, the methods of making pastries, their flavors, and shapes vary. After early generations of Chinese migrants settled in Malaysia, the tradition of Chinese pastries, or “Han bing”, became diluted through time and cultural integration. However, Seong Ying Chai, a longstanding establishment at Jalan Sultan in Kuala Lumpur, continues to keep the legacy of Chinese pastries alive.

The exact founding year of Seong Ying Chai is not clearly documented, but it can be traced back to a business license issued in 1935. In its early years, it was a Shunde cuisine restaurant, famous as one of the “Four Greatest Restaurants of Petaling Street alongside Bunn Choon, Seng Kee, and Yook Woo Hin. All members of the staff underwent rigorous training to master various skills, from cooking and pastry-making to performing arts, ensuring that everyone is a capable all-rounder. After the restaurant closed down a few years ago, the third-generation heir, Lee Kim Fook (Leonard), decided to shift the focus to the production and cultural preservation of Chinese pastries. The three most popular categories being bridal pastries, mooncakes, and new year cookies.

Seong Ying Chai keenly promote bridal pastries due to their profound significance. In the traditional betrothal ceremony, the groom prepares six or twelve gifts to the bride’s family, bridal pastries occupy two of them. This serves two purposes: first, to express the groom’s gratitude to the bride’s parents for raising her; in the past they were transported by carrying poles or bullock carts, the larger the amount of pastries, the greater the sincerity. Second, the bride’s family distributes them to relatives and friends to announce the joyous occasion of the marriage. The bride’s family also prepares return gifts for the groom’s family: for the pair of large pastries featuring dragon and phoenix designs, one is kept by the bride’s family and one is gifted back to the groom’s family; half of the small boxed cookies for distributing among family and friends also given in return to the groom’s family.

Mooncakes are the signature product of Seong Ying Chai, especially during the Mid-Autumn Festival, when the Cantonese have the custom of moon worship. Mooncakes were originally offerings to the moon, later evolved into premium festive gifts. In addition to traditional Cantonese mooncakes, Seong Ying Chai was the first shop in Kuala Lumpur to introduce Hong Kong-style snow skin mooncakes. In the 1950s, the second generation (Leonard’s aunt) learned from a master in Hong Kong and then developed their own unique flavors that are still cherished today. Many longtime customers, even after moving away from Petaling Street, still make a special trip to buy them before the festival.

In addition to mooncakes, “Gong Zai Bing” (mooncake biscuits) are also popular during the Mid-Autumn Festival. Made from leftover mooncake dough and fillings, mooncake biscuits come in various shapes, from deities to animals, which are attractive to children. In the era when Kuala Lumpur’s economy had not yet flourished, the average family could not afford expensive mooncakes, while mooncake biscuits were relatively affordable. The handmade piglet pastries are put into bamboo cages and hung high from the shop’s beams, and customers must tiptoe to cut them down.

With modern development, the significance of Chinese pastries and associated customs has waned, and the values and functions of traditional festivals have gradually changed. Having rooted itself in Kuala Lumpur for nearly a century, Seong Ying Chai carries the taste memories of generations, conveying emotions and blessings through Chinese pastries while continuing a rich cultural legacy.

[Set of Six Gifts] Traditional betrothal ceremony  

• Dragon and Phoenix pastries
• Small cookies in boxes
• Rice crackers
• Ingredients for making tangyuan (sweet glutinous rice balls)
• Gold jewellry  
• Dragon and Phoenix candles

[Bridal pastries fun facts]

• The bride cannot eat her own bridal pastries, as this symbolizes consuming her own good fortune.  
• The filling of bridal pastries is significant: red date paste mixed with pine nuts symbolizes sweetness and convey a wish for fertility; salted egg yolks should not be included as they imply marrying due to pregnancy.

[Gong Zai Bing fun facts]  

• The piglet pastries in bamboo cages symbolizes prosperity, and are hung high in the shop, customers must tiptoe to cut them down, a gesture that carries a wish for continuous success.

