Category: Traditional Trades

Dexon Button Shop is located on the ground floor of an old shophouse in Jalan Petaling, Kuala Lumpur. Numerous stalls in front of the five-foot way formed a barrier in which the shop is tucked away. Going through the narrow passageway leading to Dexon Button Shop, the sunlight rays which fall on the front of the shop radiates a special charm. Another captivating sight is the neat and compact wooden cabinets and the dazzling array of buttons on display inside the shop. A myriad of metallic buttons, shell buttons, wooden buttons, plastic and increasingly rare fabric buttons are procured both locally and internationally.

Apart from offering a multitude of buttons, Dexon is also a haberdashery, selling zippers, needles and thread, scissors etc. At the same time, Dexon is one of the few shops in Petaling Street which is family-run by Chinese owners to date, a 40-year-old establishment still in business today. The signboard hanging above the shop entrance became faded over the years, contrasting with the semi-circular column aside which retains bright scarlet letters. The two antique machines——a manual riveting machine and a fabric button machine, are not commonly found among haberdasheries.

The founder of Dexon Button Shop, Mr Chai Chang Nam, hails from Kuala Kangsar, Perak. During his youth, he worked at a tailor shop in Kuala Lumpur. When the shop ceased operations, he started his own haberdashery business at a corner on Jalan Tun H.S. Lee. After a fire incident, Mr Chai shifted to a half shop at No.37 Petaling Street. Later on, the property owner sold the shoplot to a hotel operator, he had no choice but to relocate. Fortunately another shop is available a stone’s throw away, thus he occupied the current premises at No.45 Petaling Street in 1992. The grand reopening was a major event, congratulatory flower stands from his peers almost filled the entire five-foot way. Mr Chai’s second daughter Villy vividly recalls the shop was as if a florist, a fun and exciting childhood memory.

Now that Mr Chai is growing old, he considered retirement during the Movement Control Order (MCO). As Villy took over the reins, he assumed an advisory role. Villy has often helped out since a young age, and is familiar with the shop’s operation. With the help of staff who have up to twenty years’ experience, she has no trouble with the transition. Everybody perform their own duties, covering basic tailor services besides selling sewing supplies, such as stitching buttons, alterations, seaming and zipper repairs.

Chinese knotted buttons are staple goods of the shop, all handmade by Villy and her mother. Colourful fabric strips are weaved into floral patterns, holding the collar in place by a knot and a loop. Usually found on traditional garments such as cheongsam, knotted buttons date back many centuries, with rich cultural heritage. The skills are passed down from Villy’s grandmother to her mother, and then her as the third generation. As knotted buttons fell out of style, this traditional skill may soon be forgotten.

Petaling Street and its surrounding areas, including Jalan Tun H.S. Lee and Jalan Sultan, is the main Chinese settlement during the early days of Kuala Lumpur, with 140 years of history. During her childhood, Villy would be at the shop after school, waiting for her parents to go home together. The staff would let her play around, and witnessed her growing up. Petaling Street is a bustling and friendly neighbourhood to Villy. Almost all shops in the area were previously run by Chinese merchants, there were many textile and clothing shops, as well as traditional herbal shops, hardware shops and food stalls. Some shops ceased operations due to lack of successors, while others rented their premises to foreigners, hence the Chinese cultural features in Petaling Street dwindled. Last year, Villy returned to this intimate shop and community, embarking on a new journey after being laid off.

A button may be tiny, but it is practical in fastening garments or as an accessory. Even though Petaling Street may have altered from the past, Dexon Button Shop remains low-key, holding on thanks to regular customers and craft hobbyists, forming intricate bonds in the same way buttons hold clothes together.

Text: Daniel Lim & Pua Hui Wen

有你 UNI Production
Producer : Daniel Lim
Cinematographer : Amelia Lim / Evon Pang / Michael Lerk
Video Editor : Amelia Lim
Copywriter : Pua Hui Wen
Music : 《Soft Piano》

COPYRIGHTS 2021 ECHINOIDEA SDN BHD

There are six keys on a metal-clad Braille typewriter (Brailler), each corresponding to a Braille dot. When keys are pressed, the stylus within the embossing head makes neat indentations on the paper. Braille is formatted in two parallel vertical lines of three dots each, roughly the size of human fingertips. Different dot combinations represent each alphabet and number, as well as equivalents for music, mathematical, and scientific symbols. This internationally used tactile text format is developed by French educator —— Louis Braille, and gained international recognition in mid-19th century.

In the workshop, Mr Raj Kumar s/o Subramaniam is engaged in repairing 20 Braillers from a special school for the blind in Johor. As the second-generation Brailler technician, he took over duties previously carried out by his father, Mr Subramaniam a/l Sengamalai, at the very same workshop, and even the same workbench, located in Malaysian Association of the Blind (MAB) complex. This is the only place throughout Malaysia which offers Brailler repairs, as well as providing training in repairs.

MAB is a nonprofit organization founded in 1951. Its quarters are located in Brickfields, Kuala Lumpur. Also known as “Little India”, Brickfields houses the largest vision-impaired community in Malaysia, with thousands currently residing in the area. Therefore tactile paving sidewalks and acoustic traffic signals are among the accessible facilities on civic streets. MAB is the first-established blind associations among several in Brickfields. Over the past seven decades, it provides the blind with education programmes, vocational training, and career opportunities in order for them to be self-sufficient.

