UNINESS

Pastries are not just a type of food; they are also an essential part of life rituals. Whether for celebrations or important festivals, pastries are often given as gifts. In Chinese culinary culture, pastries are said to have originated during the Han Dynasty and was a general term for wheat-based products. Depending on the region and heritage, the methods of making pastries, their flavors, and shapes vary. After early generations of Chinese migrants settled in Malaysia, the tradition of Chinese pastries, or “Han bing”, became diluted through time and cultural integration. However, Seong Ying Chai, a longstanding establishment at Jalan Sultan in Kuala Lumpur, continues to keep the legacy of Chinese pastries alive.

The exact founding year of Seong Ying Chai is not clearly documented, but it can be traced back to a business license issued in 1935. In its early years, it was a Shunde cuisine restaurant, famous as one of the “Four Greatest Restaurants of Petaling Street alongside Bunn Choon, Seng Kee, and Yook Woo Hin. All members of the staff underwent rigorous training to master various skills, from cooking and pastry-making to performing arts, ensuring that everyone is a capable all-rounder. After the restaurant closed down a few years ago, the third-generation heir, Lee Kim Fook (Leonard), decided to shift the focus to the production and cultural preservation of Chinese pastries. The three most popular categories being bridal pastries, mooncakes, and new year cookies.

Seong Ying Chai keenly promote bridal pastries due to their profound significance. In the traditional betrothal ceremony, the groom prepares six or twelve gifts to the bride’s family, bridal pastries occupy two of them. This serves two purposes: first, to express the groom’s gratitude to the bride’s parents for raising her; in the past they were transported by carrying poles or bullock carts, the larger the amount of pastries, the greater the sincerity. Second, the bride’s family distributes them to relatives and friends to announce the joyous occasion of the marriage. The bride’s family also prepares return gifts for the groom’s family: for the pair of large pastries featuring dragon and phoenix designs, one is kept by the bride’s family and one is gifted back to the groom’s family; half of the small boxed cookies for distributing among family and friends also given in return to the groom’s family.

Mooncakes are the signature product of Seong Ying Chai, especially during the Mid-Autumn Festival, when the Cantonese have the custom of moon worship. Mooncakes were originally offerings to the moon, later evolved into premium festive gifts. In addition to traditional Cantonese mooncakes, Seong Ying Chai was the first shop in Kuala Lumpur to introduce Hong Kong-style snow skin mooncakes. In the 1950s, the second generation (Leonard’s aunt) learned from a master in Hong Kong and then developed their own unique flavors that are still cherished today. Many longtime customers, even after moving away from Petaling Street, still make a special trip to buy them before the festival.

In addition to mooncakes, “Gong Zai Bing” (mooncake biscuits) are also popular during the Mid-Autumn Festival. Made from leftover mooncake dough and fillings, mooncake biscuits come in various shapes, from deities to animals, which are attractive to children. In the era when Kuala Lumpur’s economy had not yet flourished, the average family could not afford expensive mooncakes, while mooncake biscuits were relatively affordable. The handmade piglet pastries are put into bamboo cages and hung high from the shop’s beams, and customers must tiptoe to cut them down.

With modern development, the significance of Chinese pastries and associated customs has waned, and the values and functions of traditional festivals have gradually changed. Having rooted itself in Kuala Lumpur for nearly a century, Seong Ying Chai carries the taste memories of generations, conveying emotions and blessings through Chinese pastries while continuing a rich cultural legacy.

[Set of Six Gifts] Traditional betrothal ceremony  

• Dragon and Phoenix pastries
• Small cookies in boxes
• Rice crackers
• Ingredients for making tangyuan (sweet glutinous rice balls)
• Gold jewellry  
• Dragon and Phoenix candles

[Bridal pastries fun facts]

• The bride cannot eat her own bridal pastries, as this symbolizes consuming her own good fortune.  
• The filling of bridal pastries is significant: red date paste mixed with pine nuts symbolizes sweetness and convey a wish for fertility; salted egg yolks should not be included as they imply marrying due to pregnancy.

