UNINESS

Hainanese Boiled Duck

In a corner of the light and bright kitchen, red-hot charcoal burning in the cement stove turns into gray ash. A free-range duck, cleaned thoroughly, with its feathers all plucked and entails removed, is trussed and ready to be cooked. As the water in the cast iron wok boils, an hour-long hot bath awaits the duck, after which the Hainanese boiled duck is born.

Pang Yok Sin, one of the school directors of Port Dickson Chung Hua High School, is sweating profusely while cooking, busy controlling the temperature of the charcoal stove and the doneness of the food, with assistance from his wife. After soaking the duck in boiling water, rotating it at intervals while pouring boiling water over its flesh to ensure even heating and doneness, the cooked duck is removed from heat to cool before being cut up and served. The remaining soup stock is the essence of the duck, and can be used to cook fragrance duck rice, blanch vegetables, make essential condiments, or even cook zucchini soup. Uncle Pang and wife conjure up a tableful of authentic Hainanese dishes while demonstrating the virtue of thrift.

The specialty of Hainanese dishes focus on fresh ingredients and their original tastes. The four classic dishes being: WénChāng chicken, JiāJī duck, DōngShān mutton, and HéLè crab; all were named after their cities of origin. Among them, the traditional way of preparing WénChāng chicken and JiāJī duck is by boiling, to preserve the tender meat texture of poultry. During the global mass migration in the 20th century, many Hainanese forefathers settled down in Malaysia, simple Hainanese dishes such as boiled chicken and chicken rice became popular. However, authentic Hainanese boiled duck and duck rice balls are rarely found in local restaurants. Uncle Pang is only able to savour these upon visiting his eldest brother or paying respects to his ancestors in QióngHǎi city.

Boiled duck is easy to cook, the challenge lies in seeking a suitable duck. JiāJī duck, commonly known as “foreign” or mule duck, is a hybrid of muscovy and common duck, and the breed was said to be brought in from Malaysia to JiāJī town in QióngHǎi city some 300 years ago. The features of mule ducks are a stout body and shanks, with white and black feathers which are extra long at the wings and tail. Mule ducks are allowed free range for two months, and then force-fed for a month. Therefore the duck has thin skin and soft bones, its meat high in protein but low in fat, best boiled to showcase the tender texture. The Malaysian government discourages home poultry breeding due to hygiene reasons, yet the duck available in supermarkets are unpalatable, so mule ducks are hard to come by.

With great difficulty to secure a suitable duck, Uncle Pang endeavoured to retain the natural taste of the duck. Firstly, clean the duck of feathers and entrails, rub it over with salt and flour, then blanch it. Prior to boiling, the duck is stuffed with equal portions of ginger, garlic, and shallots mixed with salt. It is then trussed to ease rotating. Controlling the charcoal stove temperature at a simmer requires patience and skills, so that the duck is cooked evenly. The remaining ginger, garlic, and shallots are then stir-fried, drizzled with the rich duck stock, enhancing flavours by adding lime, vinegar, or chilli. Such is the preparation of condiments to complement the dish.

Even though it has been decades since Uncle Pang last cooked this traditional dish, the steps are deeply ingrained in his mind, particularly the charcoal stove brought back fond childhood memories of cooking together with his parents and siblings. The open kitchen doubles as a dining hall where the entire family gather happily. Zucchini is planted in the backyard, easily available to be plucked and cooked into soup whenever the family is having boiled duck, the succulent zucchini is packed with yummy duck aroma.

The simple yet delicious boiled duck and various derivative dishes reflect the strong emotional bonds in Hainanese dishes. The elder generations taste familial attachment, while the younger generations chew upon cultural heritage. Uncle Pang who is of advanced age, not only took pleasure in cooking, but also proactively promotes traditional native cuisine.

Text: Daniel Lim & Pua Hui Wen

有你 UNI Production
Producer : Mok Yii Chek
Coordinator : Daniel Lim
Cinematographer : Amelia Lim / Evon Pang
Video Editor : Amelia Lim
Production Assistant : Michael Lerk
Music : The Romantic

COPYRIGHTS 2020 ECHINOIDEA SDN BHD

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Sewing Machine Repair Smith

At the left of the sewing head on the wooden tabletop, the needle shaft moves up and down in accordance with the pulley wheel and foot pedal. The loop-taker cooperates with the needle to sew or bind fabric using slender thread, leaving a neat row of stitches.