有你 UNI Production
Producer : Daniel Lim
Cinematographer : Amelia Lim / Michael Lerk
Drone : Daniel Lim
Video Editor : Amelia Lim
Copywriter : Pua Hui Wen

COPYRIGHTS 2024 ECHINOIDEA SDN BHD

Everything is still and quiet in the wee hours, except for a slight drizzle and gushes of cold breeze gently swaying the coconut trees. Upon driving into the narrow path among the coconut trees in the heart of Lunas, a few wooden houses are scattered around, of which only one is brightly lit. The kitchen is filled with steam, a world apart from the cold outside. A large pot of boiling water sits on top of the wood stove. A stainless steel perforated metal mesh encased in a wooden frame is placed across the pot, a pair of seemingly heat-resistant hands work deftly; the right hand kneads the half-cooked, thick rice batter through the sieve, while the left hand retrieves the cooked, snow-white rice noodles – Bee Tai Bak.

Bee Tai Bak is a term transliterated from the Hokkien dialect. It is a type of noodle that is round and slender, tapering to a fine point at the end. In the Minnan region, Bee Tai Bak is typically served as a sweet cold dish, while in Singapore and Malaysia, it is more commonly found as a savory hot dish, prepared either dry or in soup. The chewy and bouncy Bee Tai Bak is often tossed in a fragrant sauce or submerged in a delicious broth, accompanied by fish balls, dark sauce minced pork, barbecued pork in slices as well as chunks, with chili sauce adding an extra kick.

As the first rays of dawn illuminate the sky, customers begin to arrive, conscientiously parking their vehicles under the coconut trees to avoid obstructing others. Uncle Teh Guan Cheng and his wife Aunty Koh move from the kitchen inside the house to the stall in the back, busily serving bowl after bowl of Bee Tai Bak. Customers enjoy a hearty meal of steaming Rice Taimu in the soft morning light, plenishing energy to kick start the day. By 9:30 AM, the sunlight grows stronger, and those going to school or work have left, prompting Uncle Teh and his wife to close up.

Closing after merely three and a half hours of operation does not mean they can return to bed for extra sleep; instead, they seize the time to head out to purchase fresh groceries, preparing ingredients for the next day. Fresh pork needs to be marinated for several hours before being processed into dark sauce minced pork and barbecued pork. Barbecued pork is made from pork loin, which is the tenderest, best, and most expensive part of the pig. The chili sauce, which is free for customers to consume, is entirely handmade—from chopping the chili to simmering two large pots of aromatic sauce, each step is handled with delicate care.

This home-based Bee Tai Bak stall has stood in the same location for over 60 years without relocating. The previous owner, Mr Tan, ran it for 23 years, sourcing fish balls from Uncle Teh’s mother-in-law. Upon learning that Mr Tan planned to retire and sell the business, she suggested her son-in-law, who was a vegetable farmer, try his hand at it. After about six months of observation and research, Uncle Teh officially took over at the end of 1986, moving his family from Tasek Gelugor to operate this food stall in Lunas. Day in and day out, he and his wife work diligently, paying meticulous attention to each step from selecting and preparing ingredients to cutting and cooking, embodying the spirit of craftsmanship.

In this unassuming township, Uncle Teh and his wife embrace a leisurely lifestyle, living in simplicity while making each day busy and fulfilling. Before long, their young children are grown up and helping them out. The humble noodles from this village home under the coconut trees may one day succumb to the tide of development and eventually disappear, and now they seem closer to vanishing than ever.

