UNINESS

Walking downstream of the Melaka River, passing by Jambatan Kampung Jawa with 130 years of history linking Jalan Kampung Pantai and Kampung Jawa, a wooden bridge rebuilt with metal by Chinese businessmen Tan Oon Guan and his two brothers in the late 19th century, who also restructured Kampung Jawa into a “New Street” with well-planned brick houses and developed lanes. Ever since, business activities on both shores got along closely, during daytime the “New Street” is a bustling trade zone, whereas turning into a pleasure-seeking and extravagant entertainment spot upon night-time, an area combining both work and amusement.

A century since, the flourishing “New Street” is long gone, its lanes (Jalan Jawa and Kampung Jawa) receded into serenity, leaving behind double-storey shophouses built in a fusion of Asian and Western styles which was popular back then, housing several traditional shops with over 100 years in existence, taking a sneak peek at former local cultural scenes. Among them, Sin Hiap Hin, a bar established in the 1920’s, maintaining its original British-influenced appearance, the solid wooden bar countertop with a rounded arc is still in use to date.

Pushing apart the red iron shutters, a variety of liquor bottles are arranged on layers of wall racks, the wooden bar countertop is full of marks where liquor glasses were set down over the hundred years. The antique furnishing and interior is never renovated, in the bar sits Aunty Lee Lian Suan, also known as Doris, wife of the 4th generation successor of Sin Hiap Hin. She pours out the customer’s choice of liquor with a smiling face, be it traditional Chinese herbal liquor such as Notoginseng liquor, Acanthopanax bark liquor, Perfect Tonic; beers popular with Caucasians, novelty rice wines, or rose liqueur. The most special type of liquor served being rice wine manufactured in Malacca by Tay Miang Guan Priquor Distillery established in 1908, with a range of innovative flavours such as pandan, lychee, coffee etc.

Sin Hiap Hin holds a liquor retail license granted by the British colonial government, legally selling liquor by the British colonial measurement unit peg, where half peg is equivalent to 30ml and one peg 60ml. Pure liquor is being sold, not mixed with other alcohol, water or soda, only a few ice cubes may be added. In the olden days, this type of bars were popular with fishermen and labourers making a living near Malacca River due to low prices. These customers often got drunk, wreaking havoc and owing credit which they never repaid. Moreover, the upper storey of the shophouse was an opium den where people used to gather to smoke. Sin Hiap Hin survived tenaciously throughout the years despite the turbulent environment, having experienced the British colonisation, the Japanese Occupation, the Federation of Malaya, to finally independence and the forming of Malaysia, still operating in its original site.

Since Aunty Doris married into the family in 1973, besides doing household chores, she also helps her husband and father-in-law to manage the bar. A few years after her father-in-law passed away, her husband’s legs became incapacitated, therefore she has to shoulder all responsibilities on her own. Turning 69 years old, Aunty Doris is probably the oldest bartender. Although selling an array of liquors, she barely drinks, merely looking upon as others enjoy. With a liquor bottle in one hand and steel measurement cup in the other, Aunty Doris pours either amber-coloured or clear liquor into glasses while chatting brightly with customers, making them feel at ease.

Over the forty-odd years, Aunty Doris handles her husband’s family business while taking care of her ill spouse, enduring various hardships to raise four children, as well as purchasing the shophouse they once rented. Eventually elderly regular customers passed away, changes in lifestyle and spending habits caused business to drop. Fortunately in recent years, the bar gained popularity and internet exposure, introducing slight improvements. Aunty Doris witnessed the flourish and decline of “New Street”, former neighbouring hardware shops, gold shops, wooden clog shops, vegetable shops, and barber shops are mostly closed for good. As her children grew up and moved out, the business that she once relied on now helps her to kill time.

In the century-old bar, each cup of liquor sold contains precious memories, accumulated into the ups and downs of a city. Be it tourists with a fleeting visit or regular customers with frequent visits, Aunty Doris does not hesitate in sharing life stories in the historical city.

Text: Daniel Lim & Pua Hui Wen

有你 UNI Production
Producer : Mok Yii Chek
Coordinator : Daniel Lim
Cinematographer : Amelia Lim / Evon Pang
Video Editor : Michael Lerk
Production Assistant : Michael Lerk
Music : Oakwoord Station – Kind of a Miracle from YouTube

COPYRIGHTS 2020 ECHINOIDEA SDN BHD

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Charcoal is the first among seven daily necessities, the rest being rice, oil, salt, sauce, vinegar, and tea. Since ancient times, charcoal has been important as fuel in daily life. Cooking food using traditional charcoal-fueled stoves is tricky and laborious, requiring constant attention to the heat and doneness of the food. As the dishes are heated evenly, charcoal fumes lent a special aroma to the food. Besides, charcoal has absorbability properties, therefore water boiled with charcoal is velvety and odorless. Once a must-have in every single household, with the advent of gas and electrical appliances, charcoal has now fallen out of favour, charcoal stores are barely seen nowadays.

On Jalan Trus in Johor Bahru, among the row of shophouses opposite the ancient temple, the large signboard of Yong Heng Charcoal Shop could be seen clearly, the sole remaining charcoal shop in the region. The daughters of the late founder, octogenarian Madam Chong Shen Chen (transliteration) and sexagenarian Madam Chong Lian Chen (transliteration) persisted to work, currently helping their nephew, who is the third generation owner to run this seven-decade old family business.

When Chinese forefathers migrated to Malaysia, they sustained this ancient wisdom of utilising natural resources, for instance mangrove wood, to produce fuel thus solving the most crucial daily needs. In earlier days, street peddlers sold charcoal door-to-door on bicycles or tricycles, some merchants also distributed charcoal from local kilns so that customers may purchase in-store. Upon stepping into the corridor of Yong Heng Charcoal Shop, the mottled wooden plaque hanging on top of the entrance brings you back in time.

Towards the end of the 1940’s, when this plaque was newly hung, charcoal was the mainstream fuel used in cooking. Except for the table in front, the entire shop was filled with bundles of charcoal, the floor and walls stained with charcoal dust. Before plastic packaging became popular, charcoal is delivered in loose piles on lorries from the kiln, requiring scooping manually to transfer the stock into the shop. The charcoal is then sorted according to sizes and tied tightly into paper-wrapped bundles to prevent humidity absorption. Working ceaselessly, the family’s clothes and fingers are smothered in black dust.

Hanging on the wall at the rear of the shop are uniquely-shaped charcoal, a collection by the two Chong sisters, full of fond childhood memories where they work happily together as a family. Since a young age, they have been helping their father in packaging charcoal, therefore whenever they came across charcoal pieces with special shapes, they would keep these natural artwork. At present, charcoal stock comes with complete plastic packaging, without any need to sort, just unload and arrange. As gas stoves and electrical appliances gained popularity due to being more convenient, demand for charcoal declined steeply, only hawkers and customers who persist in using charcoal will make regular purchases. During festival celebrations, sales increase due to preparing customary cuisine. Their usual pastime is looking after the shop as well as chatting with customers and old neighbours, leading a simple and joyful life.

A daily necessity, a traditional industry, a specialty store. Improvement in living conditions meant elimination of certain elements, the kitchen evolved from a dusty environment into a clean and convenient place. There is still demand for charcoal despite its being outdated.

Text: Daniel Lim & Pua Hui Wen

有你 UNI Production
Producer : Mok Yii Chek
Coordinator : Daniel Lim
Cinematographer : Amelia Lim / Evon Pang
Video Editor : Amelia Lim
Production Assistant : Michael Lerk
Music : Invisible Beauty

COPYRIGHTS 2020 ECHINOIDEA SDN BHD

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