There are three visual classifications recognized internationally: B1 (total blindness), B2 (partial vision of shadows and movement), and B3 (severe low vision/tunnel vision). With the aid of magnifiers or telescopic devices, those with B3 are able to read and study just like normal people. However those with B1 and B2 rely on Braille to read and write using the sense of touch. The Perkins Brailler® is popular and commonly used worldwide. Invented in the 1950s by the Perkins school for the blind in the United States, it is a typewriting instrument with precise design, portability, and durability.

In the 1960s, MAB received authorization from Perkins for Brailler sales and repairs. Back then, Mr Maniam, who initially joined MAB as printer and binder, had the opportunity to attend a month-long repair training workshop conducted by Perkins personnel, and obtained a good Brailler technician qualification. Throughout the past 50 years, he diligently handled nationwide Brailler maintenance and repair works, amounting to over 10,000 machines. On the other hand, Mr Maniam was invited to conduct Braille repairing workshop both locally and internationally, having been to Pakistan, Bangkok, and Bangladesh.

The main layout of a Brailler are paper levers, paper rollers, a carriage which moves the embossing head, and nine keys which stand for six Braille dots, spacebar, line spacing, and backspace. There are several tiny components within the Brailler, which may be damaged by improper usage or a fall. The most common problems are wear and tear, minor incidents such as broken springs will require replacement; major incidents such as a cracked roller will require the Brailler to be dismantled in order to identify the problem and perform repairs. General maintenance help to keep the Brailler clean and prevent difficulties, just by taking out the cover, brush away dust and cobwebs, and then lubricate.

Upon Mr Maniam’s retirement eight years ago, Mr Raj decided to succeed him. Mr Raj often followed his father to work, and sparked an interest in mechanical repairs. He took over after having attended a two-week workshop organized by Perkins. Mr Raj enjoys overcoming the challenges encountered in Brailler repairs. Occasionally he helps to repair guiding sticks in his spare time. Besides that, he operates a thermoform machine to make tactile graphics for blind textbooks.

Both Mr Maniam and Mr Raj take pride in servicing the blind community, and the blinds are familiar with the corner workshop on the second floor of MAB complex. Braille opened the doors of knowledge to all those who cannot see. Even though advanced technology may offer convenience for the vision-impaired, Braille could not be replaced as the main channel of communication. The click-clack sound of Braillers will still resound in MAB.

Malaysian Association for the Blind
03-2272 2677
www.mab.org.my
www.facebook.com/mabmalaysia
www.facebook.com/mablind.page
www.instagram.com/malaysianassoc.fortheblind/

Text: Daniel Lim & Pua Hui Wen

有你 UNI Production
Producer : Mok Yii Chek
Coordinator : Daniel Lim
Cinematographer : Amelia Lim / Evon Pang
Video Editor : Evon Pang
Production Assistant : Michael Lerk
Music : 《Simple Melody Piano》

COPYRIGHTS 2021 ECHINOIDEA SDN BHD

A golden cylinder with circular coil-shaped curves similar to a helical spring, “spring bread” is thus nicknamed. After cutting into ½inch-thick slices, its fluffy white texture is revealed, along with mouthwatering aroma. The mouthfeel of “spring bread” is cotton-soft, delicious just on its own or paired with fillings such as butter and kaya, eggs, ice-cream, or even made into hamburgers.

Located at Jalan Pudu in Kuala Lumpur, Southern Bakery is established for over 60 years, the only long-standing bakery in Pudu area, containing many locals’ unforgettable memories linked to childhood favourite foods. While baking, the bread aroma flows throughout the shop, attracting the attention of passer-bys. Regular customers would linger around the shop in advance, so that they could purchase the bread freshly out of the oven. As “spring bread” is rarely seen nowadays, most customers forgotten about its existence. Some customers come across it by chance and bought a few due to indulging in reminiscence.

The unique appearance of “spring bread” brought upon various nicknames: pillow bread, lantern bread, or bamboo-shaped bread, thanks to the customized cast-iron tins. The tins were purchased during the British colonization era by the founder Mr Han Chok Toon, extremely durable considering their daily usage for decades. The shaped bread dough is inserted into the two-cavity bread tin, then covered and bolted to bake. After that, the tin is unbolted and gently tapped on the workbench to release the bread. The handful of such tins in Southern Bakery are rare and precious, bearing witness to the past while continuing the legacy of “spring bread”.

The current second-generation owner Auntie Han Jee Nee is born into a family of bakers. Her grandfather ran a bakery in Singapore, and her parents used to help in the family business until mid-1950’s, when they moved to Pudu and founded Southern Bakery at Jalan Pasar together with two partners. Apart from “spring bread” made in cast-iron tins, the bakery also offers down-to-earth Hainanese bread, fist-sized plain buns, and French baguette etc. Their widely popular signature coconut bun is filled with freshly desiccated coconut, without any trace of palm sugar, a secret recipe passed on by Auntie Han’s mother.

In the earlier days, due to the bakery’s close proximity to Star cinema, Metropole cinema, and Majestic cinema, when movie showtimes are over, the bakery was crowded by people buying bread for their next day’s breakfast. At its prime during the 1960’s-70’s, there were 12 staff rotating through morning and night shifts to produce freshly made bread, which were not only sold in the bakery, but also through food trucks and hawkers, and supply to hotels and restaurants. In 1993, Auntie Han and her husband Uncle Law Hong Cheng took over the reins from her ageing father, who passed away the following year.