有你 UNI Production
Producer : Daniel Lim
Cinematographer : Amelia Lim / Michael Lerk
Drone : Daniel Lim
Video Editor : Amelia Lim
Copywriter : Pua Hui Wen

COPYRIGHTS 2024 ECHINOIDEA SDN BHD

Traditional Cantonese candies embody ancient wisdom. They preserve the shape and taste of the original fruit, albeit more exquisite. Before the invention of the refrigerator, slicing fruits and vegetables to boil with sugar and then air-dry could extend their shelf life without causing wastage and make them more delicious. The Cantonese use homophones to give candies auspicious meanings, making them a must-have festive snack during Chinese New Year. Candied coconuts mean three generations living together; candied ginger slices mean longevity; candied green peppers mean attracting wealth; candied carrots mean a house full of gold and jade; candied lotus seeds mean having children; and candied horseshoes mean getting things done successfully. Traditional Cantonese candies are also used in worship as offerings to welcome wealth and blessings, hence also known as fortune candies or five-color candies.

In Petaling Street, ​​Kuala Lumpur, which used to be a dominant Chinese settlement, only Ho Yoke Kee, a long-established street vendor that has been operating for decades, is still manually making and selling traditional Cantonese candies. On one side of the stall is a steamer filled with a hill-like pile of various rice dumplings, whereas on the other side is a wide selection of traditional Cantonese candies. From 6AM to 6PM, mother-in-law and daughter-in-law duo Yap Nyat Foong and Chong Yoke Yean take turns looking after the stall, while the third-generation successor Ho Chee Keong is in charge of preparations.

Ho Yoke Kee was originally named Ho Dui Kee. The founder, Ho Dui, came to Petaling Street from Dongguan, Guangdong, China in the first half of the 20th century and settled down in Petaling Street, selling lotus roots and other fruits and vegetables to make a living. Facing the unsold lotus roots, fruits and vegetables, he came up with the idea of making them into candies according to the traditional method of his hometown. Later, his son Ho Yoke and his daughter-in-law Yap Nyat Foong inherited this skill and worked together. When the stall had enough manpower, they expanded goods variety and started selling dessert soups and rice dumplings.

Although they have been street vendors in the same location for many years, they were unlicensed and had to evade the city council’s frequent crackdowns. They successfully obtained a license in the 1980s, and the stall was renamed Ho Yoke Kee, still in use today.They mainly sell rice dumplings and only a few types of candies. As Chinese New Year approaches, the variety of candies increased to more than a dozen types. During peak business period, the original stall sells rice dumplings, and they set up another stall selling in Cantonese candies for customers to buy by catties. Preparations must be done one to two months in advance in order to have sufficient supply.

Upon entering the kitchen, all the steps, from preparing the ingredients, such as peeling and splitting the coconut, grating and cutting the coconut meat, are all done by hand. The prepared ingredients need to be blanched to sterilize and remove impurities. Sugar is poured into the heated copper wok to boil into syrup to coat the ingredients. The most difficult variable to control during the cooking process is the heat. The viscosity of the syrup needs to be checked from time to time, as well as stirring constantly to avoid burning. Finally, the sugar-coated ingredients are placed in a bamboo tray and allowed to dry naturally until crystallization forms on the surface, which takes three days to complete.

Ho Chee Keong grew up living in Petaling Street, helping his parents at the stall, and was nicknamed “Rice Dumpling Keong” by the neighbours. After his father passed away, his mother struggled to take care of the family livelihood single-handedly. He made good use of the skills he had learned from childhood to help shoulder the burden of supporting the family, and gradually found an interest in his daily work. His grandfather Ho Dui passed away a few years before he was born, but the art of making Cantonese candies has been passed down from generation to generation. Only in recent years he made some adjustments to reduce sugar, in line with the modern concept of healthy eating.

The process of making rice dumplings and Cantonese-style candies is cumbersome, time-consuming and labor-intensive, but Mr Ho does not feel that life is hard, because the entire family work together and the days are filled with the fragrance of rice dumplings and the sweetness of candies.

