Category: Traditional Trades

Rice wine making is a novelty of the CháoShàn population. Blessed with bountiful mountain streams and paddy fields, CháoShàn was famous for sweet rice wine since the Northern Song dynasty. At the beginning of the 20th century, Tay Chek Soo founded ‘Tay Miang Huat’ wine distribution company and ‘Miang Miang’ distillery in ShànTóu city of China. Together with his four younger brothers, they became established in the industry. Three years later, their operations expanded to Singapore and across Malaysia. In Melaka, a store at Jalan Pantai and a distillery at Bukit Cina were set up under ‘Tay Miang Guan’. In Kuala Lumpur, a shop at Kuchai Lama and a distillery at Petaling Jaya were set up under ‘Tong Ah’. Though a distillery was set up in Penang, it was later destroyed during the Japanese Occupation.

Among the handful of liquor manufacturing licenses approved by the Malaysian government, the Tay family acquired two, one of them for Tong Ah Distillery. Inaugurated in 1954, it was the first industrial warehouse in Section 51, Petaling Jaya. Over half a century, Tong Ah keeps up the traditional way of producing samsu and liqueur, the equipment and tools in the distillery being in use since its commencement of business. The white European-style building stood the test of time since colonial rule, and bore witness to three generations of inheritance. The marketing manager, Jason Tay, is the grandson of the founder. Jason’s father was also committed to the distillery for the better part of his life as a microbiologist.

Since the tender age of three, Jason tagged along as his father went to work, enjoying the attention of many uncles and aunties who helped him to build castles out of empty cartons. He even had a photo of himself posing on a forklift. Eventually as he grew up, he started sharing menial tasks in the distillery, such as brushing logos onto cartons and moving cartons, until he went abroad in the 80’s. While studying engineering in the United Kingdom, Jason remain firmly attached to his family, therefore he also enrolled in courses at a prestigious brewery institute. Later on, instead of settling down in the UK, Jason chose to return to Malaysia to be with his family.

Jason recollected childhood memories when the distillery business was thriving, up to 50 staff members hailing from varying racial backgrounds work together in harmony. About 20 of them were involved in fermentation and distillation procedures, then a blend master blends the alcohol. There were also Malay staff who mainly clean and dry glass bottles. Another dozen staff were in charge of bottling, putting on product stickers, and packing into cartons. Dwindling demand for rice wine, as well as reluctance to work in 3D industries, led to reduced workforce in the distillery now.

A couple of senior employees remain in Tong Ah, including Eddie, who has been a distiller for 30-odd years, and Manjit, who is a second-generation staff. Manjit operates the industrial steam boiler, which generates hot water and steam for distillation. Manjit’s father was the first-generation boiler operator, familiar with its structure, parts, standard operating procedures, and daily maintenance. The boiler has many potential hazards which may result in explosion, therefore the operator must be very attentive as to prevent unfortunate incidents. Hence, Manjit was apprenticed to his father and later on succeeded his position in the distillery.

A distiller also plays a key role in the distillery, overseeing the fermentation and distillation processes. Also a third-generation descendant of the Tay family, Eddie and Jason are cousins. Eddie joined the distillery to fulfill his father’s wish, starting off with the basics and mastered the work routine. First of all, the rice is steamed in a huge pot, let cool, and mixed with yeast for pre-fermentation. He adds sugar and water to enhance the conversion of starch into alcohol, the mixture is then transferred to an underground tank for 1-2 weeks of anaerobic fermentation. After that, the alcohol is pumped to the distillation column through roof pipes, where steam is injected from the boiler for vaporization.

At present, Tong Ah uses a post-World War II French fractionating column. Liquid alcohol flows through the column, impeded by a series of plates which continuously allow alcohol to evaporate and rise, and water to condense. Hence, each segment towards the top of the column yields a higher alcohol content. Eddie needs to control the operating temperature below 100°C, so that water does not evaporate and dilute the alcohol. He observes the distilled alcohol through a viewing glass, employing a hydrometer to test the density, which ideally achieve 70%.

The distilled alcohol flows into a tank in the bonded warehouse, and transferred into standard 270L drums for batch quantity calculation and storage. To ease customs inspection and audit, Eddie marks the product code, batch and manufacture date on a wooden post. The distilled alcohol then undergoes mixing by the blendmaster, and infused for a few days in blending tanks before bottling. Prior to distribution and sale, excise duty must be paid and excise stamps affixed to the bottles. A number of Hakka restaurants in Kuala Lumpur use ‘Tong Ah Sam Ching’, ‘Wu Chia Pi’ and ‘Mei Kwai Lau’ in their cooking, whereas ‘Good Luck Hiong Ng’ and ‘White Stag’ are popular with bak kut teh restaurants. Meanwhile ‘Wu Chia Pi’ is also used as ritual offerings, ‘White Stag’ for confinement food, and the elderly consume medicinal liquors.