As more chain bakeries entered the scene in Kuala Lumpur, customers are attracted by fancy gimmicks, packaging and designs. Even so, Auntie Han and Uncle Law did not choose to take a radical approach. Instead, they focus on maintaining the quality of their breads, persisting in producing true authentic flavours. Initially the bakery only offers a few types of bread, until the addition of red bean buns, butter buns, chicken floss buns, and peanut buns in recent years due to customer demands. Currently they work on a small scale, only baking once per day, therefore the quantity of bread produced is very limited, especially “spring bread”.

Auntie Han and Uncle Law took scrupulous care of Southern Bakery for decades, although their business model is getting outdated, they remain calm despite the challenges. Business expansion is not easy, requiring experience, labour, and sufficient capital. Taking things easy, they keep their selling prices low and affordable, hence customers in the neighbourhood continually support them. When they relocated from Jalan Pasar to Jalan Pudu in 2015 due to rental issues, regular customers have no trouble tracing their whereabouts.

Nestled in a busy city, fast-paced lifestyle and immense social pressure did not cause negative impact to Southern Bakery. Auntie Han and Uncle Law tranquilly enjoy a slow-paced lifestyle, and keep on producing simple handmade traditional breads. Focus on the good, and stay happy.

Southern Bakery
03-9221 5781
No. 393, Jalan Pudu, 55200 Kuala Lumpur

Text: Daniel Lim & Pua Hui Wen

有你 UNI Production
Producer : Mok Yii Chek
Coordinator : Daniel Lim
Cinematographer : Amelia Lim / Evon Pang
Video Editor : Evon Pang
Production Assistant : Michael Lerk
Music : Atmospheric Inspiring Piano

COPYRIGHTS 2020 ECHINOIDEA SDN BHD

At the left of the sewing head on the wooden tabletop, the needle shaft moves up and down in accordance with the pulley wheel and foot pedal. The loop-taker cooperates with the needle to sew or bind fabric using slender thread, leaving a neat row of stitches.

Sewing is a practical life skill even before the invention of sewing machines, as per the poem “thread held by a loving mother, made clothes for her wandering son”. Due to the virtuous practice of frugality, almost all housewives sew or alter clothes for their family. When the sewing machine was first launched, it was a luxurious item only the wealthy could afford. Around the mid-20th century, sewing machines indicated a well-to-do family’s wedding gift or dowry, in combination with bicycle, watch, and radio.

Sewing machines eased the tedious task of sewing by improving efficiency. During Malaysia’s economic boost in the 70s-80s, sewing machines became a household item. However the emergence of fast fashion deemed homemade clothing unstylish, sewing machines became eradicated, being used by only a few families and hobbyists. In the event of malfunctioning, it is difficult to send the sewing machine for repair due to its bulk and weight, hence the demand for on-site repair and service.

A call away, Uncle J.S. Lim departs from Port Dickson in his red minivan to the customer’s site. Carrying a blue toolbox, along with over 40 years of experience in machinery repairs, he proficiently fixes faulty sewing machines. He generally services and adjusts the loop timing, the latter being most crucial. The loop-taker seizes thread from the ascending needle, performing a retrograde movement to ensure stitch formation. Difference by a hair’s breadth may cause the shuttle hook and needle to be out of sync, resulting in skipping stitches, therefore the timing should be precise. From old-fashioned hand crank sewing machines, foot pedalled sewing machines, to modern motorized sewing machines, all restored by Uncle Lim’s skillful hands.

In his teens, Uncle Lim was apprenticed to a shop selling bicycles and sewing machines, learning to repair sewing machines from the shopowner’s daughter who was a tailor. His quick wits enabled him to apply the fundamental principles he mastered to other devices such as chainsaws, lawnmowers, electric generators etc. At 32-33 years old, he set up his own shop, only going into semi-retirement two years ago due to lack of customers. During CMCO this May, Uncle Lim’s daughters suggested him to create a Facebook page offering on-site sewing machine maintenance and repair.

“Uncle Lim Repair Shop” was thus created on Facebook, receiving countless enquiries. Starting from small neighbourhoods within Negeri Sembilan, Uncle Lim carries out on-site repairs, catering to mostly ladies and elderly persons from any racial background. His honest conduct and diligence won praises, his customer base grew. Mrs Lim tags along wherever he goes, chatting with customers while taking videos or photos of the service process and the customers’ satisfaction. These files are then uploaded onto Facebook with touching remarks, attracting more likes and followers.

The Facebook page has created far more job opportunities for Uncle Lim, his services expanded across districts and even across states since RMCO in June. Provided the accumulation of a few malfunctioning sewing machines within the same vicinity is enough to offset his travel expenses, he will proceed to schedule appointments. Uncle Lim and wife both have a happy-go-lucky attitude, treating outstation jobs as domestic travels to destinations such as Bidor, Ipoh, and Kampar. Warm reception from customers relieves them of fatigue, local delicacies delightful to savour. The furthest they went was 400km away to Gerik, where they stayed a few days and repaired over 30 sewing machines.

Besides maintenance and repair services, Uncle Lim promotes the practical usage of sewing machines in daily living, sharing beginner tips and tutorials on his Facebook page. He hopes to encourage more people to use sewing machines, or to regain this skill. Moreover, sewing machines are durable, old-fashioned ones still in use throughout several rural areas. Uncle Lim once serviced a hand crank sewing machine more than 150 years old, a precious family inheritance over three generations.