有你 UNI Production
Producer : Daniel Lim
Cinematographer : Amelia Lim / Michael Lerk
Drone : Daniel Lim
Video Editor : Amelia Lim
Copywriter : Pua Hui Wen

COPYRIGHTS 2024 ECHINOIDEA SDN BHD

The old-fashioned paper package is topped with a festive red brand flyer, tightly knotted with a thin string. Untie the string, remove the flyer, unwrap the paper package to reveal 12 small, round savoury mooncakes. Grab a piece and break apart layers of flaky crust, the filling is packed with umami, mildly oniony, with a hint of sweetness, yielding a springy texture. In Ayer Tawar, a small town in Perak where most of the population originated from FuZhou, savoury mooncakes are a Mid-Autumn Festival staple, perfect for gifting or own consumption, selling out fast when the season draws near.

The moon is exceptionally bright in mid-autumn, signifying a bountiful harvest in ancient agrarian societies, hence people pay homage to the moon, and mooncakes were originally an offering for the moon deity. Since the Yuan and Ming dynasties, the custom of admiring the beauty of the full moon while indulging in mooncakes, as well as gifting mooncakes, gained popularity and imbued mooncakes with cultural significance. To the FuZhounese pioneers of Ayer Tawar, traditional festivals sustain their earnest longings for their hometown. Back when resources were scarce, mooncakes were a precious delicacy, sharing among family members symbolizes unity and togetherness.

Most commonly seen are Cantonese-style mooncakes with soft glossy crust and sweet dense fillings. However, savoury mooncakes are SuZhou-style with flaky crust and savoury fillings, baked in a traditional grill oven. The savoury filling is made using pork containing both fat and lean portions, which is chopped by hand to ensure a supple texture instead of a sticky mince. Seasoned with salt, pepper, five spices, peanuts, sesame seeds, and green onions, it imparts a rich aroma after stir-frying. Lard is incorporated into the pastry dough to form a layered flaky crust, then manually insert the filling. The wrapped mooncakes are transferred onto a charcoal grill pan and covered with a charcoal-fired lid, baked on both sides for about 10 minutes until well done. 

Apart from savoury mooncakes, lard shortbread cookies are also a festive treat in Ayer Tawar. Made using steamed flour combined with castor sugar, eggs and lard to form a crumbly dough, pressed into wooden moulds, knocked to dislodge the pressed cookies, which are then neatly arranged onto trays to be oven-baked. Lard shortbread cookies can be eaten on its own, or made into a drink by adding hot water.

Fried glutinous rice sticks is a must-have during Mid-Autumn Festival family and friends gatherings. It is nicknamed “Mice Biscuits” due to its resemblance to newborn mice. Cute, crispy, and highly enjoyable, its production process is in fact cumbersome and time-consuming, with various factors affecting the success rate. The dough is made of glutinous rice flour, water, and yeast. After fermentation, the dough is rolled out and manually cut into inch-long strips, which are deep-fried until puffed up and golden in colour, then set aside and let cool. The fried glutinous rice sticks are first coated in a boiling maltose and sugar syrup, immediately followed by a layer of steamed flour. Excess flour is sifted off and it is ready.

Siew Hua Biscuits is among the few bakeries still producing traditional Chinese pastries in Ayer Tawar. Mid-Autumn Festival goodies such as savoury mooncakes, lard shortbread cookies, and fried glutinous rice sticks are only produced and sold in the month preceding the festival. Due to all items being freshly made with natural ingredients and no preservatives added, the shelf life is quite short, therefore orders need to be placed in advance, be it local pickup or interstate delivery. The second generation owner, 71-year-old Yak Sing King, said that he has retired and his son Yak Chou Liong is now in charge, yet he still toils away in the kitchen. The family members and a couple of workers start production from the wee hours till around 10P.M.

Gifting savoury mooncakes, lard shortbread cookies, and fried glutinous rice sticks together, the bulging paper package is full of delicious treats and sincere wishes from the giver.

Nowadays, these traditional foods do not conform to mainstream healthy eating habits, however they retain Fuzhou folk customs and etiquette, and reflect the cultural significance of traditional festivals.