Sewing is a practical life skill even before the invention of sewing machines, as per the poem “thread held by a loving mother, made clothes for her wandering son”. Due to the virtuous practice of frugality, almost all housewives sew or alter clothes for their family. When the sewing machine was first launched, it was a luxurious item only the wealthy could afford. Around the mid-20th century, sewing machines indicated a well-to-do family’s wedding gift or dowry, in combination with bicycle, watch, and radio.

Sewing machines eased the tedious task of sewing by improving efficiency. During Malaysia’s economic boost in the 70s-80s, sewing machines became a household item. However the emergence of fast fashion deemed homemade clothing unstylish, sewing machines became eradicated, being used by only a few families and hobbyists. In the event of malfunctioning, it is difficult to send the sewing machine for repair due to its bulk and weight, hence the demand for on-site repair and service.

A call away, Uncle J.S. Lim departs from Port Dickson in his red minivan to the customer’s site. Carrying a blue toolbox, along with over 40 years of experience in machinery repairs, he proficiently fixes faulty sewing machines. He generally services and adjusts the loop timing, the latter being most crucial. The loop-taker seizes thread from the ascending needle, performing a retrograde movement to ensure stitch formation. Difference by a hair’s breadth may cause the shuttle hook and needle to be out of sync, resulting in skipping stitches, therefore the timing should be precise. From old-fashioned hand crank sewing machines, foot pedalled sewing machines, to modern motorized sewing machines, all restored by Uncle Lim’s skillful hands.

In his teens, Uncle Lim was apprenticed to a shop selling bicycles and sewing machines, learning to repair sewing machines from the shopowner’s daughter who was a tailor. His quick wits enabled him to apply the fundamental principles he mastered to other devices such as chainsaws, lawnmowers, electric generators etc. At 32-33 years old, he set up his own shop, only going into semi-retirement two years ago due to lack of customers. During CMCO this May, Uncle Lim’s daughters suggested him to create a Facebook page offering on-site sewing machine maintenance and repair.

“Uncle Lim Repair Shop” was thus created on Facebook, receiving countless enquiries. Starting from small neighbourhoods within Negeri Sembilan, Uncle Lim carries out on-site repairs, catering to mostly ladies and elderly persons from any racial background. His honest conduct and diligence won praises, his customer base grew. Mrs Lim tags along wherever he goes, chatting with customers while taking videos or photos of the service process and the customers’ satisfaction. These files are then uploaded onto Facebook with touching remarks, attracting more likes and followers.

The Facebook page has created far more job opportunities for Uncle Lim, his services expanded across districts and even across states since RMCO in June. Provided the accumulation of a few malfunctioning sewing machines within the same vicinity is enough to offset his travel expenses, he will proceed to schedule appointments. Uncle Lim and wife both have a happy-go-lucky attitude, treating outstation jobs as domestic travels to destinations such as Bidor, Ipoh, and Kampar. Warm reception from customers relieves them of fatigue, local delicacies delightful to savour. The furthest they went was 400km away to Gerik, where they stayed a few days and repaired over 30 sewing machines.

Besides maintenance and repair services, Uncle Lim promotes the practical usage of sewing machines in daily living, sharing beginner tips and tutorials on his Facebook page. He hopes to encourage more people to use sewing machines, or to regain this skill. Moreover, sewing machines are durable, old-fashioned ones still in use throughout several rural areas. Uncle Lim once serviced a hand crank sewing machine more than 150 years old, a precious family inheritance over three generations.

Though sewing machine repair is a declining industry, the skill is still valuable. Repair smiths like Uncle Lim who are willing to provide on-site services extend the usability of sewing machines, issues faced by perplexed customers resolved, thus escaping the sad fate of being sold as scrap metal. Utilizing modern technology such as social media not only unlocked a new chapter in Uncle Lim’s career, but also the rebirth of sewing machines.

Text: Daniel Lim & Pua Hui Wen

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Martin Lister Memorial Arch

Situated alongside the main street of Kuala Pilah is a memorial arch since 1901, built in honour of the Honourable Martin Lister. Before the British colonial government intervened into political affairs, Negeri Sembilan was nine separate districts ruled by different tribal leaders, with never-ending internal conflicts. Martin Lister was invited and appointed by Sultan/Yamtuan Seri Menanti to improve and develop the local economy. Due to his success in rebuilding the Negeri Sembilan Confederation and restoring peace through his excellent negotiation and diplomatic skills, he was appointed the first British Resident of Negeri Sembilan from 1889 to 1897.

