Handmade Joss Sticks in Kampung Baru Rasah

Grasp hundreds of fine bamboo sticks, align them, dip in water, coat with finely ground sandalwood powder. Swirl the wrists in a “blooming” motion, the powder that float up in the air will attach to the bamboo. Repeat the above steps thrice, produce batch by batch, spread out on racks and dry under the sun. Once dried, dye the base and pack. 67-year-old Foo Kok Keong inherited the skill of handmaking joss sticks, passed down over three generations in his family, and runs his own manufacturing site – Tanyi Enterprise at Kampung Baru Rasah, Seremban.

Mr Foo’s grandfather hailed from Anxi County in China, and settled in Kampung Baru Rasah. Utilizing his skill in handmaking joss sticks, he founded a family-run workshop named Hiong Yee Teng. Blessed with a shrewd mind, apart from handmaking joss sticks, he also purchased some joss paper and praying materials, filled a large basket and went around for miles selling them on a bicycle. After getting the business on track, he started production on a larger scale in 1963, hiring numerous helpers, doing wholesale and exports. The second-generation owner of Hiong Yee Teng is Mr Foo’s uncle. Not only did he inherited his father’s business, but also his shrewd mind, expanding to import sandalwood as well. 

Mr Foo Kok Keong is interested in handmaking joss sticks since a young age. He begun shadowing his uncle when he was 10 years old, learning the craft. After a few months of hands-on, he gained approval from his grandfather, and started to get paid according to the amount of joss sticks he made. While he was still a student, Mr Foo worked hard to earn his own pocket money, and saved up to buy little luxuries at the time, such as a radio, a bicycle. After graduating from high school, he went outstation and overseas to work, nevertheless he finally chose to return to help his uncle manage the family business, and later branched out on his own.

Back when entertainment was scarce, relatives and young people from the neighbourhood would come over for fun, and gradually learnt how to make joss sticks. In the 70s to 80s, there were lots of swine farms in Kampung Baru Rasah, after facing closure due to swine fever, a dozen or so were converted into joss stick manufacturing sites. Since the 90s, machine-made joss sticks became commonly available, moreover joss sticks imported from China are way cheaper, hitting the joss stick manufacturing industry hard, only the Foo family’s businesses managed to stay afloat. Hiong Yee Teng embraced machinery, whereas Tanyi Enterprise became the sole remaining handmade joss stick manufacturer. Foo Kok Keong and his nephew are in charge of production, while his sister takes care of packaging. 

Handmaking joss sticks puts physical abilities to the test. A handful of bamboo sticks already weigh over two kilograms, becoming even heavier after dipping in water and coating in sandalwood powder, yet still need to swirl the wrists in order to “bloom”. During the process, one must pay close attention, joss sticks that are stuck together, broken, or flawed, must be immediately discarded. The procedure may seem easy, but repetitive and dull, trying one’s patience. Mastery is achieved after having endured all the above and countless hands-on practice. 

Praying with joss sticks is an important element in Chinese traditional culture and folk beliefs. Joss sticks are used to pay respects to deities and ancestors, as well as purifying the space and the mind. Joss sticks made using natural ingredients exude a mellow aroma, fresh and pure, and would not cause discomfort even when smelling up close. Besides handmaking the signature sandalwood joss sticks, Mr Foo also blends incense powders according to customers’ preference and demand, such as agarwood, kayu raja, lakawood, or even sulfur. His biggest satisfaction arises from customers making repeat purchases because they like the aroma he blended.

Nowadays craftspeople handmaking joss sticks are increasingly rare, skill inheritance is endangered. Mr Foo Kok Keong spent the better part of his life making joss sticks, and is still passionate about it, never getting tired of carrying out the tedious work in a hot and stuffy environment on a daily basis.

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【Locality Info】

Kampung Baru Rasah is the first Chinese New Village established nationwide, as well as the largest in Negeri Sembilan, spanning about 200 acres, located about 3km away from Seremban town centre.