Though sewing machine repair is a declining industry, the skill is still valuable. Repair smiths like Uncle Lim who are willing to provide on-site services extend the usability of sewing machines, issues faced by perplexed customers resolved, thus escaping the sad fate of being sold as scrap metal. Utilizing modern technology such as social media not only unlocked a new chapter in Uncle Lim’s career, but also the rebirth of sewing machines.

Text: Daniel Lim & Pua Hui Wen

有你 UNI Production
Producer : Mok Yii Chek
Coordinator : Daniel Lim
Cinematographer : Amelia Lim / Evon Pang
Video Editor : Amelia Lim
Production Assistant : Michael Lerk
Music : Valentines Day Romantic Piano

COPYRIGHTS 2020 ECHINOIDEA SDN BHD

Situated 5km northwest of Ipoh, Kampung Baru Jelapang is a serene rural village of about 2000 households, the majority being Chinese of Hakka and Cantonese descent, leading simple and contented lives. Despite having settled overseas for more than a century, they still practise ancient cultural customs, including traditional paper offerings at funerals.

On Jalan Pasar which cuts across Kampung Baru Jelapang, stands a row of rustic wooden shops with over 60 years of history, the sole paper offerings store selling handmade white lanterns for funerals nestled within. Although no signboard hangs above the mottled plank doors, it is familiar to all village folks as the “papercraft man” is a household name.

Currently handled by the octogenarian “papercraft lady” Kwan Lean Tay, for decades the shop opens from 6A.M. until noon. The shop has a range of offering items, joss paper and candles supplied by traders, while paper offerings such as deity statues, clothing, and horses, are handmade by her husband Mr Lee Look Sang and her second son Lee Wan Wah.

Madam Kwan devoted the better part of her life to her family and the shop. At 18 years old, she married Mr Lee who used to work at a paper offering shop in Paloh (Ipoh’s former name). They then started their own venture, struggling to make ends meet as the village was under curfew. Facing difficulty in securing premises, they finally managed to purchase the current site. Ever since, husband and wife work together in selling paper offerings, fulfilling filial duty to their parents, and bringing up four children. After her husband’s death last year, Madam Kwan remained in the shop alone, sustaining the small business with help from her son.

Mr Lee Look Sang, nicknamed the “papercraft man”, was renowned for his proficiency in producing fine paper offering items such as clothing, horses, and bicycles. He was also a fortune-teller who could decipher the Chinese Almanac to pick auspicious dates, as well as decipher the Book of Three Lifetimes to help customers pray that things go well. Singaporean customers would purposely telephone overseas to consult Mr Lee. The easygoing Mr Lee did not charge customers a specific fee, a red packet of any amount would do instead. Madam Kwan always gave discounts to regular customers, as she did not engage any worker, and cherish close relationships. Therefore local villagers who moved elsewhere always return to make purchases at this rustic hut.

The second generation heir, nicknamed the “papercraft lad”, Lee Wan Wah mastered his father’s skills, and could single-handedly produce a dozen types of paper offerings including houses, golden and silver bridges, golden and silver hills, boys and girls, coin trees, lazy chairs, and cars. During his childhood, his mother often brought him along to the shop. Stirred by curiosity, he started helping his father to make paper offerings when he was 16 years old. He then took his father’s advice to pick up another skill, thus becoming apprenticed to a tailor in Paloh. Upon completing his apprenticeship, he returned to work in Kampung Baru Jelapang while also helping his father to produce paper offerings. As Uncle Lee realised that the tailor industry is declining, he thought of a brilliant idea: to make life-sized paper clothing. He surveyed departmental stores for designs. “Actual Faking” was popular for a time, even Singaporean traders discovered its market potential.

Due to advancing age, currently Uncle Lee only accepts orders for small scale common funeral offerings, instead of the wide variety produced by his counterparts. His workshop is set up beside his house, starting from the basic procedure of making the frame, shredding attap into appropriate thickness and bend according to size and height, finishing by pasting paper. Uncle Lee also finds pleasure in his work. Due to his passion for calligraphy, he did not progress to computerized printing, but sticking to the tradition. Each lantern he made bears his tidy calligraphy. Some of his paper offerings are on display at his mother’s old shop, others are kept in the workshop or delivered to customers.

As lifestyles change, people are less superstitious, younger generations no longer worship deities at home. Yet Uncle Lee is confident that paper offerings would not be wiped out since the religious goods business is still thriving. However offerings are gradually simplified, customers generally ask traders for set packs, or buy substandard set packs online from China. Handiwork that used to be a livelihood has been commercialized into a different business model. Youth nowadays being uninterested in this industry, none of Uncle Lee’s children are willing to inherit, the skills of making paper offerings may be lost after having sustained two generations.

Text: Daniel Lim & Pua Hui Wen

有你 UNI Production
Producer : Mok Yii Chek
Coordinator : Daniel Lim
Cinematographer : Amelia Lim / Evon Pang
Drone : Daniel Lim
Video Editor : Evon Pang
Production Assistant : Michael Lerk
Music : Is A Solo Piano

COPYRIGHTS 2020 ECHINOIDEA SDN BHD

Rice wine making is a novelty of the CháoShàn population. Blessed with bountiful mountain streams and paddy fields, CháoShàn was famous for sweet rice wine since the Northern Song dynasty. At the beginning of the 20th century, Tay Chek Soo founded ‘Tay Miang Huat’ wine distribution company and ‘Miang Miang’ distillery in ShànTóu city of China. Together with his four younger brothers, they became established in the industry. Three years later, their operations expanded to Singapore and across Malaysia. In Melaka, a store at Jalan Pantai and a distillery at Bukit Cina were set up under ‘Tay Miang Guan’. In Kuala Lumpur, a shop at Kuchai Lama and a distillery at Petaling Jaya were set up under ‘Tong Ah’. Though a distillery was set up in Penang, it was later destroyed during the Japanese Occupation.

