Category: Traditional Trades

As the clock strikes 11A.M., Uncle Ling Hing Kooi rolls up the shutters of Sin Han Seong Restaurant, sunlight pours into the half-brick and half-wood double-storey old shophouse, lending brightness and warmth to the interior. The ancient wooden counter is his fortress, and the small round table opposite is laden with glass beer bottles, containing not beer but homemade barley drink instead. Uncle Ling arranges dimsum handmade in-house into the steaming cabinet, and greets customers as they enter. At least one of the signature dishes will appear on each table: spicy and sour fish fillets, spicy and sour pork ribs, Fuzhou mixed vegetables, spicy and sour fish maw soup, red rice wine noodles, or Fuzhou braised noodles.

Ayer Tawar in Perak is situated between Ipoh and Lumut, adjacent to Sitiawan. Most of the residents are Chinese, originating from Fuzhou in China, who retain their ancestral dialect and food culture even after a century of settlement. Sin Han Seong Restaurant was established within a row of shophouses facing the main road, originally belonged to the same landowner as the cinema behind it, built around 1935. Previously named Han Seong Teahouse, it was renamed Sin Han Seong upon changing ownership to Ling Hing Kooi’s father in 1954.

The senior Mr Ling hailed from China, at first he settled in Kampung Koh working as a hot kitchen cook, then he moved to work in Ayer Tawar, where he acquired a shop and brought his family over. In the face of difficult living conditions at the time, the entire family worked together to run the restaurant. Upholding the hardworking spirit of the Fuzhou clan, they open for long hours every day. Serving bao, dimsum, and porridge from 6A.M. onwards, so that rubber tappers may fill their stomachs before work; cooking hot meals all day long to cater for local residents, especially at night when many Indian customers dine in; late night supper spot for movie-goers. Through joint effort by all family members, Sin Han Seong’s business flourished, and the second floor was expanded as a banquet hall, which hosted various banquets during the 1970s and 1980s.

In the 1990s, emerging market competition dealt a blow to Sin Han Seong’s glory, therefore they focused on dine-in foodservice instead. After the senior Mr Ling retired, his seven sons take turns to run the restaurant. However, as the second generation grew older and some passed away, they resumed joint operation, with shorter opening hours from 11A.M. to 7P.M. Among the three siblings still actively involved in the business, the eldest brother is semi-retired and only helps occasionally. The fourth brother, Ling Hing Kooi, is in charge of operations and beverage-making. He sources goods at the wet market in the morning, then rushes back to prepare barley drinks, cook rice, and take care of general affairs at the restaurant. The youngest brother, Ling Hing Tee, is in charge of the cooking, together with two nephews and a few hired help.

Since the opening of the West Coast Expressway, lesser travellers drop by the town, business declined but fortunately there still are regular customers. On weekends and public holidays, foodies flock from Kuala Lumpur and Penang to get a taste of authentic Fuzhou cuisine. During Chinese New Year, when those working outstation return to their hometown, they would come for the nostalgic childhood taste. The cinema behind the restaurant ceased operations 20 or 30 years ago, most of the shophouses in the same row were abandoned due to disrepair. Word has it that the government intends to reclaim the area to widen public roads, and lawyers are handling property valuation. Uncle Ling is already in his 70s, all the restaurant employees are also ageing, it is beyond their capabilities to start over in a new place. As his nephews have no intention of taking over the restaurant, there is a possibility that it will eventually close down.

Decades of serving Fuzhou-style delicacies, shaping collective food memories of Ayer Tawar residents, Sin Han Seong restaurant has a warm atmosphere where most conversations are carried out in Fuzhou dialect, family and friends gather happily around tables full of sumptuous dishes that are mostly red in colour. These scenes may no longer exist in the future, but forever sealed in memory.

有你 UNI Production
Producer : Daniel Lim
Cinematographer : Amelia Lim / Michael Lerk
Drone : Daniel Lim
Video Editor : Amelia Lim
Copywriter : Pua Hui Wen

COPYRIGHTS 2023 ECHINOIDEA SDN BHD

Towering wooden shelves stand within the unpretentious shophouse, seemingly unobstructed yet hinting at mysteries, head upstairs and find the storage place with mezzanine floors. All kinds of hardware accessories are arranged in an orderly manner, according to category, brand, and size. The yellowing labels indicate the passage of time, yet the neat marker pen handwriting remains legible. Both veterans and rookies are able to quickly and accurately locate products that customers need. The inventory is a mix of new and old items, such as old-fashioned paraffin blow torch, drop-forged steel wrenches directly imported from Europe, as well as safety boots and hammers which are in high demand recently.

Tai Kwong Hardware Trading occupies a pre-war double-storey shophouse at the first section of Jalan Petaling, near the intersection with Jalan Tun Tan Cheng Lock. Since its establishment in 1945, there has been no elaborate furnishings, only solid wooden shelves expanding upwards due to increasing inventory, and self-built mezzanine floors which made up the third and fourth floors. The five original founders (Soo, Lee, Chong, Kim, and Tan) all passed away, currently the second and third generations are in charge, with long-serving staff of 30-40 years, including loyal employees promoted to directorship.

Hardware trading covers a comprehensive range of materials, from large hardware such as sheet metal and construction materials, to small hardware such as tools and accessories, necessary in day to day life. Due to different target markets, large hardware resort to wholesale distribution while small hardware are sold retail. Tai Kwong is among the very few companies that operate both a retail shop selling small hardware and a warehouse selling large hardware such as bronze foil and lead sheets.