The memorial arch comprised of both Chinese and Western architecture styles, includingthree-bay, four-pillar LingNan elements; calabash and fireball symbolizing fortune, prosperity, and longevity; and Dragon head Carp fish symbolizing bright prospects. There are also Ancient Roman hemispherical arch and Ancient Grecian entablature. Its front side bore trilingual inscriptions, with an English heading, a political timeline in Jawi on the left, and achievements in Chinese on the right. Praises were inscribed on the reverse side.

The upper stream of Muar river cut across Kuala Pilah, where the Minangkabau landed in the 15th century as pioneers. In late 19th century, the British colonial government encouraged land cultivation and tin mining, thus attracting scores of Chinese forefathers, transforming Kuala Pilah from a backward inland village into a main town of newly-founded Negeri Sembilan.

The Chinese community at Kuala Pilah is made up of 1/3 Hakka, then Cantonese and Hokkien, as well as some Hainanese and TeoChew. Each brought upon their religious faiths, thus Sam Seng Keong Temple was founded in 1898 under the leadership of local entrepreneur Tung Yen. The main deities worshipped are Emperor Guan, Guan Ping, and Zhou Cang; subdeities being Master Tam Gong, Master Xian Shi, and also other native deities. Following Tung Yen’s liaison with the British colonial government, the temple was allocated permanent land reservation status in 1900. Subsequently the site directly opposite the temple was allocated as a Chinese Pleasure Garden, where a memorial arch was constructed to commemorate Martin Lister who died of illness on his return journey to England.

Nowadays Kuala Pilah is hardly flourishing, traffic just passed through the highway. A lack of industrial zones and unrevealed tourism potential caused slow economical development and mass urban migration. The heritage of Martin Lister Memorial Arch gradually became forgotten by the local population, notwithstanding its trusteeship under the Sam Seng Keong temple committee, hosting theatre and puppetry performances during festive celebrations. The Chinese Pleasure Garden used to be a space for co-curricular activity of the Sam Seng Keong private school. However, neglect in maintenance and repairs led to its decrepit appearance, whereby it was often mistook for an ancient tomb.

An advocate in culture and education, Mr GH Tee was born and bred in Kuala Pilah, but works in Kuala Lumpur. On an occasional hometown visit in 2013, he discovered the miserable condition of Martin Lister Memorial Arch and the Chinese Pleasure Garden, therefore he took an initiative to conserve this historical site. The community barely acknowledge or appreciate its historical value, and were only concerned about the financial prospects of this project. For six years, despite lack of response, he persisted in promoting the historical background of the memorial arch and its importance to the local Chinese guilds, businesses, and relevant government authorities.

Mr Tee’s continual efforts were not in vain, a Committee of Restoration and Beautification of Kuala Pilah Chinese Pleasure Garden was founded last year. Talents from various professional fields work together in restoration, research, fundraising, as well as applying for the memorial arch to be listed as a cultural heritage site. The initiatives and publicity over the year has increased public awareness, gaining beneficial support and generous donations. Currently the blueprint is completed by an architect who specialize in historic building restoration, tender notice and partial works will commence in the near future.

There are a multitude of historical sites reflecting ancient features and local specialties within Malaysia, a collective memory of the residing community, a proof of historical trace. Buildings bear testimony to culture heritage, nevertheless some historical sites were unable to sustain through development, hence falling to ruins or even dismantled. In order to pass on such historical and cultural inheritance to future generations, Mr Tee recommends nurturing and educating the public to inspire interest and passion in conserving historical sites. Times and things may change, the virtues of predecessors should not be forgotten.

Text: Daniel Lim & Pua Hui Wen
Malay Subtitles: Lim Ai Ling (Cikgu Pi Chung)

有你 UNI Production
Producer : Mok Yii Chek
Coordinator : Daniel Lim
Cinematographer : Amelia Lim / Evon Pang
Drone : Daniel Lim
Video Editor : Evon Pang
Production Assistant : Michael Lerk
Music : Sentimental Peaceful Cinematic Piano

COPYRIGHTS 2020 ECHINOIDEA SDN BHD

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