有你 UNI Production
Producer : Daniel Lim
Cinematographer : Amelia Lim / Michael Lerk
Drone : Daniel Lim
Video Editor : Michael Lerk
Copywriter : Pua Hui Wen

COPYRIGHTS 2023 ECHINOIDEA SDN BHD

Catty-corner to the Ka Yin Fui Kon building at Jalan Sultan, Kuala Lumpur, a tarpaulin makeshift roof in the alley between two rows of double-storey shophouses shelters a crude hawker stall. Billows of steam arise from the multi-tiered bamboo steamer on top of the gas stove, marking the spot of Tuck Kee Dim Sum Pau. About 60 years ago, the alley was bustling with hawker stalls selling rice and porridge, cockle noodles soup, stuffed tofu, beef brisket noodles soup, wonton noodles, chee cheong fun, fruits and so on. Along with changing times, most hawkers either moved elsewhere, switched careers, or retired. Tuck Kee alone remains operating in the same place.

The second-generation owner, Chan Kam Weng, is born in 1965, the same year the bao stall was founded. A native KL-ite of Petaling Street, he took over his father’s unnamed bao stall upon finishing middle school. As a tribute to the struggling and enduring story of his father’s migration from China to Malaysia, Chan Kam Weng named the bao stall Tuck Kee after his father, who learnt bao-making skills and set up the stall to upkeep a family with nine children.

In the past, Petaling Street was a bustling area, several families lived together in the upper storey of the shophouses. In the evening, they would come downstairs for tea and supper. Tuck Kee has its own water and electricity supply, hence no need to draw from neighbouring shophouses. Opening from 7P.M. until the wee hours, Tuck Kee sells various types of bao and dimsum, as well as making tea. During those busy times, six to seven siblings help out at the stall. Later on, the numbers diminished, Chan Kam Weng alone persisted in the business for more than 40 years. As more and more old neighbours moved out of Petaling Street, Uncle Chan had to reduce his product line and adjust business hours. Nowadays the bao stall is open from 11A.M. to 3P.M., the only items on the menu include char siu bao (barbecued pork bun), sang yuk bao (steamed meat bun), lotus bao, red bean bun, and glutinous rice chicken.

Starting a business is hard, sustaining a business is even harder. Although times changed to pursue low cost and high efficiency, Uncle Chan maintains the consistent practice for decades by not employing foreign labourers or any machinery, and relies entirely on his hands to control the taste and quality. The daily production maximum cap is 500 pieces, leavened by a decades-old natural starter, resulting in a slightly yellowish appearance with a soft but chewy texture. The bao fillings are not made from pre-packed mince pork, but from a whole slab of fresh pork selected with care by Uncle Chan himself. One part is used to marinate the barbecued pork, while the other is finely chopped into mince for steamed meat bun. He dares to guarantee that his bao can be safely consumed by customers adhering to certain dietary restrictions.

Before dawn, Uncle Chan, his nephew Leong Kah Wai, and two helpers arrive at the stall to start kneading dough and letting it rise, cutting meat, and prepare fillings. Around 9A.M., they skillfully make bao stuffed with different fillings, which were fermented until they were about the size of a fist and are ready to be steamed. At noon, as vast amounts of vapour drift from the steamer, customers come one after another to buy freshly steamed bao. Most of them have been regular customers for ages, there are also new customers attracted by the aroma. Uncle Chan takes his insistence on the authentic taste seriously, as long as it is accepted by 80% of customers, he will stick to his usual seasonings and will not easily make adjustments.

Chan Kam Weng has always stayed in an alley of the busy city, declining offers by investors to set up mass production facilities, choosing to continue the legacy of local community culture and authentic taste. Throughout the years, even though not extremely rich, he is quite self-sufficient. As he is getting on in years, Uncle Chan gradually hand over the reins to his nephew, who followed in his footsteps for more than 20 years. The future of the bao stall is up to Leong Kah Wai, whether to remain in the alley or shift into a shop.