In the event of Jason’s father death two years ago, Jason resolved to invigorate the distillery’s former glory, so that this century-old craftsmanship gains better exposure. Complying with current trends, Tong Ah produces glutinous rice wine with a variety of innovative flavours, as well as adopting social media marketing. On the other hand, the distillery is open for tours, Jason is happy to share his knowledge.

Online Shop：https://farmersbar.com.my/collections/vendors?q=Malacca%20Rice%20Wine

Text: Daniel Lim & Pua Hui Wen

有你 UNI Production
Producer : Mok Yii Chek
Coordinator : Daniel Lim
Cinematographer : Amelia Lim / Evon Pang
Video Editor : Amelia Lim
Production Assistant : Michael Lerk
Music : Valentine

COPYRIGHTS 2020 ECHINOIDEA SDN BHD

The sole remaining traditional Cantonese restaurant in Kuala Lumpur situated on the bustling Jalan Pudu for over 70 years, Sek Yuen, means a suitable gathering place. Both the exterior and interior of the restaurant retain its olden charm, the very same fans, tables, and chairs being in use since commence of business, where the marble tabletops became faded due to frequent scrubbing. In the kitchen stood two woodfire stoves and a wood-fired steamer which is seldom seen, the key in producing traditional flavours. Dishes cooked using woodfire stoves have a special taste, without necessity to be complemented by elaborate plating. Apart from making the mouth water, the rich authentic aromas that fill the restaurant transport people back to the past, glimpsing the way of life since 50 years ago. 

Pudu is situated in the outskirts of Kuala Lumpur City Centre, being one of the early Chinese communal settlements, it was called “half jungle” during the end of the 19th century before being fully developed. The British colonial government built a railway station beside the Pudu fire brigade station, transforming the area into a transport hub connecting Jalan Petaling and Jalan Cheras, causing both population and economic boom within Jalan Pudu. The Pudu Wet Market was the main wholesale market, every day crowds flock in since dawn. Back then when entertainment was scarce, there were three cinemas in Pudu, crowds did not disperse until late night. 

Founders of Sek Yuen Restaurant——the three Phang siblings discovered an excellent business opportunity, starting by selling wanton noodles in a roadside food cart, they slowly saved up to purchase a shop lot. In 1948, a simple hut was built at the current site. The whole family worked together, selling dim sum from 5.30A.M. onwards, then noodles and hot food from 11.30A.M. till late night. At the same time, they hosted banquets and feasts, flourishing with guests each night, thus gaining fame and recognition as one of the four major restaurants in Kuala Lumpur. With increasing numbers of banquets, Sek Yuen once imported containers of alcohol, an impressive feat in former times. Even British colonial government officers frequented Sek Yuen, attracting other renowned guests as well. 

In the mid-1950s, having developed rapidly together with Kuala Lumpur city, Sek Yuen was granted approval for building premises. The occupied spot stood out from the row of shops as an individual building, with pyramidal steps at the entrance, “Sek Yuen Restaurant” painted in red against white walls. Another interesting fact is due to the restaurant being located on an odd-numbered row between lots 313 and 315, its lot number is ingeniously assigned as 313/1. As the restaurant prospered, in 1971 Sek Yuen acquired a double-storey air-conditioned building at the neighbouring lot 315, improving its standards so that customers could enjoy delicious dishes in a comfortable environment. During the new site opening, they introduced their in-house research-and-developed Pipa Duck as a signature dish, a must-have to date. 

Since the founding of Sek Yuen, members of the Phang family have devoted themselves to operating the restaurant, upholding the family business established by their patriarchs. Helping out at the restaurant is a collective memory of the younger generations. Some of them work in the restaurant after completing their studies, Pang Yong Sui and Phang Siew Lake from the second generation lead the kitchen and barbecue stations respectively, dedicating their youth to Sek Yuen. Third-generation person-in-charge Phang Kwai Choong respects the elders’ commitment, as a token of gratitude, he returns to help in managing and handling the family business after some years of venturing out. Sek Yuen is now reined by the fourth generation, apart from about a dozen of family members working full-time in the restaurant, the remaining 60-70 family members lend a helping hand every now and then. During Chinese New Year, even the fifth generation comes to help, the entire family busy in the bustling restaurant. 

Modern dietary trends demand for fast service, sophisticated traditional dishes consumption declines, yet loyal gastronomes are still willing to indulge in authentic Cantonese fare at Sek Yuen. The sustenance of Sek Yuen lies in not only cooperative behaviour among family members, but also the involvement of younger generations who bring upon business model innovation to boost revenue. For instance, due to Covid-19, they launched delivery packages through online platforms, delivering tantalizing food to customers in person. Working hand-in-hand, the Phang family strives to maintain Sek Yuen Restaurant.