[Gong Zai Bing fun facts]  

• The piglet pastries in bamboo cages symbolizes prosperity, and are hung high in the shop, customers must tiptoe to cut them down, a gesture that carries a wish for continuous success.

有你 UNI Production
Producer : Daniel Lim
Cinematographer : Amelia Lim / Michael Lerk
Drone : Daniel Lim
Video Editor : Amelia Lim
Copywriter : Pua Hui Wen

COPYRIGHTS 2024 ECHINOIDEA SDN BHD

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Everything is still and quiet in the wee hours, except for a slight drizzle and gushes of cold breeze gently swaying the coconut trees. Upon driving into the narrow path among the coconut trees in the heart of Lunas, a few wooden houses are scattered around, of which only one is brightly lit. The kitchen is filled with steam, a world apart from the cold outside. A large pot of boiling water sits on top of the wood stove. A stainless steel perforated metal mesh encased in a wooden frame is placed across the pot, a pair of seemingly heat-resistant hands work deftly; the right hand kneads the half-cooked, thick rice batter through the sieve, while the left hand retrieves the cooked, snow-white rice noodles – Bee Tai Bak.

Bee Tai Bak is a term transliterated from the Hokkien dialect. It is a type of noodle that is round and slender, tapering to a fine point at the end. In the Minnan region, Bee Tai Bak is typically served as a sweet cold dish, while in Singapore and Malaysia, it is more commonly found as a savory hot dish, prepared either dry or in soup. The chewy and bouncy Bee Tai Bak is often tossed in a fragrant sauce or submerged in a delicious broth, accompanied by fish balls, dark sauce minced pork, barbecued pork in slices as well as chunks, with chili sauce adding an extra kick.

As the first rays of dawn illuminate the sky, customers begin to arrive, conscientiously parking their vehicles under the coconut trees to avoid obstructing others. Uncle Teh Guan Cheng and his wife Aunty Koh move from the kitchen inside the house to the stall in the back, busily serving bowl after bowl of Bee Tai Bak. Customers enjoy a hearty meal of steaming Rice Taimu in the soft morning light, plenishing energy to kick start the day. By 9:30 AM, the sunlight grows stronger, and those going to school or work have left, prompting Uncle Teh and his wife to close up.

Closing after merely three and a half hours of operation does not mean they can return to bed for extra sleep; instead, they seize the time to head out to purchase fresh groceries, preparing ingredients for the next day. Fresh pork needs to be marinated for several hours before being processed into dark sauce minced pork and barbecued pork. Barbecued pork is made from pork loin, which is the tenderest, best, and most expensive part of the pig. The chili sauce, which is free for customers to consume, is entirely handmade—from chopping the chili to simmering two large pots of aromatic sauce, each step is handled with delicate care.

This home-based Bee Tai Bak stall has stood in the same location for over 60 years without relocating. The previous owner, Mr Tan, ran it for 23 years, sourcing fish balls from Uncle Teh’s mother-in-law. Upon learning that Mr Tan planned to retire and sell the business, she suggested her son-in-law, who was a vegetable farmer, try his hand at it. After about six months of observation and research, Uncle Teh officially took over at the end of 1986, moving his family from Tasek Gelugor to operate this food stall in Lunas. Day in and day out, he and his wife work diligently, paying meticulous attention to each step from selecting and preparing ingredients to cutting and cooking, embodying the spirit of craftsmanship.

In this unassuming township, Uncle Teh and his wife embrace a leisurely lifestyle, living in simplicity while making each day busy and fulfilling. Before long, their young children are grown up and helping them out. The humble noodles from this village home under the coconut trees may one day succumb to the tide of development and eventually disappear, and now they seem closer to vanishing than ever.

有你 UNI Production
Producer : Daniel Lim
Cinematographer : Amelia Lim / Michael Lerk
Drone : Daniel Lim
Video Editor : Amelia Lim
Copywriter : Pua Hui Wen

COPYRIGHTS 2024 ECHINOIDEA SDN BHD

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