The early days of Tai Kwong’s establishment coincided with post-World War II reconstruction, hardware was in high demand, the founders had to carry heavy bags of cement on their shoulders to make deliveries to construction sites. Putting down firm roots in Petaling Street not only relied on their blood and sweat, but also their active thinking to bring in a wide variety of semi-finished hardware and appliances. Despite being strategically located, the shoplot does not have sufficient space for lorries to load and unload goods, therefore Tai Kwong set up a warehouse at Jalan Sungai Besi, later on relocated to Jalan Chan Sow Lin upon land reclamation for Mass Rapid Transit project.

In recent years, the major clientele has shifted from construction companies on credit terms to foreign labourers on cash terms. Tai Kwong’s long-standing reputation has a competitive edge, as customers feel at ease in making purchases. Due to the sizable variety and complexity of goods stocked, the front desk staff still practice handwritten bills and account ledgers, while utilizing a computer system to keep track of inventory. Certain items are considered out-of-date due to changing industrial standards and became slow-moving, therefore left to gather dust until collectors chance to come on a treasure hunt.

In ever-changing times, the business model must constantly evolve to suit changing consumer needs. It is a common understanding shared by sales and procurement manager Mr Lee Zhan Wei and finance director Mdm Liew Fui Tse. Eventually all in-store transactions will be computerized to reduce human errors. Taking a leaf from various traditional hardware tradings that achieved modernization, Tai Kwong is confident to succeed in doing so.

Hardware stores are essential in daily lives. Tai Kwong Hardware remain standing in Petaling Street for nearly eight decades, undergoing changes and transformation, supplying building materials as well as household necessities. Despite generational differences, business partners and staff share the same vision, working in cooperation towards a better future.

有你 UNI Production
Producer : Daniel Lim
Cinematographer : Amelia Lim / Michael Lerk
Drone : Daniel Lim
Video Editor : Amelia Lim
Copywriter : Pua Hui Wen

COPYRIGHTS 2023 ECHINOIDEA SDN BHD

Written in red on a white plaque is the trade name “Bee Sin”, as the blue shutter doors slowly open, Lim Choon Fung hangs various schoolbags and shoes over the shop entrance, then he sets up wooden stands to display school uniforms, stationery and other daily necessities in front of the shop. Hanging at the left side of the shopfront is a pastel painting entitled “Wind blowing in the paddy fields”, sketched by Lim. Besides operating this traditional foreign goods store, he teaches co-curricular art classes.  

The row of century-old double-storey shophouse is located at Jalan Telaga Air in Butterworth, Penang. Near the intersection with Jalan Kampung Gajah, where shipping container trucks frequent, kicking up a dust storm every time they pass by, worsening the shophouses’ dreary appearance. A stone’s throw away from Butterworth Port, Jalan Telaga Air used to be teeming with textile stores, footwear stores, and foreign goods stores, mostly helmed by Chinese merchants. Hit by financial crises in the 80’s to 90’s, several businesses either moved out or closed down, the row of shophouses are slowly taken over by Indians selling traditional flower garlands, Bee Sin became the only remaining Chinese-run shop.

Lim Choon Fung spent over 70 years in this shophouse, from school-age to teenage, adulthood and marriage, till now in his seventies. During his childhood, his father operated a coffee shop near the port, the family stayed upstairs at the nearby shophouse while the shop downstairs was rented to a hairdresser. Upon graduating from high school, Lim shouldered the responsibility as the eldest child of contributing to the household income by setting up a foreign goods business. Bee Sin opened its doors in 1969 during the nationwide emergency, curfews were imposed from 6pm, therefore leaving a mark in Lim’s memory.

At first, due to limited capital, Lim could only afford to purchase on credit, selling an assortment of goods from hair cream, scissors, to clothing and socks. He gradually worked out which are the top-selling products and focused on selling school supplies such as uniforms, shoes and bags. Before the start of each new school year, parents would bring their children to try on uniforms and buy school supplies. As customers swarmed into the small shop, Lim’s siblings would lend a helping hand.

Lim channeled his hard-earned money to fund his younger brother to further studies abroad in Australia. Struggling to make ends meet, Lim resorted to side hustles, utilizing his talents in painting to teach art classes. The headmaster of SJK (C) Kwang Hwa granted him an opportunity to teach co-curricular art classes at the school, so he went by bicycle, bringing his art supplies and materials along. Apart from that, Lim joined numerous art exhibitions and gained fame. He even co-exhibited with renowned local and foreign painters.

Having worked diligently for half a century, Lim is not rich but gets by comfortably. His younger siblings achieved professional success, till now they still help each other out. With the digitalization of businesses, online shopping offers more convenience than retail stores, dealing a severe blow to Lim. Recently a fallen tree damaged the rear of the building, Lim and his wife had to stay with their daughter, after some persuasion he agreed to cease operations and retire. Before the lease term ends, he contributed most school supplies to SJK (C) Kwang Hwa in tribute to the former headmaster, to help underprivileged pupils. Meanwhile the remaining inventory are on clearance sale.

Bee Sin’s lease expires on 31st December 2022, and will close permanently upon stock clearance. Lim Choon Fung has stopped teaching due to vision impairment, and will be undergoing eye treatment at a hospital. After many years of hard work, Lim finally gets to enjoy a peaceful retirement together with his wife.

有你 UNI Production
Producer : Daniel Lim
Cinematographer : Amelia Lim / Evon Pang / Michael Lerk
Drone : Daniel Lim
Video Editor : Michael Lerk
Copywriter : Pua Hui Wen

COPYRIGHTS 2023 ECHINOIDEA SDN BHD