According to folk studies research conducted by scholars, the name “Rasah” originated from:

  1. Rassak(a tree in the family Dipterocarpaceae), a type of wood suitable for boat-building.
  2. Asah(meaning “to sharpen” in Malay), in the early days, pioneers came upriver to this area covered in dense forest, so they sharpened their knives and sickles on the rocks by the river to clear the natural terrain. They named the river “Asah”, which gradually became “Rasah”.

In the early days, Rasah had tin mines and rubber plantations, where large numbers of Chinese labourers sought employment. The Malayan Emergency was declared by the British in Malaya (Peninsular Malaysia) on 18th June 1948, they viewed the Chinese as a threat to public security, and intended to carry out forced deportation. Chinese settlers in rural Seremban, namely Ulu Temiang and Sikamat, bore the brunt. Fortunately prominent Chinese community leaders carried out negotiations with the British, and agreed on establishing a re-settlement area in Seremban for the Chinese to rebuild their homes.

In 1951, the re-settlement area was affected by floods, and had to move to higher grounds nearby, where Kampung Baru Rasah currently stands. The layout of the new village was meticulously planned by the British, comprising residences, police station, schools etc. Residential plots sized 40ft x 100ft were marked by four cement poles, labelled with numbers, and allocated through a draw. Then, residents may construct their own houses.

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Teochew Mooncakes in Setapak

Traditional Teochew mooncakes incorporate lard into both the skin and the fillings, the pronunciation of lard in Teochew language is “la”, hence the name “La Piah”. Its crust is thin and flaky, its fillings thick and soft; it is round and shaped like a drum, and baked to a golden hue. Another Mid-Autumn Festival delicacy is “La Ko”, a steamed glutinous rice pudding with lard, sugar, and the addition of black sesame. There is also deep-fried yam paste mooncake, consisting of crispy layered crust, filled with soft and smooth yam paste encasing a salted egg yolk.

In Kuala Lumpur, Cantonese style mooncakes are trending, Teochew mooncakes are hardly seen, except in Setapak. Established over 113 years, Setapak Teochew Restaurant not only sells hot food, but also make traditional pastries. Till this day, they do their best to maintain the authentic taste their ancestors brought over from Shantou, China. Lard is still being used in the making of La Piah, La Ko, and yam paste mooncakes. La Piah fillings include red bean paste, mung bean paste, preserved vegetable paste, mixed fruit paste, mixed preserved vegetable with mung bean paste, and mixed fruit with mung bean paste; La Ko fillings include mung bean paste and yam paste.

85-year-old Ng Soo Teng is the third generation owner of Setapak Teochew Restaurant, now that he handed over the reins to the fourth generation, namely his 51-year-old son Ng Kheng Siang, but he still helps out every day regardless of the weather. The father and son share a similar career path, started working in the restaurant after graduating from high school, and underwent rigorous training by the previous generation to learn noodles-making, pastry-making, as well as culinary skills. Their business philosophy focuses on quality over quantity, insisting on using premium quality ingredients, enforcing strict food preparation process, maintaining the high quality of foods, actively listening to customer feedback, so that customers keep returning.

Every year, from the end of the sixth month of the lunar calendar till Mid-Autumn Festival, mooncakes are in great demand, therefore it is the busiest period in the shop. Manpower mainly consists of family members, even though there are a few employees, the key processes are still being handled by Ng Kheng Siang personally. La Piah, La Ko, and yam paste mooncake production starts in the wee hours, happening in the kitchens on both the ground floor and the first floor. After working through the night, they move on to prepare ingredients for the restaurant, then opening and start hot cooking. Signature dishes include homemade Hokkien noodles, stir-fried white rice cakes, spicy white vermicelli, traditional Teochew fare such as steamed pomfret fish and pomfret fish porridge, as well as snacks including homemade fish ball, fish cake, and meat roll.

