Charcoal-baked Chinese New Year Cookies in Kampung Simee

Around 3AM, when the surroundings are enclosed in darkness, and most people are still sound asleep, the five-foot-way of a double-storey shophouse in Kampung Simee, Ipoh, is brightly lit. A few white-haired ladies are either seated in front of a rectangular charcoal stove or shuffling between two rows of round charcoal stoves (ten in total), busy making traditional Chinese New Year cookies. The aroma of cookies wafts alongside the red-hot smoldering charcoal, music plays from the radio in the corner, sometimes interrupted by lively chatter. They are busy as bees from before sunrise until sunset.

This double-storey shophouse has been around since Kampung Simee was founded, acting as a grocer and home to four generations of the Low family, where all members of the family would now gather. Ranked seventh out of ten sisters in the third generation, Low Siew Tiong sparked an interest in cookie-making from a tender age. Each year, as the festive season approached, she would help neighbours to make cookies after school. After becoming an adult, she suggested to her sisters that they all work together to make Chinese New Year cookies for sale. Unexpectedly, they kept it up for over forty years. Before getting married, they all lived under the same roof. After getting married, during the two months preceding Chinese New Year until New Year’s Eve, they would make a special effort to return to their old home, where they busied themselves with their annual cookie-making.

The charcoal stoves and cast-iron moulds resurfaced from the storeroom to make mouthwatering kuih kapit, egg rolls, and Indonesian style cookies. The inspiration for Indonesian style cookies was a local delicacy they tasted during a trip decades ago where they visited friends in Indonesia. Upon returning home, they come up with their own version: fry a thin round pancake, fill it with peanuts or meat floss, and fold it into a square. Egg rolls are the bestseller, coming in two varieties: hollow or filled with meat floss (inspired by a trip to Hatyai). Kuih kapit, Indonesian style cookies, and egg rolls may appear similar, but the makeup of each batter is different. The Low sisters stick with the same ingredients’ ratio, without making adjustments to suit consumers. They insist on using charcoal, as it instills a unique flavor which consumers love.

Kuih kapit is baked using the rectangular charcoal stove. The sisters work closely together, handling 20 moulds at the same time. From baking, folding, to packing, each step is carried out in an orderly manner. There are no fixed roles, they can swap with each other anytime. The round charcoal stoves are for Indonesian style cookies and egg rolls, which Low Siew Tiong can single-handedly take care of five at a time. The Low sisters, all of whom have genetically white hair, bustle around the shophouse and the five-foot-way. Apart from charcoal-baked cookies, they also make deep-fried honeycomb cookies, and the older sisters are in charge of oven-baked cookies, totalling up to over twenty types.

The making of cookies is not sophisticated, but the process is gruelling, especially as they get older, they endure sore limbs after work. The Low sisters could only accept orders according to their physical capacity, estimate the production time, and close orders one month before the Chinese New Year, focus on completing orders, then wrap up work to enjoy the holidays. In previous years, they used to work right up to New Year’s Eve, and the siblings pooled money to dine out together for the reunion dinner. What they look forward to the most is on the first day of the Chinese New Year, all members of the family gather at their old home and take family photos.

Year in, year out, the making of Chinese New Year cookies became a family ritual, where family members and neighbours help each other out, sit together, chat, and bond. Handmade traditional Chinese New Year cookies, whether gifted to relatives and friends, served to guests, or enjoyed by the family, carry a legacy of warmth and festive spirit.

有你 UNI Production
Producer : Daniel Lim
Cinematographer : Amelia Lim / Michael Lerk
Drone : Daniel Lim
Video Editor : Amelia Lim
Copywriter : Pua Hui Wen

COPYRIGHTS 2025 ECHINOIDEA SDN BHD

☕ Buy Us Coffee

Chai Huat Hin Dried Seafood and Sundry Store

Laid out on makeshift tables lining the five-foot walkway of Chai Huat Hin Trading at Jalan Tun H.S. Lee are cartons of dry goods such as garlic, onion, and ginger; tubs of dried marine products such as dried shrimp and anchovies; and a wide array of nuts, beans, and grains. Pre-packed dried fish maw with hues ranging from pale yellow to golden mustard suspend from the retractable awning rail, while bags of dried bean curd skin, shiitake mushrooms, black moss, and other ingredients hang above the entrance. Even though situated far away from the sea, Chai Huat Hin supply the city with marine products.

Practiced since centuries ago, drying has proved to be an effective way to preserve and extend the shelf life of various types of marine products, as well as make them more convenient for storage and transportation. In everyday Chinese cooking, intensely-flavoured and less expensive ingredients such as dried shrimp and anchovies are typically used to lend a rich umami taste to dishes. Exotic dried seafood such as fish maw, sea cucumber, and abalone, can be soaked to rehydrate before being incorporated into a wide range of exquisite dishes carrying auspicious meanings.

As Chinese New Year approaches, the last couple of dried seafood stores standing in Petaling Street are bustling as customers flock in to stock their pantry in preparation for reunion dinner. Chai Huat Hin is exceptionally busy, as customers return repeatedly over decades, even though some of them might have moved to other neighbourhoods or migrated overseas. Many younger family members accompany their elders to learn how to identify and choose the ingredients. Friendly and knowledgeable staff members are on hand to assist, offering suggestions and tips on adding texture, flavour, and nutrition to their dishes.