有你 UNI Production
Producer : Daniel Lim
Cinematographer : Amelia Lim / Michael Lerk
Drone : Daniel Lim
Video Editor : Michael Lerk
Copywriter : Pua Hui Wen

COPYRIGHTS 2023 ECHINOIDEA SDN BHD

Kampung Lee Kong Chian in Gombak, Kuala Lumpur, is located beside Jalan Gombak heading east to Bentong, Pahang. Forking paths like palm lines led into the village, the yellow boundary walls of Chin Chong Soy Sauce enclosed hundreds of ceramic jars sunbathing in neat lines. The netting above the jars prevented entry of unwanted particles, yet unable to block the delicious aroma of soy sauce from spreading in the air.

Under the hot sun, Uncle Ng Chui Chong removes the lid of the soy sauce jar to yield a rich brown liquid with a slightly viscous texture. The first step of producing naturally brewed soy sauce is to soak and cook soy beans, then coat with flour to form a starter culture. Forming the starter culture and developing the bacterial culture is crucial in brewing soy sauce, as the amino acids produced during the weeklong fermentation process is essential to determine the quality grade of the soy sauce. Then combine the starter culture and brine in a ceramic jar, expose to direct sunlight and continue to ferment for three months.

Soy sauce craftsman plays the role of a vessel’s captain in determining to which direction the soy sauce’s flavour and quality should be heading, precisely controlling each step of the fermentation process to ensure the final outcome meets satisfactory standards. In Kuala Lumpur, there are only a handful of experienced craftsmen currently still active in the industry, Uncle Ng being one of them. During his youth, he worked at a large-scale soy sauce manufacturer for 12 years, began toiling before dawn, carrying burdens over 100 kilograms on the shoulders, accumulating precious experience and mastering the art of brewing soy sauce.

Having left his former employer, Uncle Ng chose Kampung Lee Kong Chian, a Chinese settlement of about 300 households, to start his own business. The village occupying 30 acres used to be a plot of coconut trees opposite Lee Rubber Manufacturing in Kuala Lumpur, in the 1960s it was offered to employees for building their own quarters, later on tenancy was extended to non-employees. The settlement was built without a plan, hence the unstructured character of the village layout and narrow paths, however the residents are very community oriented. Uncle Ng was elected as the community board chairperson for almost 30 years due to his diligence.

Chin Chong Soy Sauce was founded in 1973, producing naturally brewed soy sauce, cooking caramel, vinegar, and various sauces. The brand name was inspired by Uncle Ng’s name, suggested by a friend and heartily approved by Uncle Ng himself, as he jokingly said it is suitable for any line of business. In the initial days, Uncle Ng multitasked by brewing soy sauce in the morning and went selling soy sauce door-to-door with his mother-in-law. It was challenging to convince customers to try their homemade soy sauce, with doubts about product authenticity.

Eventually, Uncle Ng’s hard work paid off, Chin Chong Soy Sauce built a positive reputation and shifted to wholesaling, many restaurants became loyal customers. Apart from Uncle Ng’s excellent brewing skills, premium ingredients such as non-genetically modified soy beans are used. At the end of soy sauce fermentation, a sample of the resulting product is extracted and tasted by Uncle Ng who has a sensitive palate. After being approved by Uncle Ng, the soy sauce is required to undergo filtering, ultra-heat treatment, and bottling before leaving the facility.

86-year-old Uncle Ng Chui Chong now slowly steps into semi-retirement, reducing his work hours and handing over the reins to his children. In the yard full of old-time ceramic jars, by simply observing and sampling the flavourful soy sauce, the taste which lingers on Uncle Ng’s palate is a complex blend of life’s experiences.

有你 UNI Production
Producer : Daniel Lim
Cinematographer : Amelia Lim / Evon Pang / Michael Lerk
Drone : Daniel Lim
Video Editor : Amelia Lim
Copywriter : Pua Hui Wen

COPYRIGHTS 2022 ECHINOIDEA SDN BHD