Over the past century, changes occur along with the times. The types of fuels used in cooking gradually changed from charcoal stove, wood-fired stove, to modern gas stove and electric oven. Each change presented a challenge to maintain the authentic taste. Uncle Ng is optimistic about the changes, as it reduces manual labor and food safety issues.  Even though some procedures are being handled by machinery, human supervision is still required in heat control, as well as adjusting the ratio of water according to the water absorption capacity of different batches of ingredients.

Setapak Teochew Restaurant has taken root in Kuala Lumpur for over a century, running both a restaurant and a pastry bakery within the same premises, continuing to serve authentic flavors over several generations, as well as maintaining a cultural legacy.

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【Establishment History】

The founder of Setapak hailed from Shantou, China. In the early 20th century, he came to Ampang and worked as both a tin miner and a pig farmer. In 1912, he took over an eatery in Setapak, and opened Song Kee Eatery in partnership with his brother-in-law, selling Teochew porridge, stir-fried noodles, and pastries. They hired fellow Teochew people as helpers, and provided them with food and shelter, helping each other out while making a living in Malaya. 

As times change, the families flourished and branched out, the brother-in-law withdrew his share. After the third generation, Ng Soo Teng, took over, the eatery shifted to the current premises in 1993, and rebranded as Setapak Teochew Restaurant. Till this day, the founder’s portrait and the original Song Kee signage are hung in the shop, carrying the family’s collective memories and core belief. 

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【Locality Info】

Setapak is located in the northeast part of Kuala Lumpur, about 7km from the city center. In the early days, it is considered an outskirt area on the way to Pahang. According to historical records, Setapak is already inhabited since 1862, strewn with tin mines and rubber plantations. In Chinese, the place name is a Hokkien homophonic with a nearby stream named Sungai Belongkong.

In Malay, ‘tapak’ means ‘step’ and ‘setapak’ means ‘one step’, probably referring to the close proximity of the suburb to Kuala Lumpur. Another explanation of the origin of its name traces to its historical roots. The earliest inhabitants of Setapak were the aborigines and the Minangkabaus. On 12th April 1884, the Frank Swettenham, the Resident of Selangor pleaded for the re-appointment of Batu Tapak as the headman of the aborigines living in that area, hence the name Setapak in honour of the headman.

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【Teochew Mooncakes Info】

『La Piah / Traditional Teochew Flaky Mooncake』

A type of Teochew mooncake that is baked, with a flaky and crispy crust, thick and soft fillings; round and shaped like a drum, baked to a golden hue.
The pastry crust is made up of water dough and shortened dough, where the shortened dough is wrapped in the water dough and rolled thinly. 
The fillings are of the sweet type, such as red bean paste, mung bean paste, preserved vegetable paste, mixed fruit paste, mixed preserved vegetable with mung bean paste, and mixed fruit with mung bean paste. 
The preserved vegetable paste is made using sweet preserved vegetables, stir-fried for two hours to get rid of moisture.
The mixed fruit paste is made using lard, candied winter melon, dried tangerine, orange peel, sunflower seeds, white sesame, and sugar.

『La Ko / Glutinous Rice Pudding』

A type of Teochew mooncake that is steamed, with a bouncy skin and soft, smooth fillings. There are black and white variations, where the skin of the black variation contains black sesame.
Made using steamed glutinous rice flour mixed with lard and sugar.
Filled with mung bean paste or yam paste, but no longer the traditional mixed fruit paste due to modern dietary changes.
Traditional mixed fruit paste: Fatty pork is marinated with refined sugar over an extended period, until the pork appears translucent and yields a bouncy texture. Usually paired with two pieces of dried tangerine and two pieces of candied winter melon.