Among the handful of liquor manufacturing licenses approved by the Malaysian government, the Tay family acquired two, one of them for Tong Ah Distillery. Inaugurated in 1954, it was the first industrial warehouse in Section 51, Petaling Jaya. Over half a century, Tong Ah keeps up the traditional way of producing samsu and liqueur, the equipment and tools in the distillery being in use since its commencement of business. The white European-style building stood the test of time since colonial rule, and bore witness to three generations of inheritance. The marketing manager, Jason Tay, is the grandson of the founder. Jason’s father was also committed to the distillery for the better part of his life as a microbiologist.

Since the tender age of three, Jason tagged along as his father went to work, enjoying the attention of many uncles and aunties who helped him to build castles out of empty cartons. He even had a photo of himself posing on a forklift. Eventually as he grew up, he started sharing menial tasks in the distillery, such as brushing logos onto cartons and moving cartons, until he went abroad in the 80’s. While studying engineering in the United Kingdom, Jason remain firmly attached to his family, therefore he also enrolled in courses at a prestigious brewery institute. Later on, instead of settling down in the UK, Jason chose to return to Malaysia to be with his family.

Jason recollected childhood memories when the distillery business was thriving, up to 50 staff members hailing from varying racial backgrounds work together in harmony. About 20 of them were involved in fermentation and distillation procedures, then a blend master blends the alcohol. There were also Malay staff who mainly clean and dry glass bottles. Another dozen staff were in charge of bottling, putting on product stickers, and packing into cartons. Dwindling demand for rice wine, as well as reluctance to work in 3D industries, led to reduced workforce in the distillery now.

A couple of senior employees remain in Tong Ah, including Eddie, who has been a distiller for 30-odd years, and Manjit, who is a second-generation staff. Manjit operates the industrial steam boiler, which generates hot water and steam for distillation. Manjit’s father was the first-generation boiler operator, familiar with its structure, parts, standard operating procedures, and daily maintenance. The boiler has many potential hazards which may result in explosion, therefore the operator must be very attentive as to prevent unfortunate incidents. Hence, Manjit was apprenticed to his father and later on succeeded his position in the distillery.

A distiller also plays a key role in the distillery, overseeing the fermentation and distillation processes. Also a third-generation descendant of the Tay family, Eddie and Jason are cousins. Eddie joined the distillery to fulfill his father’s wish, starting off with the basics and mastered the work routine. First of all, the rice is steamed in a huge pot, let cool, and mixed with yeast for pre-fermentation. He adds sugar and water to enhance the conversion of starch into alcohol, the mixture is then transferred to an underground tank for 1-2 weeks of anaerobic fermentation. After that, the alcohol is pumped to the distillation column through roof pipes, where steam is injected from the boiler for vaporization.

At present, Tong Ah uses a post-World War II French fractionating column. Liquid alcohol flows through the column, impeded by a series of plates which continuously allow alcohol to evaporate and rise, and water to condense. Hence, each segment towards the top of the column yields a higher alcohol content. Eddie needs to control the operating temperature below 100°C, so that water does not evaporate and dilute the alcohol. He observes the distilled alcohol through a viewing glass, employing a hydrometer to test the density, which ideally achieve 70%.

The distilled alcohol flows into a tank in the bonded warehouse, and transferred into standard 270L drums for batch quantity calculation and storage. To ease customs inspection and audit, Eddie marks the product code, batch and manufacture date on a wooden post. The distilled alcohol then undergoes mixing by the blendmaster, and infused for a few days in blending tanks before bottling. Prior to distribution and sale, excise duty must be paid and excise stamps affixed to the bottles. A number of Hakka restaurants in Kuala Lumpur use ‘Tong Ah Sam Ching’, ‘Wu Chia Pi’ and ‘Mei Kwai Lau’ in their cooking, whereas ‘Good Luck Hiong Ng’ and ‘White Stag’ are popular with bak kut teh restaurants. Meanwhile ‘Wu Chia Pi’ is also used as ritual offerings, ‘White Stag’ for confinement food, and the elderly consume medicinal liquors.

In the event of Jason’s father death two years ago, Jason resolved to invigorate the distillery’s former glory, so that this century-old craftsmanship gains better exposure. Complying with current trends, Tong Ah produces glutinous rice wine with a variety of innovative flavours, as well as adopting social media marketing. On the other hand, the distillery is open for tours, Jason is happy to share his knowledge.

Online Shop：https://farmersbar.com.my/collections/vendors?q=Malacca%20Rice%20Wine

Text: Daniel Lim & Pua Hui Wen

有你 UNI Production
Producer : Mok Yii Chek
Coordinator : Daniel Lim
Cinematographer : Amelia Lim / Evon Pang
Video Editor : Amelia Lim
Production Assistant : Michael Lerk
Music : Valentine

COPYRIGHTS 2020 ECHINOIDEA SDN BHD

The sole remaining traditional Cantonese restaurant in Kuala Lumpur situated on the bustling Jalan Pudu for over 70 years, Sek Yuen, means a suitable gathering place. Both the exterior and interior of the restaurant retain its olden charm, the very same fans, tables, and chairs being in use since commence of business, where the marble tabletops became faded due to frequent scrubbing. In the kitchen stood two woodfire stoves and a wood-fired steamer which is seldom seen, the key in producing traditional flavours. Dishes cooked using woodfire stoves have a special taste, without necessity to be complemented by elaborate plating. Apart from making the mouth water, the rich authentic aromas that fill the restaurant transport people back to the past, glimpsing the way of life since 50 years ago. 