Chai Huat Hin offers an extensive assortment of products, with wild fungi and game from natural origins and premium dried seafood such as abalone, sea cucumber, fish maw, oyster, and scallops. Another staple at Chai Huat Hin is the wide range of dry cured meats, including cured pork belly, Chinese sausages, liver sausages, duck gizzards, and the increasingly rare golden-silver liver sausage, which consists of pork liver stuffed with fatty pork. The store also sells sauces, seasonings, canned foods, dried fruits, and other items, making it a well-established one-stop shop for food ingredients.

The founder, Mr Lim Boon Peng, was originally a delivery driver, constantly on the go. After he got married, his loving wife, Mdm Tan Siew Keng, could not bear to see his always being exhausted. She pawned her dowry as capital, and got help from her father who ran a dried seafood store to introduce her husband to potential partners. Thus, Chai Huat Hin was founded in 1972. When the partnership dissolved 17-18 years ago, he was reluctant to retire despite being 60 years old, therefore he established his own trading at the current premises, maintaining the brand name Chai Huat Hin.

Running a dried seafood store is very challenging, with the greatest difficulty being the wide variety of products, which requires careful selection, quality control, and inventory management. The key lies in good coordination to ensure a steady supply without overstocking. The second-generation owners, Lim Bee Bee and her husband Mark, took over the reins after Mr Lim’s passing in 2016. With the support of veteran staff, Uncle Leng, who is like a walking encyclopedia, they are able to manage the business effectively and efficiently.

Traditional shops in Petaling Street offer customers ingredients they can see, smell, and touch, which is different from modern supermarkets and hypermarkets, giving those who are particular about quality peace of mind. Sincere communication and friendly service also provide customers with an enjoyable shopping experience while ensuring they get the right ingredients.

有你 UNI Production
Producer : Daniel Lim
Cinematographer : Amelia Lim / Michael Lerk
Drone : Daniel Lim
Video Editor : Michael Lerk
Copywriter : Pua Hui Wen

COPYRIGHTS 2024 ECHINOIDEA SDN BHD

☕ Buy Us Coffee

Kien Fatt Medical Store

Kien Fatt Medical Store is the most long-standing traditional Chinese medicine (TCM) store in Petaling Street, established for well over 80 years, houses a Chinese herbal apothecary, a TCM clinic, and a pharmacy selling over-the-counter Western medicine all under one roof. Over the years, Kien Fatt Medical Store offers affordable TCM treatment and prescriptions for the public to help maintain their overall bodily health.

Between the late 19th and early 20th centuries, Petaling Street was a central hub for Chinese immigrants who came to Malaya to seek a living. It is where they eventually settled down and businesses sprung up to satisfy their daily needs. Back then, those who ran medical stores were typically well-educated and knowledgeable in traditional Chinese medicine. When Kien Fatt first opened its doors in 1942, a scholar was hired to manage the shop, who also doubled as an in-house TCM practitioner. Most of the Chinese labourers would come to seek help when they encountered health issues or needed someone to write letters home.

Traditional Chinese medicine (TCM) originated in ancient China and has evolved over thousands of years, using herbs, acupuncture, and other methods to treat a wide range of conditions. Chinese herbal medicines are mainly plant based, but some preparations include minerals or animal products. They can be packaged as powders, pastes, lotions or tablets, depending on the herb and its intended use. The work in a Chinese herbal apothecary requires tremendous effort, the most challenging part involves memorizing hundreds of classic herbal medicine formulas, understanding the pharmacological and toxicological properties of each herb as well as multi-herb correlation to prevent undesirable side effects. For a start, one needs to learn to identify all kinds of herbs, and how to classify and store them. One then gets familiar with the Baizi cabinet (literally translates as 100 cabinets), eventually knowing the contents of each drawer by heart. Out of a large number of apprentices, only a handful persevered to become herbalists.

Generations of the Ng family have been traditional herbal medicine sellers, the first generation to immigrate to Malaya set up store in Rasa. The second generation, Ng Kien Poon and Ng Fatt Poon, sought work at Kuala Lumpur, amassed enough capital, and co-founded Kien Fatt Medical Store in Petaling Street, selling both Chinese herbs and Western medicines. In the 1980s, due to government regulations, they had to stop selling Western medicine. Instead they focused on herbal products wholesale and supply, becoming the exclusive distributor of Axe brand medicated oil. During the peak phase, their business expanded across Malaysia, and they have their own fleet of delivery trucks.

In the 1990s, the third generation heir, Ng Chee Yat, returned to Malaysia after having graduated from the UK, and took over the business. business. With his accredited qualifications as a pharmaceutical chemist, he set up a pharmacy at a corner of the shop. He then attained professional qualification as a TCM practitioner, and invited fellow TCM practitioners to set up a clinic together at the rear end of Kien Fatt’s premises. Realising the value and potential of TCM, they founded the KL Academy of Chinese Medical Practice, educationally collaborated with the Heilongjiang University of Chinese Medicine in China, to provide training and further education opportunities, provide alternative career paths for ordinary people, as well as raise public awareness and acceptance of TCM.

It is increasingly difficult for traditional trades to survive in Petaling Street, and Chinese medicine stores are no exception. Kien Fatt Medical Store still holds true to its core belief, offering effective healthcare solutions to the public without costing a bomb, which is truly remarkable.

有你 UNI Production
Producer : Daniel Lim
Cinematographer : Amelia Lim / Michael Lerk
Drone : Daniel Lim
Video Editor : Michael Lerk
Copywriter : Pua Hui Wen

COPYRIGHTS 2024 ECHINOIDEA SDN BHD

☕ Buy Us Coffee