Peninsular Plantation Pineapple Estate at Simpang Renggam was pioneered in 1954, by philanthropist Tan Sri Lee Kong Chian under Lee Rubber Co (Pte) Ltd (formerly known as Nam Aik), cultivating up to 400,000 pineapple plants on over 6,000 acres of land. Pineapple planting was among the main source of income for the population in the area, during the 60’s economic boom, hundreds of plantation workers were being employed, not only local villagers but also labourers brought in from neighbouring regions. At the crack of dawn, as workers make their way to work via the narrow mud road, they inhale rich coffee scent wafting from Fang Hui Coffee Shop located within the plantation.
Being the largest scaled pineapple estate of the nation, the owner of Peninsular Plantation took efforts to make sure that workers from outstation could live at ease in this remote land, hence allocating part of the plantation land for building hostels, a school, temples, and shops, shaping a small yet complete neighbourhood. With their welfare being well taken care of, most workers are willing to settle down and secure work in the plantation while living in a helpful and harmonious community.
Among the two rows of old shops in Peninsular Plantation, Fang Hui Coffee Shop has been in operation since the pioneering of the pineapple estate, managed by two generations of the Wong family for over half a century, without being sold. The shop name “Fang Hui” literally means coffee aroma wafting throughout the plantation. 61-year-old Wong Swee Wan is the second-generation heir, who grew up and spent the better part of his life in the coffee shop operated by his father, from being a student to getting married and having children, he relied on inherited coffee-making skills and the shop in raising his four children.
The smooth and rich Hainanese coffee is made using pure white coffee beans specially roasted by Uncle Wong’s friend, processed without the addition of condiments such as butter or sugar. The homemade kaya sandwiched between crispy charcoal-toasted bread is personally cooked with care by Uncle Wong on his weekly day off, promising the best taste and quality. Regular customers could order takeaway coffees in metal tins instead of common plastic bags, which is an amusing sight. Apart from that, Uncle Wong also sells fresh fruits such as pineapples and guavas in his coffee shop.
Unlike most coffee shops in town, Fang Hui is situated within the plantation, not likely to be passed by unless going in or out of the pineapple estate. Initially the coffee shop catered for staff to have tea during their break time, familiar plantation supervisors show up daily regardless of the weather. Now that there are fewer Chinese workers and more foreign workers, other shops either close down or sell-off, however the coffee shop operation is not affected. To date, Fang Hui retains its simple and traditional style and features, for instance the original signboard with 60 years of history, as well as rarely seen classical heavy wooden plank shutters which Uncle Wong and his wife need to cooperate to move them aside one-by-one during opening, then place them back during closing.
Take a seat in the classical shop front, take a sip of the Hainanese coffee made by Uncle Wong, savour not only the rich aroma but also the unique sensation of life in the plantation.
Text: Daniel Lim & Pua Hui Wen
有你 UNI Production
Producer : Mok Yii Chek
Coordinator : Daniel Lim
Cinematographer : Amelia Lim / Evon Pang
Drone : Daniel Lim
Video Editor : Michael Lerk
Production Assistant : Michael Lerk
Music : Happy Memories from FeltMusic
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