Pudu is situated in the outskirts of Kuala Lumpur City Centre, being one of the early Chinese communal settlements, it was called “half jungle” during the end of the 19th century before being fully developed. The British colonial government built a railway station beside the Pudu fire brigade station, transforming the area into a transport hub connecting Jalan Petaling and Jalan Cheras, causing both population and economic boom within Jalan Pudu. The Pudu Wet Market was the main wholesale market, every day crowds flock in since dawn. Back then when entertainment was scarce, there were three cinemas in Pudu, crowds did not disperse until late night. 

Founders of Sek Yuen Restaurant——the three Phang siblings discovered an excellent business opportunity, starting by selling wanton noodles in a roadside food cart, they slowly saved up to purchase a shop lot. In 1948, a simple hut was built at the current site. The whole family worked together, selling dim sum from 5.30A.M. onwards, then noodles and hot food from 11.30A.M. till late night. At the same time, they hosted banquets and feasts, flourishing with guests each night, thus gaining fame and recognition as one of the four major restaurants in Kuala Lumpur. With increasing numbers of banquets, Sek Yuen once imported containers of alcohol, an impressive feat in former times. Even British colonial government officers frequented Sek Yuen, attracting other renowned guests as well. 

In the mid-1950s, having developed rapidly together with Kuala Lumpur city, Sek Yuen was granted approval for building premises. The occupied spot stood out from the row of shops as an individual building, with pyramidal steps at the entrance, “Sek Yuen Restaurant” painted in red against white walls. Another interesting fact is due to the restaurant being located on an odd-numbered row between lots 313 and 315, its lot number is ingeniously assigned as 313/1. As the restaurant prospered, in 1971 Sek Yuen acquired a double-storey air-conditioned building at the neighbouring lot 315, improving its standards so that customers could enjoy delicious dishes in a comfortable environment. During the new site opening, they introduced their in-house research-and-developed Pipa Duck as a signature dish, a must-have to date. 

Since the founding of Sek Yuen, members of the Phang family have devoted themselves to operating the restaurant, upholding the family business established by their patriarchs. Helping out at the restaurant is a collective memory of the younger generations. Some of them work in the restaurant after completing their studies, Pang Yong Sui and Phang Siew Lake from the second generation lead the kitchen and barbecue stations respectively, dedicating their youth to Sek Yuen. Third-generation person-in-charge Phang Kwai Choong respects the elders’ commitment, as a token of gratitude, he returns to help in managing and handling the family business after some years of venturing out. Sek Yuen is now reined by the fourth generation, apart from about a dozen of family members working full-time in the restaurant, the remaining 60-70 family members lend a helping hand every now and then. During Chinese New Year, even the fifth generation comes to help, the entire family busy in the bustling restaurant. 

Modern dietary trends demand for fast service, sophisticated traditional dishes consumption declines, yet loyal gastronomes are still willing to indulge in authentic Cantonese fare at Sek Yuen. The sustenance of Sek Yuen lies in not only cooperative behaviour among family members, but also the involvement of younger generations who bring upon business model innovation to boost revenue. For instance, due to Covid-19, they launched delivery packages through online platforms, delivering tantalizing food to customers in person. Working hand-in-hand, the Phang family strives to maintain Sek Yuen Restaurant.

Text: Daniel Lim & Pua Hui Wen

有你 UNI Production
Producer : Mok Yii Chek
Coordinator : Daniel Lim
Cinematographer : Amelia Lim / Evon Pang
Drone : Daniel Lim
Video Editor : Amelia Lim
Production Assistant : Michael Lerk
Music : Wonderland

COPYRIGHTS 2020 ECHINOIDEA SDN BHD

Walking downstream of the Melaka River, passing by Jambatan Kampung Jawa with 130 years of history linking Jalan Kampung Pantai and Kampung Jawa, a wooden bridge rebuilt with metal by Chinese businessmen Tan Oon Guan and his two brothers in the late 19th century, who also restructured Kampung Jawa into a “New Street” with well-planned brick houses and developed lanes. Ever since, business activities on both shores got along closely, during daytime the “New Street” is a bustling trade zone, whereas turning into a pleasure-seeking and extravagant entertainment spot upon night-time, an area combining both work and amusement.

A century since, the flourishing “New Street” is long gone, its lanes (Jalan Jawa and Kampung Jawa) receded into serenity, leaving behind double-storey shophouses built in a fusion of Asian and Western styles which was popular back then, housing several traditional shops with over 100 years in existence, taking a sneak peek at former local cultural scenes. Among them, Sin Hiap Hin, a bar established in the 1920’s, maintaining its original British-influenced appearance, the solid wooden bar countertop with a rounded arc is still in use to date.