Text: Daniel Lim & Pua Hui Wen

有你 UNI Production
Producer : Mok Yii Chek
Coordinator : Daniel Lim
Cinematographer : Amelia Lim / Evon Pang
Drone : Daniel Lim
Video Editor : Amelia Lim
Production Assistant : Michael Lerk
Music : Wonderland

COPYRIGHTS 2020 ECHINOIDEA SDN BHD

Walking downstream of the Melaka River, passing by Jambatan Kampung Jawa with 130 years of history linking Jalan Kampung Pantai and Kampung Jawa, a wooden bridge rebuilt with metal by Chinese businessmen Tan Oon Guan and his two brothers in the late 19th century, who also restructured Kampung Jawa into a “New Street” with well-planned brick houses and developed lanes. Ever since, business activities on both shores got along closely, during daytime the “New Street” is a bustling trade zone, whereas turning into a pleasure-seeking and extravagant entertainment spot upon night-time, an area combining both work and amusement.

A century since, the flourishing “New Street” is long gone, its lanes (Jalan Jawa and Kampung Jawa) receded into serenity, leaving behind double-storey shophouses built in a fusion of Asian and Western styles which was popular back then, housing several traditional shops with over 100 years in existence, taking a sneak peek at former local cultural scenes. Among them, Sin Hiap Hin, a bar established in the 1920’s, maintaining its original British-influenced appearance, the solid wooden bar countertop with a rounded arc is still in use to date.

Pushing apart the red iron shutters, a variety of liquor bottles are arranged on layers of wall racks, the wooden bar countertop is full of marks where liquor glasses were set down over the hundred years. The antique furnishing and interior is never renovated, in the bar sits Aunty Lee Lian Suan, also known as Doris, wife of the 4th generation successor of Sin Hiap Hin. She pours out the customer’s choice of liquor with a smiling face, be it traditional Chinese herbal liquor such as Notoginseng liquor, Acanthopanax bark liquor, Perfect Tonic; beers popular with Caucasians, novelty rice wines, or rose liqueur. The most special type of liquor served being rice wine manufactured in Malacca by Tay Miang Guan Priquor Distillery established in 1908, with a range of innovative flavours such as pandan, lychee, coffee etc.

Sin Hiap Hin holds a liquor retail license granted by the British colonial government, legally selling liquor by the British colonial measurement unit peg, where half peg is equivalent to 30ml and one peg 60ml. Pure liquor is being sold, not mixed with other alcohol, water or soda, only a few ice cubes may be added. In the olden days, this type of bars were popular with fishermen and labourers making a living near Malacca River due to low prices. These customers often got drunk, wreaking havoc and owing credit which they never repaid. Moreover, the upper storey of the shophouse was an opium den where people used to gather to smoke. Sin Hiap Hin survived tenaciously throughout the years despite the turbulent environment, having experienced the British colonisation, the Japanese Occupation, the Federation of Malaya, to finally independence and the forming of Malaysia, still operating in its original site.

Since Aunty Doris married into the family in 1973, besides doing household chores, she also helps her husband and father-in-law to manage the bar. A few years after her father-in-law passed away, her husband’s legs became incapacitated, therefore she has to shoulder all responsibilities on her own. Turning 69 years old, Aunty Doris is probably the oldest bartender. Although selling an array of liquors, she barely drinks, merely looking upon as others enjoy. With a liquor bottle in one hand and steel measurement cup in the other, Aunty Doris pours either amber-coloured or clear liquor into glasses while chatting brightly with customers, making them feel at ease.

Over the forty-odd years, Aunty Doris handles her husband’s family business while taking care of her ill spouse, enduring various hardships to raise four children, as well as purchasing the shophouse they once rented. Eventually elderly regular customers passed away, changes in lifestyle and spending habits caused business to drop. Fortunately in recent years, the bar gained popularity and internet exposure, introducing slight improvements. Aunty Doris witnessed the flourish and decline of “New Street”, former neighbouring hardware shops, gold shops, wooden clog shops, vegetable shops, and barber shops are mostly closed for good. As her children grew up and moved out, the business that she once relied on now helps her to kill time.

In the century-old bar, each cup of liquor sold contains precious memories, accumulated into the ups and downs of a city. Be it tourists with a fleeting visit or regular customers with frequent visits, Aunty Doris does not hesitate in sharing life stories in the historical city.

Text: Daniel Lim & Pua Hui Wen

有你 UNI Production
Producer : Mok Yii Chek
Coordinator : Daniel Lim
Cinematographer : Amelia Lim / Evon Pang
Video Editor : Michael Lerk
Production Assistant : Michael Lerk
Music : Oakwoord Station – Kind of a Miracle from YouTube

COPYRIGHTS 2020 ECHINOIDEA SDN BHD