UNINESS

Fish wrapped in aluminium foil packets are neatly arranged on the brick stove, getting licked by bright flames from the charcoal fire. The chef is unable to see through the packet, and therefore can only determine whether or not the fish is fully cooked from the duration and degree of heating. When deemed ready, the foil packets are transferred to stainless steel oval plates and served to customers. Upon ripping open the steaming hot packets, one is greeted by the mouthwatering aroma and the delicate, tender flesh of a whole fish. The freshwater Tilapia fish takes about six months to grow from fish seeds to about one kilogram in weight, yet was caught, gutted and scaled, then cooked and served in the blink of an eye.

The grilled fish restaurant founded by Kok Sack Swee is situated within the hilly countryside of Broga, surrounded by verdant greenery, where one can listen to chirping birds and insects, view glimmering ponds, and embrace the tranquility and serenity. Uncle Kok lives in a small cottage on the plantation grounds. Early in the morning, he busied himself tending various fruit trees and medicinal herbs, as well as feeding the fish in the ponds. Although the work is tedious, he finds enjoyment in it.

Ancestors of the Kok family migrated from HuiZhou in GuangDong, China to Broga in the 1910s. Kok Sack Swee was a Broga lad born and bred. In his youth, he started his career in the agricultural sector, including a stint in oil palm cultivation at Kuantan, which he afterwards returned to Broga and developed fruit plantations. In the mid-90s, he started a fish pond in his durian plantation, and opened it to recreational fishing. As a way to attract more customers, Uncle Kok and his wife decided to offer cooking services.

Inspired by the relaxed charm of picnics, the freshly-caught fish are gutted and scaled, coated in homemade paste, wrapped in an aluminium foil packet, and grilled on a charcoal fire. Due to foil packets absorb heat relatively quick and distribute it evenly, as well as effectively retaining the food’s moisture, lending the grilled fish a delicate and tender texture. Captivating the customers’ taste buds with fresh ingredients, and charging a fair price, Uncle Kok gradually gained popularity. He is the first in Broga to offer grilled fish in aluminium foil packets, attracting foodies from near and far. 

In 2000, Uncle Kok shifted to the current premises inside a rubber plantation, built additional fish ponds, and established a grilled fish restaurant. His wife, sister-in-law, son, daughter-in-law, and daughter readily help with operations. The entire family work together to serve up the freshest delicacies. Earlier on, while at the old premises, his son, Kok Chee Yee, used to only help out during weekends. Upon Uncle Kok founded the restaurant in his 60s, Kok Chee Yee decided to stay home to help, and took over the reins shortly after.

Now aged 81, Uncle Kok is no longer in charge of the grill, but he is still actively helping in the restaurant. From time to time, he worked in the fruit orchard behind the restaurant, tending various fruit trees and medicinal herbs. Whenever regular customers visit, he would converse with them in the Hakka dialect. Sometimes he would help to gut and scale fish, chop vegetables, and wash the dishes. In the evening, after business hours, is his time to relax and play with his grandchildren.

Kok Sack Swee leads an idyllic lifestyle in the countryside, Kok Chee Yee also shares his father’s sentiments, keeping a distance from the hustle and bustle of city life, relishing in the natural environment and his culinary pursuits. Living a simple life, surrounded by beloved family members, is the epitome of happiness.

有你 UNI Production
Producer : Daniel Lim
Cinematographer : Amelia Lim / Michael Lerk
Drone : Daniel Lim
Video Editor : Amelia Lim
Copywriter : Pua Hui Wen

COPYRIGHTS 2025 ECHINOIDEA SDN BHD

“Lift the pot lid!” Upon lifting the lid of the steamer, scorching hot gusts of steam escape. Smoke from the woodfire and the steam create a misty cloud-like effect, filled with the sweet aroma of glutinous rice and sugar. Fresh from the pot, glutinous rice cakes have a dark caramel surface while the inner layer is golden in colour, with a smooth and soft texture. Stir using a chopstick, curl up a morsel, take an eager bite despite its high temperature, a pleasant sweetness lingers on the palate.

Glutinous rice cakes are a must-have for Chinese New Year celebration, used for prayers or gifting among family and friends. In the past, almost every family will make glutinous rice cakes before Chinese New Year. In Hakkanese it is called Tài Lǒng Cí (big basket glutinous treat), because it is contained within a bamboo basket that is one foot in diameter. Line the bamboo basket with heat-treated banana leaves, mill the glutinous rice into semi-liquid form, add equal parts of sugar and mix evenly, then pour the mixture into the container and steam for at least 18 to 20 hours.After the steamed glutinous rice cakes cooled down, cut into long strips and put into a tiered bamboo basket alongside other festive gifts, to bring along when visiting family and friends.

49-year-old Lim Swee Lin, whose ancestry is traced back to HeXi Hakkanese village in southern China, is a fourth-generation immigrant, born and bred in Kepong, Kuala Lumpur. His mother, who learned to make traditional treats from both his maternal grandmother (from JiaYing, MeiXian) and his paternal grandmother (from HeXi), ran a wholesale business in Kepong from the 70s to the 90s. As he grew up, he would help out after school. Glutinous rice cake making starts from one month before Chinese New Year, in Lim’s teenage years, he would stay up throughout the night to help tend the fire, adding firewood or water when necessary. Under a subtle influence, he gained glutinous rice cake making skills.

Now a maker of micro landscapes, Lim frequently participate in artisan markets. In conjunction with the Chinese New Year themed You Ni Market 18.0, he decided to share the taste of Chinese New Year he experienced while growing up, replicating the hard and weary process of making traditional glutinous rice cakes to acquaint market-goers with authentic Tài Lǒng Cí. Lim insists on sourcing natural ingredients, using untreated wood (rubber and acacia) for firewood, opting to use bamboo tubes from edible species as containers, which he also line with banana leaves. Lim’s glutinous rice cake mixture is not made from commercially available glutinous rice flour and refined sugar, instead glutinous rice is soaked overnight and ground into semi-liquid form, and then add raw cane sugar which is rich in nutrients and minerals.

Piling firewood, starting a fire, and building a simple red brick stove are all muscle memory to Lim. Boil water in a large iron-cast pot, layer some wood in the pot and arrange the bamboo tubes filled with glutinous rice cake mixture on it, then close the lid. During the cooking process, it is crucial to maintain a burning fire, making sure that the fire does not die out as the weather changes. After steaming for eight to twelve consecutive hours, the glutinous rice and raw cane sugar mixture became fully incorporated and caramelization took place. The aromas of the bamboo tubes and banana leaves became infused into the glutinous rice cakes as well. Consuming while hot, sweetness is at its prime, yet more complex flavours may develop after cooling down.

As Lim takes up the challenge of making glutinous rice cakes on-site, to ensure that things go well, he sought advice from his mother, and engaged his son’s help while providing him with hands-on training. The making of traditional Tài Lǒng Cí passed over four generations, not only strengthening family bonds, but also a continuation of Chinese New Year celebration, wisdom and cultural heritage.

有你 UNI Production
Producer : Daniel Lim
Cinematographer : Amelia Lim / Michael Lerk
Drone : Daniel Lim
Video Editor : Michael Lerk
Copywriter : Pua Hui Wen

COPYRIGHTS 2025 ECHINOIDEA SDN BHD