『Yam Paste Mooncake』

A type of Teochew mooncake that is deep-fried, consisting of crispy layered crust, filled with soft and smooth yam paste encasing a salted egg yolk.
The pastry crust is made up of water dough and shortened dough, where the shortened dough is wrapped in the water dough, rolled and folded repeatedly, curled into a stick, and cut to yield spiralled layers. 
Yam paste is a traditional Teochew dessert, a must-have at Teochew wedding banquets, symbolising “sweet from the beginning till the end”. Steamed yam is crushed into paste form, mixed with sugar, lard, candied winter melon, gingko nuts et cetera.

『Five Spices』

A savory variation of Teochew mooncake, with a crispy crust, and its filling is sweet with a pleasant savory taste. Made up of flour, sesame, sugar, salt, spices, lard, and onion.

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Scissors Sharpening in Petaling Street

“Did you know that scissors have got a heart?” Uncle Chow Hon Meng points at the pivot screw connecting the two blades. This heart, which does not beat, plays a key role in cutting performance, as it controls the blade tension, neither too tight or too loose, in order to function properly. Sharp blades create a smooth, clean cut, whereas dull blades are inefficient, resulting in jagged cuts, or even pull and tear the material. Therefore, scissors require sharpening from time to time. 

Uncle Chow has been sharpening scissors for over half a century. At 75 years old, he is rather sprightly, and his vision is still sharp like a hawk. First of all, he inspects the wornness of the scissors. Using tools, he loosens and removes the pivot screw, and rids the blades of dirt and rust. The sharpening process starts with hollow grinding with a grinding wheel machine, later on transitioning to coarse and then fine sharpening stones. After that, he wipes the blades clean, lubricate, and reassembles the scissors, tightening the screw until achieving perfect tension. 

Apart from scissors, Uncle Chow also sharpens various items, with customers from all over Malaysia, mainly those working in industries that rely on scissors and knives, such as tailors, hairdressers, and chefs. They would invest in high quality tools, to which they grew accustomed over time, even though their tools became dull, they would not dream of discarding or replacing. Some of them visit in person, or courier their tools over to Uncle Chow, just to bring their tools back to life. The toughest job of all is the razor, as it only has one cutting edge, a uniform apex must be achieved.

Uncle Chow is born in Penang, unto a family that does professional sharpening services. His father migrated from China, established a shop named “Heng Lee” in Georgetown, and taught sharpening skills to his children. When Uncle Chow first started out, he perfected his skills through continual practice, and even sharpened scissors and knives for neighbours free of charge. As he came from a big family, he decided to move to Kuala Lumpur to seek better opportunities.

In the 1980s, Bangunan Pak Peng in Petaling Street just opened, a 13-storey complex housing shops and offices, towering above the double-storey shophouses. It was very popular back then, the ground floor retail shops were all rented out to tailors, goldsmiths, tour agencies etc. Uncle Chow only managed to secure a shop on the first floor. He chose to continue his father’s legacy by using the same trade name “Heng Lee”. 

Salon products are displayed in the shop windows, the rear end is partitioned into a tiny workshop, brightly lit and well equipped with a wide array of tools and sharpening stones. In Heng Lee Trading Co.’s early days, Uncle Chow hired salespeople to sell salon products, his sales team even had three to four vans covering Kuala Lumpur and Selangor. His only focus is on sharpening services. Later on, his staff members gradually left in pursuit of their personal goals. Even though Uncle Chow is alone in the shop, he does not feel lonely as there are scissors talking to him. 

For over four decades, Uncle Chow is punctual at work, and delivers satisfactory results. He prefers appointment-based jobs, not urgent orders, as he requires sufficient time and energy in order to achieve optimal sharpening. Uncle Chow has been through professional training, his charges may be higher, but the quality of his job is guaranteed, hence building a strong and loyal customer base. 

As the saying goes, good tools are prerequisite to the success. Even as technology advances, scissors and knives are indispensable. However, nowadays in Petaling Street, very few skillful sharpening craftsmen like Uncle Chow could be found.

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Producer : Daniel Lim
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