Pushing apart the red iron shutters, a variety of liquor bottles are arranged on layers of wall racks, the wooden bar countertop is full of marks where liquor glasses were set down over the hundred years. The antique furnishing and interior is never renovated, in the bar sits Aunty Lee Lian Suan, also known as Doris, wife of the 4th generation successor of Sin Hiap Hin. She pours out the customer’s choice of liquor with a smiling face, be it traditional Chinese herbal liquor such as Notoginseng liquor, Acanthopanax bark liquor, Perfect Tonic; beers popular with Caucasians, novelty rice wines, or rose liqueur. The most special type of liquor served being rice wine manufactured in Malacca by Tay Miang Guan Priquor Distillery established in 1908, with a range of innovative flavours such as pandan, lychee, coffee etc.

Sin Hiap Hin holds a liquor retail license granted by the British colonial government, legally selling liquor by the British colonial measurement unit peg, where half peg is equivalent to 30ml and one peg 60ml. Pure liquor is being sold, not mixed with other alcohol, water or soda, only a few ice cubes may be added. In the olden days, this type of bars were popular with fishermen and labourers making a living near Malacca River due to low prices. These customers often got drunk, wreaking havoc and owing credit which they never repaid. Moreover, the upper storey of the shophouse was an opium den where people used to gather to smoke. Sin Hiap Hin survived tenaciously throughout the years despite the turbulent environment, having experienced the British colonisation, the Japanese Occupation, the Federation of Malaya, to finally independence and the forming of Malaysia, still operating in its original site.

Since Aunty Doris married into the family in 1973, besides doing household chores, she also helps her husband and father-in-law to manage the bar. A few years after her father-in-law passed away, her husband’s legs became incapacitated, therefore she has to shoulder all responsibilities on her own. Turning 69 years old, Aunty Doris is probably the oldest bartender. Although selling an array of liquors, she barely drinks, merely looking upon as others enjoy. With a liquor bottle in one hand and steel measurement cup in the other, Aunty Doris pours either amber-coloured or clear liquor into glasses while chatting brightly with customers, making them feel at ease.

Over the forty-odd years, Aunty Doris handles her husband’s family business while taking care of her ill spouse, enduring various hardships to raise four children, as well as purchasing the shophouse they once rented. Eventually elderly regular customers passed away, changes in lifestyle and spending habits caused business to drop. Fortunately in recent years, the bar gained popularity and internet exposure, introducing slight improvements. Aunty Doris witnessed the flourish and decline of “New Street”, former neighbouring hardware shops, gold shops, wooden clog shops, vegetable shops, and barber shops are mostly closed for good. As her children grew up and moved out, the business that she once relied on now helps her to kill time.

In the century-old bar, each cup of liquor sold contains precious memories, accumulated into the ups and downs of a city. Be it tourists with a fleeting visit or regular customers with frequent visits, Aunty Doris does not hesitate in sharing life stories in the historical city.

Text: Daniel Lim & Pua Hui Wen

有你 UNI Production
Producer : Mok Yii Chek
Coordinator : Daniel Lim
Cinematographer : Amelia Lim / Evon Pang
Video Editor : Michael Lerk
Production Assistant : Michael Lerk
Music : Oakwoord Station – Kind of a Miracle from YouTube

COPYRIGHTS 2020 ECHINOIDEA SDN BHD

Charcoal is the first among seven daily necessities, the rest being rice, oil, salt, sauce, vinegar, and tea. Since ancient times, charcoal has been important as fuel in daily life. Cooking food using traditional charcoal-fueled stoves is tricky and laborious, requiring constant attention to the heat and doneness of the food. As the dishes are heated evenly, charcoal fumes lent a special aroma to the food. Besides, charcoal has absorbability properties, therefore water boiled with charcoal is velvety and odorless. Once a must-have in every single household, with the advent of gas and electrical appliances, charcoal has now fallen out of favour, charcoal stores are barely seen nowadays.

On Jalan Trus in Johor Bahru, among the row of shophouses opposite the ancient temple, the large signboard of Yong Heng Charcoal Shop could be seen clearly, the sole remaining charcoal shop in the region. The daughters of the late founder, octogenarian Madam Chong Shen Chen (transliteration) and sexagenarian Madam Chong Lian Chen (transliteration) persisted to work, currently helping their nephew, who is the third generation owner to run this seven-decade old family business.

When Chinese forefathers migrated to Malaysia, they sustained this ancient wisdom of utilising natural resources, for instance mangrove wood, to produce fuel thus solving the most crucial daily needs. In earlier days, street peddlers sold charcoal door-to-door on bicycles or tricycles, some merchants also distributed charcoal from local kilns so that customers may purchase in-store. Upon stepping into the corridor of Yong Heng Charcoal Shop, the mottled wooden plaque hanging on top of the entrance brings you back in time.

Towards the end of the 1940’s, when this plaque was newly hung, charcoal was the mainstream fuel used in cooking. Except for the table in front, the entire shop was filled with bundles of charcoal, the floor and walls stained with charcoal dust. Before plastic packaging became popular, charcoal is delivered in loose piles on lorries from the kiln, requiring scooping manually to transfer the stock into the shop. The charcoal is then sorted according to sizes and tied tightly into paper-wrapped bundles to prevent humidity absorption. Working ceaselessly, the family’s clothes and fingers are smothered in black dust.

Hanging on the wall at the rear of the shop are uniquely-shaped charcoal, a collection by the two Chong sisters, full of fond childhood memories where they work happily together as a family. Since a young age, they have been helping their father in packaging charcoal, therefore whenever they came across charcoal pieces with special shapes, they would keep these natural artwork. At present, charcoal stock comes with complete plastic packaging, without any need to sort, just unload and arrange. As gas stoves and electrical appliances gained popularity due to being more convenient, demand for charcoal declined steeply, only hawkers and customers who persist in using charcoal will make regular purchases. During festival celebrations, sales increase due to preparing customary cuisine. Their usual pastime is looking after the shop as well as chatting with customers and old neighbours, leading a simple and joyful life.

A daily necessity, a traditional industry, a specialty store. Improvement in living conditions meant elimination of certain elements, the kitchen evolved from a dusty environment into a clean and convenient place. There is still demand for charcoal despite its being outdated.

Text: Daniel Lim & Pua Hui Wen

有你 UNI Production
Producer : Mok Yii Chek
Coordinator : Daniel Lim
Cinematographer : Amelia Lim / Evon Pang
Video Editor : Amelia Lim
Production Assistant : Michael Lerk
Music : Invisible Beauty

COPYRIGHTS 2020 ECHINOIDEA SDN BHD

Cities developed around waterways, people settled along canals. Sungai Segget, the “Mother River” of Johor Bahru, has been an important marine transportation connection since the city’s cultivation in 1855, the basis of the city’s economic growth. In the earlier days, Chinese forefathers who migrated to Johor Bahru settled along the shores of the 4-kilometre long Sungai Segget which naturally split the city into East and West shores. Spurred by famous entrepreneur Mr Wong Ah Fook, the East shore is full of commercial buildings where consumer and entertainment services prevailed, while the West shore is pioneered by the most powerful Kangchu in Peninsular Malaysia Mr Tan Hiok Nee, its longest avenue Jalan Trus is where the local Chinese community mainly convene.

Johor Bahru underwent drastic changes over the past century. Under the Sungai Segget Rejuvenation Project carried out by the city council, merely 300 metres of the river course remain. An ancient temple and most double-storey shophouses were retained on Jalan Trus, however as Chinese guild halls and enterprises gradually moved out, the area transformed into “Little India” with Indian clothing shops, gold shops, and a few old stores which stood for decades, such as Sin Keng Wah Mattress Shop.

Established in 1964, Sin Keng Wah is known for handmade pure cotton pillows, bolsters, baby cots, and other bedding items, as well as customization services. Formerly, the shop was operated by a Singaporean, whom the father of the current proprietor Mr Yeow used to work for. During the economic malaise leading to Singapore’s separation from Malaysia, he decided to sell out, thus Mr Yeow’s father and elder brother bought over and renamed it to Keng Wah. Now the second generation owner, Mr Yeow Sien Soon prefixed a “New” to the shop name since his succession. All the while, they rented the same shoplot from an old landlord who knows them thoroughly, maintaining a fond relationship as he lives upstairs. The ancient plaque bearing “Eng Seng” which hung on the upper left corner of the shop entrance was the signboard of a grocery store the landlord used to operate.

Founded over half a century, Sin Keng Wah earned a good reputation for quality bedding that are fluffy, well ventilated, has thermoregulation effects, as well as absorbs moisture. Mr Yeow uses natural kapok cotton imported from Thailand, without mixing any impurities. Lately there has been a raised awareness of health benefits using pure cotton bedding, especially people with backaches or night sweats, and even newborn babies. Thus they accumulated regular customers including the Johor royal sultanate. By chance, Mr Yeow accepted plenty of customized orders from the royal family, and often visits the palace to measure the respective furnitures, as well as seeking audience with the Johor sultan. He said in jest that despite facing pressure from the stern guards and His Majesty’s grandeur, he is touched by the sultan’s friendly attitude, greeting him with “Ah Pek” in a sonorous voice.

In this era of mechanization, traditional handmade items are getting increasingly rare. Mr Yeow persisted to manually sew bedding, ensuring that kapok fibres are distributed evenly without bulky bits, so that users could fall asleep comfortably. Moreover, the ability to customize different shapes and angles could not be replaced by machinery. The skills involved in manufacturing bedding could not be mastered within a short timeframe. From picking cotton, pinning threads into place, cutting fabric, measuring inlet, to using a sewing machine, the procedures are very challenging. The flexibility of the fabric needs to be taken into account in order to ensure the finished product meets the correct size. Besides, delicate kapok fluff may cause respiratory irritation. To avoid absorbing moisture during storage, kapok is kept in a stifling storeroom. Poor work conditions increased difficulty to hire employees.

63-year-old Mr Yeow inherited the family business for 46 years, recollecting how other two fellow tradesmen in Johor Bahru closed down due to no successors, he is glad that his eldest son Boon Teck takes over this traditional mattress shop. From being an uninterested layman to getting guidance from his strict father, and taking the initiative to explore this trade, Boon Teck is able to work independently after about ten years. Since graduating in 2000, he gave up his ambition of being a painter to stay and help his father in the family business. Moving on, he recognises the cultural value of this trade and sparked interest in designing new products, as well as utilising social media to expand customer base.

The Yeow family passes on the skills of crafting bedding from father to son, the dented sides of the century-old workbench in Sin Keng Wah is where three generations of tradesmen sharpened needles, witnessing that mastery is achieved from experience. The bedding is not only stuffed with pure kapok, but also cultural heritage and warm feelings.

Text: Daniel Lim & Pua Hui Wen

有你 UNI Production
Producer : Mok Yii Chek
Coordinator : Daniel Lim
Cinematographer : Amelia Lim / Evon Pang
Video Editor : Michael Lerk
Production Assistant : Michael Lerk
Music : Tido Kang from YouTube

COPYRIGHTS 2020 ECHINOIDEA SDN BHD